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Messages - kramerog

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from SS BrewTech Chronical
« on: July 18, 2018, 07:48:08 PM »
I wouldn't worry about oxygenation or aeration from stirring right before bottling because the oxygen is eaten by the yeast and because you get more oxygen pickup when filling bottles then when stirring the fermenter.  A little stirring for gelatin shouldn't be problematic especially if you can purge the headspace of the fermenter with CO2 afterwards.

Having said that, if you are one of the people who is so scared of oxygenation that you put antioxidants in your mash then even a little stirring could be problematic for the most delicate beers.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from SS BrewTech Chronical
« on: July 18, 2018, 05:10:39 PM »
It seems possible for you to allow yeast to drop down to the bottom of the  central bottom pipe and for you to remove primed beer above this pipe.  So theoretically it would possible for you to add priming sugar and stir without picking up too much sediment.  You could add gelatin and stir a day or two before bottling to further promote sedimentation into the central pipe.  Just a wag/thought.  Post back later on what works and what doesn't.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Lubricant noob
« on: July 15, 2018, 09:09:37 PM »
As no one has answered, I'll take a shot; I began writing this before Bob.  I don't think there is a a hard and fast rule unless it is lubricate if you have a leak.  I don't like to lubricate everything as I think that provides a hiding spot for bacteria although I don't think I've had that problem.  Due to leaks, most of my lid gaskets are lubricated and some of my poppets are lubricated.  I don't think I've ever lubricated anything else.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging my first Amber Ale
« on: June 22, 2018, 08:23:38 PM »
You could turn off the pressure, shake the keg, turn the keg over and shake it again in order to fast carbonate so you can drink today.  Of course, this will shake up all the sediment.  If the pressure drops below your desired pressure, open and close the valve and shake again.   

Equipment and Software / Re: BeerSmith 3
« on: June 17, 2018, 02:53:02 AM »
The whirlpool hop additions and bitterness calculations are much better with a setting to set the temperature of whirlpool addition.  There is also a 'hop' addition labeled 'whirlpool pause' which can be added and set for the entire length of the whirlpool so that delayed and staggered additions will by properly expressed on the brew day sheet and the timer.  The model for whirlpool addition IBU calculations is improved, though still dubious IMHO.

Support for water mineral/salt additions are moved into the recipe and respond much better in the mash pH estimation.  Ditto with acid/acidulated malt additions.  There is still an issue with directly adding acids/acidulated malt/minerals & salts directly into the recipe not being accounted for in the water profile tab.

Yeast starter tab now supports 2-step yeast starters.

Volumes are now given for LME and other liquid additions.

Better cloud support and recipe cloud search from within the program.

I'm sure that I've missed some of the other minor alterations, but these are the big ones that are visible.
Thanks, the water profile thing might be what makes me hold off on upgrading.

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Equipment and Software / BeerSmith 3
« on: June 16, 2018, 08:16:17 PM »
I see that it is now out.  I see that it has better support for mead, wine and cider.  How is it better than BeerSmith2 for making beer? 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 manifolds, old regulator and my liufe
« on: June 15, 2018, 01:32:06 PM »
You could try carbonating a keg, then turning off the gas at the tank and disconnecting it from the keg.  If your beer doesn't pour the next day, the leak is at the keg.
A long time ago I saw somebody took a section of an old inner tube and fit it over the top of a keg so he could fill it with water and look for bubbles.  I thought that was pretty cool, but usually spraying with star san works well.
Yes, regulators can leak.

great ideas!  i don't understand tge innertube idea. it sounds nifty.
He cut a cross section of 6 or 7 inch wide inner tube and stretched it over the top of the keg, making a water tight bowl above the posts of the keg into which he could pour water, so that the top of the keg was under water.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Reusing RO wastewater.
« on: May 29, 2018, 04:47:23 PM »
Cooling water if the water is softened.  If not, the water may cause scaling from excessive calcium carbonate.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Reusing RO wastewater.
« on: May 29, 2018, 04:23:43 PM »
Sports drink?  No need to add salt!

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Questions about open fermentation
« on: May 29, 2018, 04:18:39 PM »
Some yeasts really benefit from open fermentation.  Some yeasts need more oxygen than can be absorbed by wort to be healthy, particularly some English yeast strains, which were traditionally open fermented.  Some yeasts are thought to be sensitive to high CO2 levels particularly DuPont saison yeasts.

Big beers can benefit from open fermentation.  Some people prefer closed fermentations and do a second injection of oxygen instead about 12-24 hours after pitching instead.

Hop Growing / Re: Hops on clay
« on: May 24, 2018, 01:40:49 PM »
Clay in and of itself shouldn't be a problem.  Plenty of people grow hops in Chicagoland.  But Chicagoland probably has more rain than Crescent City?  Find out from local folks what grows successfully in your area.  A raised bed is a good idea regardless otherwise the hops will want to spread all over the place.

Lacto can also form pellicle.

Absolutely do not dump without tasting first.  Even then if the contaminant is Brett, the flavor will change over time so you may get something "better."  Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder so you may hate it, you may love it. 

Check out this method I use.

Also, If you are kegging then I assume that you have a CO2 tank.  You can fill the keg with Sanitizer and then push it out with CO2 thus removing nearly all O2. 

I think this is what Big Monk is saying but I will put it in my words.  If you have some extra hose lying around you can attach some to your gas in attachment from the keg and run the line from there to the top of the fermenter (Red line in picture).  Do a standard gravity transfer through the liquid out line (Blue line in picture) of the keg and as the keg fills it will displace the CO2.  Run the CO2 line to the fermenter and you will fill the head space with mostly CO2.  If you have the means you can drill two holes in a stopper for the siphon and the CO2 from the keg line. 

I cannot seem to get the images to show so here is a link...
What Adam said works really well.

Did you do a full boil, e.g., boiled all the wort or did you boil some of the wort and diluted in the fermenter?

One issue is that the hops in the middle of the boil are somewhat wasted in that they don't provide a lot of bitterness or flavor relative to hops added earlier or later.  A better practice is to add all the flavor hops/lupulin after turning off the heat on the boil and let the hops/lupulin steep for 20-60 minutes. 

Ingredients / Re: making invert sugar
« on: May 08, 2018, 03:48:23 PM »
The Maillard reactions for invert sugar needs proteins/amino acids so some kind of raw cane sugar is necessary.

Here is a shortcut: dissolve 2 pounds of sugar in a pint of water.  The first pound can be easily dissolved before the boil and the second once the boil has started.  Ron's approach requires boiling out 1 lb of excess water to hit the target temperature, which takes some time.  The acid can also be added with the first pound of sugar so that inversion can get underway before the boil. 

Invert no. 1 and 2 can be made fairly easily with enough time.  I've had no success getting to invert no. 3 following Ron's info.  I have seen some information that suggests the invert should be neutralized after invert no. 1 is achieved.  I don't brew enough with invert sugar to have gotten around to figuring out the best way to neutralize the invert.


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