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Messages - duboman

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1
All Grain Brewing / Re: Frustrated beyond belief
« on: July 02, 2015, 02:35:14 PM »
Could be the yeast, are you checking viability and making starters for each beer  with Mr. Malty or Yeast calc.? If the beers are properly fermenting and attenuating and you are not getting hot fusels or other fermentation related issues I'm not sold on it being the yeast.

OTOH, if your supplier is selling you old malt and less than fresh, improperly stored ingredients I would be concerned.

BTW you didn't mention if you were brewing extract or AG, I assumed AG since you have been brewing a long time but descriptors of muddy and heavy have been used when discussing extract batches with less than ideal fresh extract.... liquid specifically but dry as well.

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: Frustrated beyond belief
« on: July 02, 2015, 02:05:01 PM »
Muddy and heavy are pretty difficult descriptors to pin down to one variable going wrong but I would look specifically at two items: water source and ingredients-specifically how fresh they are.

Have you tried to start with 100% R/O water with calculated additions via brun' water? Have you changed suppliers of your ingredients?

I'd start with one of these first.

3
I'd assume are boil sour since it states boiled for your pleasure:) sounds like a good base for a Gose or Berliner type beer

4
Classifieds / Re: Equipment wanted
« on: June 30, 2015, 03:39:11 PM »
I'm in the process of rebuilding my brewery. I have most of the big things covered, but need some little odds and ends. Figure before I run out and buy new I would check here and see if any of you have some extra stuff on hand you'd like to make a few bucks off of.
 I'm needing all the little things... hydrometer, theif, capper, racking cane. All the little stuff. If you have anything lying around you think I might need let me know and shoot me a price.
 Much appreciaed!!
The stuff you are looking for is all pretty inexpensive, if its not a local pick up the shipping alone might cost the same as the cost of the stuff new, just sayin' ;)

5
Tried and true bottling: use a priming calculator and weigh out the sugar to the gram based on the finished volume of beer. Boil 1 cup water and stir in sugar to dissolve. Allow to cool and add to bottling bucket. Rack finished beer into bucket and the swirling action will mix. Use a bottling wand to fill cleaned and sanitized bottles and cap. Leave bottles to sit for two weeks at 70-80oF, place in fridge for a few days and enjoy.

For the bottles, if you thoroughly rinse each bottle after use with hot water, allow to dry and store safe all you have to do is sanitize prior to bottling. I suggest a Vinator and a bottle tree to make this process quite easy on bottling day.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: classification for beer comp
« on: June 29, 2015, 06:05:29 PM »
If the lime zest and lemon grass is not predominant it might be passed off as the hops so I'd enter that in the blonde category, the other I'd enter in the SFH category. The American wheat you can enter as an American wheat:)

7
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Anti foam and dry yeast
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:04:20 PM »
Thanks for the explanation, so in my process I rehydrate my dry yeast and aerate the wort with an aquarium pump for about 15 minutes while the CFC fills the primary. Are you saying that the aeration prior to pitching the rehydrated yeast is not necessary and counter productive?

Aeration when pitching dry yeast is not as critical as when pitching a liquid culture.  Whether or not it is detrimental depends on if the culture scrubs the O2 from the wort, which it more than likely does during the exponential phase.  What are your apparent attenuation levels?
Off the top of my head I can't be exact but I can tell you that I've not had any issues achieving my final gravities in the process I use so I'll assume I'm in good shape:)

8
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Anti foam and dry yeast
« on: June 29, 2015, 12:18:23 PM »
Yes, yeast require O2 through the growth phase

Actually, dry yeast needs nowhere near as much dissolved O2 as liquid yeast. The reason being is that dry yeast is propagated aerobically in a bioreactor.  Propagation in bioreactor allows the glucose content in the medium to be held in a steady state below the Crabtree threshold of 0.3% glucose weigh by volume.   The result is that all growth is via the respirative metabolic pathway.  Propagation via the respirative metabolic pathway results in yeast cells with fully charged ergosterol and unsaturated fatty acid (UFA) reserves (it is also over an order of magnitude more efficient).

All reproduction in batch-based liquid yeast propagation and beer fermentation is fermentative because the glucose level is above the Crabtree threshold.  What yeast cells do when O2 is available is shunt it along with a small amount of carbon (sugar is carbon bound to water) to the respirative metabolic pathway for the production of ergosterol and UFAs.

