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Messages - stankonia

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: Whirlpool Problem with Pump!
« on: December 06, 2011, 08:37:49 AM »
Do you guys think if I were to put a similar filter on the recirculating dip tube it would prevent it from really creating a whirlpool??



2
Equipment and Software / Re: Whirlpool Problem with Pump!
« on: December 06, 2011, 08:36:29 AM »
Thanks for the help guys..I really appreciate it.  It sounds like I didn't get all of the air out of the pump.

PSUhomebrewer,

So what you do is open up the outflow BK valve, and outflow valve on the pump to get all the air out of the pump.  Then close the outflow valve on the pump and connect the hose that is going back to the kettle.  Turn the pump on while partially opening the outflow pump valve, AND partially opening the inflow valve on the kettle?  How long can the pump run with it's outflow valve closed, or is it kind of a simultaneous action of turning the pump on and slowly opening it's valve?


3
Equipment and Software / Whirlpool Problem with Pump!
« on: December 05, 2011, 09:31:40 PM »
A couple weeks ago I brewed for the first time on my new single tier, 3 vessel system. It was also my first time using the march pump.

The pump worked fine for me as far as transferring from HLT to MLT, and MLT to BK.

I brewed using all leaf hops without a bag for them. I used a SS scrubby on my dip tube to filter them. I've done this before with no problem when using gravity to drain.

I installed a second ball valve on my BK with a side pickup tube (The SS one from BargainFittings) with the idea to whirlpool for the last 5-10 minutes of the boil, and during cooling. The inlet of the 2nd valve is installed at the same level of the outlet valve..just to the side of it. However, it doesn't have anything filtering it.

When I had everything hooked up to get it stated and turned the pump on there was instantly nothing going through the pump. I think what happened is when I opened the inlet valve (before turning the pump on) it sucked up some hops and clogged the hose coming from the outflow side of the pump. Could it have been anything else? Here is basically what I did:

1. Open Outflow BK valve
2. Open Valve on Outflow of Pump
3. Open Inflow BK Valve
4. Turn ON the Pump


This is my first time using a pump, so let me know if that looks wrong..

From reading around it sounds like I can run the pump while having the valve on the outflow side closed. Is that correct? Assuming that, maybe what I should have done:

1. Open Outflow BK Valve & Open Valve on the Pump
2. THEN turn the pump on
3. Open Inflow BK Valve.

Would that prevent anything from getting sucked up the tube I'm using on the inside of the BK for the whirlpool??


I REALLY appreciate any help! I want to brew again this Sunday...but I really need to figure this out before I do.

4
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulation Jacket for MLT.
« on: November 20, 2011, 02:28:48 PM »
I live in Orlando.

Brewed today.  It held temps great.  Only lost 1* over the hour.  Checked at 30min and it was still spot on where I started.  Didn't have to fire-up the burner.

But it was also 80 degrees out today... :p

5
Equipment and Software / Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« on: November 18, 2011, 11:06:03 AM »
Bargain fittings has a nice copper pickup tube.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174

You can get everything you need from them.  Bulk head kit, and add a SS ball-valve for $11 (only $5 more than their brass valve)  Then the pickup tube will just screw into the coupling on the inside of the kettle. 

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=91


Don't be afraid of drilling.  Just get a step bit, go slow and use some kind of oil/lubricant.



I'm definitely not afraid of drilling.  It's a paranoid fear of not sealing that I get hung up on.   ;D

I tend to over think on things like this.

Thanks for the encouragement!!!  I'd love to stop siphoning.

Paul

Yeah I know what  you mean.  I had a tiny leak in mine when I first drilled it.  I just put on more teflon tape and rubber gaskets on both sides of the kettle and it stopped it.

To mention BargainFittings again (I'm not getting paid! just recently bought a bunch of stuff from them).

They have another bulkhead kit that is designed a little differently and is meant to seal up slightly over-sized drill holes.  It has a washer soldered onto the nipple and uses a flat gasket on the outside.  The standard bulkhead kit uses round gaskets with a locknut.

I recently ordered 4 of these for my system, and none of them have leaked.



It's $5 more than the standard kind, but that's worth it for peace of mind.

You could get this bulk head + SS Ball valve + copper pickup tube for $41..I'm not sure what you're looking to spend, but that's not a bad deal.  No more sanitizing the siphon..just hook up a hose to the valve and open it.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Adding ball valve to brew kettle
« on: November 17, 2011, 10:32:26 AM »
Bargain fittings has a nice copper pickup tube.

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=174

You can get everything you need from them.  Bulk head kit, and add a SS ball-valve for $11 (only $5 more than their brass valve)  Then the pickup tube will just screw into the coupling on the inside of the kettle. 

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=91


Don't be afraid of drilling.  Just get a step bit, go slow and use some kind of oil/lubricant.


7
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulation Jacket for MLT.
« on: November 16, 2011, 10:00:26 PM »
I'm going to brew on Sunday, so I'll let you guys know how well it holds the mash temp.


Cheers!

8
Equipment and Software / Insulation Jacket for MLT.
« on: November 16, 2011, 09:55:24 PM »
Just got done fashioning together an insulation jacket for my keggle MLT.

My system is a direct-fire recirculating mash, so that presented problems of how to insulate my keg.  I liked the idea of using reflectix, but couldn't have the flame going while it was on the keg.  I had used reflectix a couple times when doing all-grain BIAB, and it was a pain rolling it off and on when I needed to turn the flame on.

