Your Ranco will either heat (H1) or cool (C1).
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Thanks a lot for the info.
Now bottle conditioning: Maple Brown Ale, Maple Brown Ale with Coffee.
What would work good with an Oatmeal Stout in secondary besides coffee that won't effect my FG too much?
Cinnamon sticks, Vanilla Beans, Cocoa Nibs?
Added after crashing can work out assuming you force carb.
Does it dissolve all the way if the beer is cold?
I know there's been data that suggests homebrewing is on the decline and I read feedback that suggests a lot of homebrewers find they have too much beer to consume just by themselves, i figured maybe this could be another benefit as you could meet up with other users and/or just get your name out there to other users who may like your batches and want them on a consistent basis.
Question is:1. The volume of your boiling wort should be plenty to keep any slight heat loss from circulation, from killing your boil. Dial the valve off of the chiller back to a very slow flow. All you need to sanitize the chiller and pump is heat, not a lot of flow.
1. I'm worried that running boiling wort through my pump, the CFC, and back will dissipate so much heat that I will have a hard time keeping the boil up. I do use natural gas though. Does anyone do this and have any experience?
2. I often use a large amount of pellet hops especially in whirlpool. I usually just throw the hops right into the kettle and do not use a spider or bag. Has anyone had any major problems with the CFC clogging?
3. Any other better ideas for my system or anyone have a great way to do all this?
For the kegs that matter to me, I tare the empty weight (~8lbs) then weigh the keg and calculate the mass, and hence volume of beer via the FG. #sciencegeek