With a batch propagated liquid culture, initial O2 demands are based the point in the process where the cells are harvested.  Pitching a culture when it reaches high krausen places a lower O2 load on the wort because the cells still have ergosterol and UFA reserves.  Waiting until a culture reaches quiescence (i.e., waiting until it ferments out), increases initial O2 requirements because the mother cells that were alive while O2 was still in solution share their ergosterol and UFA reserves with all of their daughter cells.  Allowing culture to proceed beyond high krausen results unnecessary ergosterol and UFA depletion. Reproduction after the end of the exponential phase is for replacement only.
Thanks for the explanation, so in my process I rehydrate my dry yeast and aerate the wort with an aquarium pump for about 15 minutes while the CFC fills the primary. Are you saying that the aeration prior to pitching the rehydrated yeast is not necessary and counter productive?

9
Beer Recipes / Re: Comments and Suggestions for Gose
« on: June 28, 2015, 04:44:54 PM »
Your process is exactly the one one I use, can't speak of the lacto blend you're using as I use the 5335.  2-3 days at 90 is perfect.

+1 on WY1007, great yeast and tolerates the low pH and as for salt, I've used up to 22g and got comments of a bit too salty and 15g got perhaps a bit more salt......  I use sea salt and have found that 17-18g is pretty good in a 5 gallon batch. I add the salt at 10 minutes left in the boil.

As for the malt I'm at 60-40 malt to wheat and mash at 152, last batch scored a 40. I've got an entry coming in a couple weeks with another batch so my hopes are high again!

Thanks.

I read your Gose threads and then also got some feedback from porkchop on NB forums and read everything else I could find. Your process seemed repeatable plus the bugs will only be in one of my fermenters, which is appealing as I'm still nervous about taking my first step into sours.

Sounds like I'm close on the salt. The Gose's that I've enjoyed the most you could barely tell had salt in them. I've had a few that were really salty, but that's not what I'm going for.

For some reason, I'm not sure that coriander was detectable in any that I've tried. How much do you use and how detectable is it?
I use 3g of finely crushed fresh coriander seeds added at 10 minutes, not completely noticeable but you can just tell its present. Let us know how you're turns out!

10
Beer Recipes / Re: Comments and Suggestions for Gose
« on: June 28, 2015, 04:42:21 PM »
I've gotten to the point that I'm only using hops for dry hopping my sour beers. Some say try to keep the IBUs at 5 or less, and at that point I think "why bother at all?" Just a thought. If we are lowering hops that much because we want our lacto to kick butt, why use them at all? In a firmly soured beer I dont miss them. Then if you want some hop flavor/aroma just dry hop. Just an opinion.

Interesting point Jim.  I know that for the last straight lambic I brewed, I did not add any hops whatsoever and that beer turned out fantastic picking up a medal as both a straight lambic (3rd) and as a raspberry lambic (1st) in the same competition this past spring.

 
As for the malt I'm at 60-40 malt to wheat and mash at 152, last batch scored a 40. I've got an entry coming in a couple weeks with another batch so my hopes are high again!

Wow, that is a great score for a traditional gose.  I have always struggled when entering those in comps as some judges just don't understand the style very well.  Hopefully the new 2015 guidelines will change that.
I was quite pleased! Second place medal. The first time I ever brewed it didn't fair well but I sent the score sheet to a nationally ranked judge that really left great feedback and got a lot more insight for the second batch which obviously helped a LOT!

11
Howdy and cool labels!

12
Beer Recipes / Re: Comments and Suggestions for Gose
« on: June 28, 2015, 03:49:15 PM »
Your process is exactly the one one I use, can't speak of the lacto blend you're using as I use the 5335.  2-3 days at 90 is perfect.

+1 on WY1007, great yeast and tolerates the low pH and as for salt, I've used up to 22g and got comments of a bit too salty and 15g got perhaps a bit more salt......  I use sea salt and have found that 17-18g is pretty good in a 5 gallon batch. I add the salt at 10 minutes left in the boil.

As for the malt I'm at 60-40 malt to wheat and mash at 152, last batch scored a 40. I've got an entry coming in a couple weeks with another batch so my hopes are high again!

13
All Grain Brewing / Re: cloudy wort after boil from hops
« on: June 25, 2015, 02:02:06 PM »
+1 on getting a whirlpool going at flame out to settle the trub in a center cone in the kettle. You can also make a hop spider for your additions and also, if not already using Irish Moss you can do that as well.

All that being said, as Jon mentioned, the hops will settle out in the primary during fermentation and you can also cold crash your beer once it's done to help it clear nicely as well.

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Souring old home brew
« on: June 24, 2015, 06:03:47 PM »
I say use them for cooking, maybe a batch of BBQ sauce too!

15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Star san foam
« on: June 23, 2015, 06:39:11 PM »
Bottling or kegging I've never had issue with the foam, "don't fear the foam"

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