So, I went a bought a new roll today and came up with a plan to have 4 layers of reflectix insulating the MLT, while making it super-easy to remove when (hopefully IF) I need to take it off.

I appreciate any feedback and advice you guys have.  Also, I hope some of you guys find it helpful!

First thing I did was wrap the Reflectix around the keg 4 times and cut it.  Then I put some clamps on it to hold it in place so it could keep its shape when I slide it off the keg.



Now, this could be the final step, but with my fittings (outflow ball-valve, inflow ball-valve at the top, and a thermometer) I can't design it where I can simply slide it on and off.

So, where the beginning end, and ending part overlapped I poked holes, and bolted them together with fairly large washers on each side to help prevent the bolts from ripping through.  I put the flat part of the bolt on the inside, with the nut on the outside, and the bolts I got were just barely long enough.






After that, I went to the opposite side and cut all 4 layers straight down the middle..I could have used the same nuts and bolts set-up on this side to attach the layers together, but I opted for aluminum tape.



With the tape...




So now I have 4 layers all held together as once piece that can open up easily rather than unwrapping 16ft of this stuff. I held it together with some straps that are easily removed when I will need to turn the flame on.

 Here is what it looks like, along with a fitted cap I made for it. 










9
Kegging and Bottling / Re-Pitching Yeast on Bottling Day
« on: July 22, 2011, 11:18:19 AM »
This weekend I have a Brown Ale I'm going to bottle. I put it in a secondary a couple weeks ago to add vanilla beans, and cold crashed it when I had to leave town for the weekend and still hadn't gotten a Johnson controller.

So with being in secondary, and cold crashing I want to re-pitch some yeast just to be safe, but I had a couple questions. I used US-05 to ferment with.

How much should I re-pitch?

If I get US-05 I assume re-hydrating would be a must since to make sure it gets mixed in evenly with the beer.

To skip the re-hydrating step, would I be able to pitch a vile of liquid yeast, like WLP001?


Thanks!

10
Equipment and Software / Re: BeerSmith 2.0 reviews
« on: June 13, 2011, 05:25:08 PM »
I never got too in depth with 1.4.  Only used it for 1 recipe so far and I'm still doing extract so the calculations I need are limited.

But, BS 2 looks awesome, and I'm excited to start using it.

Also, the picture of the pint of beer that shows you the estimated SRM gets me pumped to brew!!  ;D

11
Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to bottle my first batch, I'm just going to leave it in the carboy for a few more days.  From what I understand, cold crashing helps clear up the beer by causing some particles that are still in suspension to drop to the bottom.

If I'm relying on bottle conditioning for carbonation, then will cold-crashing the beer cause some of the yeast still in suspension to drop and result in less effective carbonation in my bottles? 


Thanks!

Are you bottling out of the primary fermenter or secondary? You should still get plenty of yeast or try to suck up a little of the yeast-cake when transferring to the bottling bucket after cold crashing.

Carbonating in the bottle always leaves a bit of sediment. There's nothing wrong with that except you need to pour it in glasses before drinking.  Kinda defeats the concept of cold crashing.

For this particular beer I will be bottling out of the primary.  But I plan on using secondary fermentation for future beers which I will be bottle conditioning.

I understand, and don't mind, sediment from bottle conditioning.  I guess I thought that cold crashing helped clear up the beer in general, not necessarily just to get rid of yeast sediment. 

12
Kegging and Bottling / Cold Crashing Before Bottle Conditioning?
« on: May 22, 2011, 07:35:35 PM »
Hey guys,

I'm getting ready to bottle my first batch, I'm just going to leave it in the carboy for a few more days.  From what I understand, cold crashing helps clear up the beer by causing some particles that are still in suspension to drop to the bottom.

If I'm relying on bottle conditioning for carbonation, then will cold-crashing the beer cause some of the yeast still in suspension to drop and result in less effective carbonation in my bottles? 


Thanks!

13
Hey guys,

While my 1st batch is almost ready to bottle I'm looking around for ideas for my 2nd one.

I'm thinking about doing a stout or porter, and both extract kits call for a late addition (15 minutes left in the boil) of some of the liquid extract.  I was just curious as to what this does vs. boiling all of the extract for 60 minutes?  Does boiling the extract syrup different amount of times affect the taste and potential OG?


14
Kegging and Bottling / Bottle Conditioning in a 1 Gallon Growler?
« on: May 10, 2011, 10:35:49 PM »
Hey,

I was wondering if it is possible to achieve similar results when bottle conditioning in a 1gallon growler as compared to normal 12-22oz bottle conditioning using new caps and a bottle capper?  Will just having a screw-cap not work as well?

I should be able to go through a gallon when sharing with friends and family, so it would be nice to be able to bottle 1/5 of my batch in 1 bottle, but also, it would suck to screw up 1/5 of my batch at the same time too  ;D




15
Equipment and Software / Re: My Take at the DIY Fermentation Cooler
« on: May 10, 2011, 09:01:24 PM »
Looks great.  You might need some more frozen water bottles when you have something actively fermenting in there, but there's only one way to find out . . .

Yeah that is what I was thinking too.  I figure I'll throw at least 1, maybe 2 more frozen bottles in there when I use it for the first time. 

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