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Messages - DW

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Back Hopp"ENING"
« on: January 16, 2016, 09:26:49 AM »
I brewed my first brag got--OG 1.12, FG 1.018.  Used local honey and local hops.  Problem: after setting up and doing my mash I noticed one problem......the local hops were more than 2 YEARS OLD!!!  So I could have been more prepared, I realize that.  The final braggot needs more bitterness to mellow the sweetness. 
1. How can I do that?
2. Will Hop extract post boil give any bitterness, or will it only contribute aroma? 
3. Could I boil water and hops and add that back to the finished braggot?

Y'all are great. Always appreciate the help

2
Yeast and Fermentation / lalvin D47 for braggot
« on: December 30, 2015, 11:51:06 AM »
I've got a pack of D47 for a brag got.  OG is 1.12 and FG is 1.018.  Could I get by just rehydrating this one packet and pitching, or should I make a starter?  Or should I just pitch 2 packets?

3
Beer Recipes / Re: recipe formulation with nugget/cascade/
« on: October 27, 2015, 04:48:32 PM »
I appreciate all of the advice.  I guess the only way to figure it out is to do it and see what happens. 

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimenting with hops
« on: October 27, 2015, 04:42:55 PM »
I prefer to go the extract route for this because it is so much quicker. There's no mash, and a 15-minute boil is all you need. I'm brewing 4 single-hop batches later this week and I will be done in less time than a single all-grain batch.

Do you get adequate hop bitterness with only a 10minute boil?

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimenting with hops
« on: October 25, 2015, 09:08:19 AM »
Here's and easy way. On the full boil, bitter with Nugget. Late hop with the Cascade. After fermentation is complete, split into two 3 gallon carboys. Dry hop one with Nugget, the other with Cascade. Two ounce minimum for each. A lot of aroma and perceived flavor come from dry hopping. This should give you a good idea of what each hop has to offer. You could blend in the glass to get an idea of what the combination will produce. Not the perfect solution, but easier than splitting the boil.

Sounds like good advice to me!  Could I use just any old IPA recipe and substitute the hops with nugget/cascade (matching the IBUs, of course).  ----

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Experimenting with hops
« on: October 25, 2015, 07:24:44 AM »
Something I've wanted to do for a long time is to take a batch of wort and break it up into smaller quantities to test individual ingredients without having to make full batches for each ingredient.  I need some help.  I want to split up a batch 3 ways:
1.  Single Hop Nugget
2. Single Hop Cascade
3.  Both Nugget and Cascade

How does one split up a batch based on hops? 
1. Should I make a 6-7 gallon batch of wort then divide it out 3 ways before starting the boil?  I can't boil all three batches at once. 
2. Would it be ok to let some of it sit while I boil one batch at a time? 
3.  If I made 6 gallons and divided it into 2 gallon batches, would I need to still boil the same length of time (60minutes)?
4.  I made another post in the recipe section for a few additional questions....Thanks!!!!


7
Beer Recipes / recipe formulation with nugget/cascade/
« on: October 25, 2015, 07:15:19 AM »
Someone near me grows Nugget and Cascade hops, and he has offered to give me a good bit.  I would like to showcase these hops in a few IPA's.  I need a little help getting steered toward a recipe.  My ideal situation would be 3 beers, one with only Nugget, one with only cascade, and one with both. 

1. Would these hops make a good single hop IPA?
2. would they work together in a beer? 
3. For the cascade IPA, would I need to use a higher IBU hop for bittering (like the nugget), as I'm assuming I'd need to use a lot of hops since cascade is not generally really high IBU.  And the bittering hops don't contribute to flavor, right?
4.  These will be whole leaf hops, so will I need to use extra volume since whole leaf hops absorb more water, and if so how do I upsize the grain bill?

I want all three IPA's to be about equal bitterness, but to showcase the individual flavors (I'm assuming through flavor and aroma additions). 

8
All Grain Brewing / lower finishing gravity?
« on: May 08, 2015, 05:49:20 PM »
Why did my all grain belgian pale ale recipe ferment out to 1.00, when it was supposed to only go to 1.012?  Too much Oxygenation (I use pure O2--not easy to tell how much you're putting in)?---too much yeast (built a starter using 1400 mL starter)?.  ?????  I fermented at 152 degrees. 

9
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 20, 2015, 04:56:46 PM »
For now I think I'll just say screw it.  I guess I could walk up the creek as far as I could to see if anything looks suspicous.  Would Ward labs be able to tell me if there were pollutants?  From a practicality standpoint, taking water from my creek makes no sense.  From a novelty standpoint, it seems worthwhile. Kinda like how breweries/distilleries bragg about their own water source.  I could, in essence, makes a faulty boast that my beer was sourced from the crystal NC mountain streams, therefore it must taste delicous, etc. 

10
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 08:59:05 AM »
+1.  I'd be concerned about pollutant runoff, too.

Would pollutants be analyzed by Ward Labs?

11
Ingredients / Re: Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 08:58:14 AM »
Why do you want to use the water?  What will you gain by doing it?

Simply to say that I brewed water from my back yard creek.  Maybe it's not a worthwhile venture.

12
Ingredients / Using your back yard creek
« on: April 18, 2015, 05:49:31 AM »
I live in the Western NC mountains and have a nice small creek on the backside of my property.  What would it take to use that water for home brewing?  I assume i'd need to send a sample to a lab for analysis?  Plus, I would not be surprised if it had Giardia, etc in it.  Is it worth it to try and filter and make this into brewing water?  Seems kinda unique.

13
All Grain Brewing / Re: getting back into all grain
« on: April 18, 2015, 05:47:12 AM »
So, finally gonna do an all grain batch tomorrow:

Belgian Pale Ale
11.2lb belgian pilsner, 0.75lb caramunich, 0.25lb biscuit--kent goldings hops, ardennes yeast

1.  Took one Wyeast activator and put in 1,400mL of 1.40 wort on stir plate---recipe calls for 2 packets, did I make enough yeast?
2.  at 1.65qt/lb I would use 20.13 (round to 20) quarts = 5 gallons strike water?
3.  I am aiming for a mash temp of 152, so I would heat my water to around 165?  (preheat mash tun with some boiled water for 10minutes?) (how much wort would you expect to run off from the 5gallons?)
4.  adjust temp with boiled/iced water
5.  Per Denny: consider 1-2g of gypsum since I have soft water
6.  Let it sit for 60 minutes at the desired temp (any reason to check to see that all the grain is converted? if so, how do you do that? )
7.  Drain all of the wort out into boil kettle then wash grains with around 4gallons of water at around 165 and collect as much as needed---pray that the gravity is right
8.  I'm planning to use hops that are 6+ months old. They have been sealed and sitting in a freezer at around 34degrees.  Is it ok to use them being that old? They're unopened.  Did not want to pay more if they were still ok. Do I need to use more hops than the recipe calls for?

I really appreciate the help on this forum!  I have a lot of questions here---- :D

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Pale Ale
« on: April 12, 2015, 10:39:28 AM »
Would Ardennes be good?

Yeah, I've made it with Ardennes and liked it alot. 3787 is always good too, as is 1214 if you keep it cool.

What would be the ideal temp with ardennes, and would you keep it there the whole time or let is rise?

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Pale Ale
« on: April 12, 2015, 09:19:55 AM »
Would Ardennes be good?

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