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Messages - kramerog

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 19, 2017, 06:53:07 PM »
True, but shy of making invert from scratch it seemed the best option at the time. Unfermentables in invert would convince me to find some way to buy real invert, or make my own.
If you are making invert no. 3, I think you have to neutralize the acid after inversion and to continue heating until the desired color is achieved.  I haven't had success with heating without neutralization. Let me know what your friend thinks.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 19, 2017, 06:43:05 PM »
Also true dark invert syrups don't ferment dry. 

That's the other variable that I've been wondering about. I've been using Lyle's Golden Syrup, cut with blackstrap molasses as per the unholy mess approximations.

A friend from work makes his own candi and invert syrups for brewing...I may try his methods and see how they work.
The unholymess approximations don't make sense to me.  Nobody says if you are short on caramel 60, blend caramel 20 and 120.

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Factors controlling attentuation
« on: January 19, 2017, 06:27:26 PM »
When doing Ron's recipes, twice now, I mash for 60 minutes at the suggested temp and they fall into the ballpark.  Also true dark invert syrups don't ferment dry. 

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hazy Helles
« on: January 18, 2017, 05:56:19 PM »
Some experimentation on NE IPAs indicates that chlorides at 100+ ppm prevents some yeast from dropping out.  It is unclear what yeast strains are affected.   

The Pub / Re: IPA Ginger Boiler Maker
« on: January 18, 2017, 04:28:26 PM »
IPA & gin has not done it for me.

All Grain Brewing / Re: 2 vessel brewing - sparge questions
« on: January 18, 2017, 03:18:04 PM »
I don't see any draining step before steps 7 and 8, so you aren't doing a sparge.

Two approaches to sparging, drain the mash tun before sparging and you are batch sparging.  Simultaneous draining and sparging, you are fly sparging.

In step 7, you should vorlauf by recirculating wort from the mash drain top back to the top of the mash tun.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Mash out questions
« on: January 18, 2017, 11:15:56 AM »
Starting with a temp of 148 F and mashing for 90 minutes I would think that you would already have a wort with high apparent attention and it would be too late to retain much residual extract i.e. Elvis has already left the building. Comments please!

Mashing out tends to produce a slightly higher gravity  (~2% boost) as not all the starch gelatinizes at standard single infusion mash temperatures.  If you gradually increase mash temp to 168 F, you don't need to rest at 168.  Similarly, if you increase wort temperature to 168 F, you don't need to rest afterwards.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Taste Test
« on: January 18, 2017, 10:58:50 AM »

Club Leadership & Organization / Re: Filing you club's taxes
« on: January 12, 2017, 02:22:24 PM »
I just wanted to add the following information:
When you call to get your self-declared* tax exempt 501(c)(7) status recognized by the IRS, you will likely need the following info to provide to your friendly tax person (and I sincerely mean friendly):

1. Your club's purpose from your bylaws or similar.  If you don't have one, it can be pleasure and recreation involving homebrewing of beer
2.  Your club's corporate form.  In Illinois, there are not-for-profit corporations.
3. Primary source of money for club.  Typical allowable sources are membership dues, meeting dues, etc. 
4. Club's fiscal year.  I recommend the calendar year.
5. Club's annual revenues.  Revenues over $50,000/yr probably means that your are not eligible to be  self-declared.
6.  Your name and position in club, i.e., you have to be an officer of the club or an attorney for the club.

*Self-declared means that you don't have to file form 1024 and the $400 fee and also means that you won't get the IRS's formal letter of recognition.  FOrm 1024 requires the same info.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: International presence at HombrewCon
« on: January 11, 2017, 12:37:42 PM »
What is being proposed is a contract to buy beer among other things, which is illegal when the beer is homebrew.

Beer Recipes / Re: brett beer
« on: January 09, 2017, 07:45:11 AM »
20-22C is good.  Could ramp up later if you want to dry out the beer.  Frankly Frank, there is some leeway  on the temp here

Beer Recipes / Re: brett beer
« on: January 08, 2017, 04:56:12 PM »
That recipe shows a generally correct approach to making an all-Brett beer.  However, I would not crash cool a Brett starter because the Brett takes a really long time to get going again.  The better approach is to pitch the entire starter. Also it isn't necessary to ferment in the 80s.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Safale US 05 fermentation length
« on: January 06, 2017, 10:10:56 AM »
Whether it mostly drops out or you should cold crash depends, I think, on the beer temperature.  I ferment 66-70 F generally.  If keggin, I cold crash, add gelatin and then give it a few days for the yeast to drop out as much as possible. I don't cold crash if bottling, but I get a lot of sediment with US-05.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: NEIPA Fermentation Stall
« on: January 04, 2017, 08:10:02 AM »
I can't say I've heard of too much hops causing a fermentation to stall out.  I don't think that's a "thing."

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: New England IPA Extract Recipe
« on: January 03, 2017, 12:38:00 PM »
Check out for lots of info on NEIPAs.  You can use any "oily" and fruity hops you like.   The specialty grains in NEIPAs, mostly flaked oats (oatmeal) or flaked wheat, have to be mashed.  You can substitute malt extract instead.  Because malt extract is an unknown in terms of its mineral composition, I recommend  staying below 100 ppm of chloride and 100 ppm sulfate rather than the higher concentrations used by Scott Janish.

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