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Messages - nppeders

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1
Zymurgy / Re: 2010 Sept./Oct. - Batch Sparging
« on: August 26, 2010, 09:29:43 AM »
Right.  My sparge is where it gets close, because the grain has already absorbed the strike water during the mash.   

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Zymurgy / Re: 2010 Sept./Oct. - Batch Sparging
« on: August 26, 2010, 09:27:17 AM »
Sorry for hijacking your thread by the way.  I appreciate your help....you rock!

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Zymurgy / Re: 2010 Sept./Oct. - Batch Sparging
« on: August 26, 2010, 09:24:00 AM »
HMMM....I think I need more coffee or something to get my brain juices flowing.   It seems to me that batch size would matter because you'd use almost twice as much strike and sparge water for a 10 gallon versus 5 gallon batch.  Maybe I'm just being dumb though.

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Zymurgy / Re: 2010 Sept./Oct. - Batch Sparging
« on: August 26, 2010, 09:04:46 AM »
Thanks Denny!

According to that calculator I think I can make it to 1.060.   Is that calculator set up for 5 gallon batch's though.  That's what I can't tell with that calculator.   I'm thinking trial and error on the first one, and double sparge if I have too!   I really wanna make a 10 gallon batch of the GF Hop Head Red Clone I brewed earlier in the year!   

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Zymurgy / Re: 2010 Sept./Oct. - Batch Sparging
« on: August 26, 2010, 08:08:52 AM »
Hey Denny,

I have a question for you.  I use a 54 quart igloo cooler to batch sparge and am just getting into 10 gallon batch's.   I can't for the life of me figure out what is the biggest beer I can do with this system.  I'd like to be able to do a beer at 1.060 as like you say, life starts at 60!   Any idea on how big a beer I can do on this system at 70% efficiency?   I'm thinking that at the least, I'll give it a try, and if I don't reach 12+ gallons after Mash and Sparge I can always sparge again with a few extra gallons.  Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Nick
www.dankbrewingcompany.blogspot.com

6
I'd say, if you do re-pitch, use the same yeast that you used for your primary/secondary fermentation.  I had the same question for my first lager that I'd had lagering for 6 weeks.   I brewed it with fresh MN Snow for my water source so I didn't want to mess it up during bottling.   I ended up using nottingham dry yeast per my LHBS's suggestion.   I wish I would've used Bohemian Lager yeast.  I think that the nottingham gave it a fruity flavor that wasn't present before bottling.  Still a tasty beer, but my suggestion is, don't re-pitch with yeast.  If you do, use the same yeast as in primary/secondary!

Cheers...and please anyone correct me if I'm off base.

7
I'd definitely go with a Saison using the Wyeast French Saison yeast.  It's readily available,  last year I used it at around 78 degrees and it fermented out in a week and was an amazingly flavorful summer beer.  This year, I did an split batch experiment with French Saison yeast vs. Safbrew T-58.   At 68 degrees, (on the low end), the French Saison yeast came down from 1.050 to 1.002!  And the Safbrew T-58 came down to 1.008.   That French Saison yeast gives you an amazing dry finish everytime with a complex fruity flavor profile, and a slick smooth mouthfeel!   

Wyeast French Saison is great at normal temperatures, but is amazing at 78-80+!!!!   Good luck!

8
You've all confirmed what I was thinking.   It didn't taste contaminated when I sampled it yesterday and tasted fine, although it was very cloudy.   I'm sure that it will clarify after a few more weeks.  I tell myself, relax, throw a couple of yeasts in there and see what happens, then I freak out.    My next big step is making starters.  I have everything I need to do it, now I just need to buckle down and make one.  It just makes it tough cause you have to plan ahead a couple days.   My other big step will be controlled temperature fermentations.   Yeast is a Beast!

Thanks,

Nick

9
Okay, so I feel like kindof an amatuer for even having to ask this, but I'm having an issue with a current beer that I'm 'trying' to make.   It was my third ever all-grain batch and I think I got a little cocky or something cause I wasn't paying attention to the fundamentals.   I ended up forgetting to take a gravity reading before pitching.   I suppose that was my first mistake because it's kinda hard to tell what is going on in a brew if you don't know where it started.   I had 15 lbs of grain in a 5 gallon batch and I was thinking that it would start out around 1.065 or so depending on my effeciency.   Anyways, here's the second problem.   I ended up getting Wyeast 1056, and I also had a pack of Munton's dry yeast sitting around.   I smacked the Wyeast pack only about 1/2 hour before pitching when the wort was around 75 degrees.  I also threw in the dry yeast as well without re-hydrating.  That's three things that I did wrong.    I remember checking the day after pitching and the air lock seemed to be bubbling, but just a little bit.  I was expecting vigorous fermentation though.   Just three days after pitching though the bubbles completely stopped.  I did a gravity reading last night and it was at 1.015 so I'm thinking that I just missed the fermentation and that if I let it sit, it will be a nice IPA.   When checking my gravity though, I noticed that there wasn't much krausen at the top of the wort (beer) line like there normally is.   Wondering maybe if I had contamination, or if maybe I didn't convert the sugars properly.   The wort seemed nice and sticky from the pitcher I used for the vorloff.  Maybe I'm just freakin out and nothing is wrong at all.   

Has anyone pitched a beer with both Liquid and Munton's dry yeast?  and how has that effected your beer and fermentation?

Here are the things I did wrong.
1. didn't take a gravity reading after the boil before pitching yeast.
2. Didn't smack the pack early enough on the 1056
3. Also used Munton's dry yeast, and didn't rehydrate.
4. Boiled Irish Moss for only 5-10 minutes, and not the recommended 15 minutes.


Shed some light on this if at all possible.

Grazie,

Nick

10
Kegging and Bottling / Handmade Growler question...
« on: January 28, 2010, 10:21:11 AM »
I bought a handmade growler from a college friend who lives out in Montana.   He makes extremely cool handmade Growlers and I was wondering about if anyone else has something like this and what the application would be.

http://www.carlburgpottery.com/

Obviously it's really cool to have if you keg your beer and want to bring some of your homebrew over to a friends house for sampling and general consumption.  (I just started kegging and my first kegged beer is still in the process of force carbonating).  I'm assuming it'll be just fine for quick consumption.

Another question is this.  I tried to bottle condition my second ever homebrew in this handmade growler and for some reason it didn't carbonate at all, while my bottles had.   I'm wondering if it's too porous to hold the CO2 for a long time?  It'd be cool to bottle condition in my Growler.   

Let me know your thoughts.

Nick

Let me know if you have any experience with this type of Growler.

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