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Messages - AmandaK

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1
Ingredients / Re: Best way to reduce Ph
« on: July 27, 2015, 11:08:29 AM »
Is this a newer technique? Do/did Koln brewers add saurmalt to their Kolsch? According to Bruin water's adjustment summary, their water is way alkaline and needs the pH lowered. Unless i am interpreting wrong.
Posted in another thread, but if no one on this one saw it.

http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/SteveHolle_GermanBrewing.pdf

Good to see Steve referenced. :) He's a great resource to the KC area. We had him be part of a "lager panel" at one of our meetings last year. I wish I would have recorded it.

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!
« on: July 25, 2015, 09:46:24 AM »
I'm my worst critic. Luckily I've been getting better at brewing, so my own complaints are becoming less frequent.

I'm much the same !
Here here!! :D

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!
« on: July 25, 2015, 09:25:27 AM »



Crystal clear, looks to have good head retention. Pretty!

How do you like it?

I like it enough to use this as my base German Pils recipe for the foreseeable future, which is saying a lot for me. I'm my worst critic. Luckily I've been getting better at brewing, so my own complaints are becoming less frequent.


4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear Beer!
« on: July 24, 2015, 07:29:18 PM »
I have to revive the clear beer thread. German Pils, 3 weeks in the keg. Just yesterday it was a touch hazy. Today I can read a book through it. :D


5
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pilsner Recipe/Procedure Advice
« on: July 23, 2015, 05:03:28 PM »
It's German Pilsner time!!! :D


6
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pilsner Recipe/Procedure Advice
« on: July 23, 2015, 02:20:07 PM »
I will attach some photos for my validity, but as always YMMV, and this is only what I practice/believe and am in no way shape or form trying to convert you to my methods.

Alright. I want a sight glass on the Sabco!  8)

FWIW, our beers are coming out similar, with very little crap going into the kettle. I believe this is more of a function of RIMS than pH though (since our pHs are similar in the kettle).

Maibock:


Pils, Maibock, Vienna after primary fermentation:


I'll have to take a picture of the GP I'm going to drink after work for the frothy head.  8)

7
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pilsner Recipe/Procedure Advice
« on: July 23, 2015, 09:15:01 AM »
Well personally I target 5.5 for mash, and 5.2 for boil, but thats another story. 8)

Can I ask why?

8
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pilsner Recipe/Procedure Advice
« on: July 23, 2015, 08:14:59 AM »
I switched to Yellow Dry on the next two GPs and won't change it. I had a measured pH of 5.3. It's not minerally or harsh. The IBUs stick out a whole lot more even though the recipe I'm running with now has 40 IBUs, only a 5 IBU increase (which should be fairly unnoticeable). It has that perfect balance of bitterness, crisp finish, and grainy-cracker-light toast accent that I really like. Now the only thing I have to work on is which hops I like. :)

I like yellow bitter the best for GP too,Amanda. With proper pH, it's crisp, not minerally and has the dry character I like in GP.
All this talk about GP has me thirsty! Is it time to home yet and enjoy one on the deck? :)

9
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pilsner Recipe/Procedure Advice
« on: July 23, 2015, 08:06:46 AM »
For water, I am using Brun Water and utilize "yellow bitter" and it has me adding about 2.5 g of citric or lactic which is new for me.  It typically doesn't have me add any acidity.  It does have me adding a total 4 g gypsum.  Giving me a estimated mash pH of 5.7. 

A mash pH that high is not likely to be pleasing. I find that pale lagers really need to have a lower mash pH to help them be crisp. I hypothesize that this is due to lager yeast not being that much of acid producers and they tend to have a final beer pH a few tenths higher than ales. I have found that I need to increase the mash pH a bit when brewing ales to keep them from being too crisp or tart.

With respect to the acid used in brewing, only consider lactic acid in German beer brewing. It is an underlying nuance in all German beers and it is preferred over citric since it's flavor is more neutral.

I'm surprised to see so many using the Yellow Dry profile in a GP, but it does have a similar balance as Jever water. My only concern is that the Yellow Dry includes a bit more sulfate and chloride than the Jever profile. For those using Yellow Dry in a GP, is it more minerally? I like the light minerally character of Jever Pils. I suppose that it might get better at a little higher level. I have only used the Yellow Balanced profile in GP.

I used Yellow Balanced on the first GP I brewed and it came out a touch to flabby for my idea of what my GP should be. The finish lingered just a bit too long on the back palate, with a bit of grainy cracker that lingered before turning flabby. I also bittered it to 35 IBUs, but it seemed much less than that - seemed more like a 25-30 IBU beer.

I switched to Yellow Dry on the next two GPs and won't change it. I had a measured pH of 5.3. It's not minerally or harsh. The IBUs stick out a whole lot more even though the recipe I'm running with now has 40 IBUs, only a 5 IBU increase (which should be fairly unnoticeable). It has that perfect balance of bitterness, crisp finish, and grainy-cracker-light toast accent that I really like. Now the only thing I have to work on is which hops I like. :)

10
Beer Recipes / Re: German Pilsner Recipe/Procedure Advice
« on: July 22, 2015, 05:00:12 AM »
I'll chime in. I'm working on nailing the German Pilsner now. I've done a few variations with Avangard Pils, Best Pils, single temp mash, Hochkurz step mash, balanced water profile, yellow dry/bitter water profile, Hallertauer, Saphir, and Vanguard hops, and two yeasts - WY2124 & WY2308.

I personally like the Best Pils/Hochkurz step 145 for 45', 158 for 30', 168 for 10' mash/bitter with Herkules flavor & aroma hops of Vanguard (but may go back to Saphir on the next one)/WY2124/yellow dry water profile. OG: 1.045, FG: 1.011.

1) Skip the protein rest.  It doesn't help anything at all and will likely destroy body and head retention.  Not needed with 21st century malts.  Plus skipping it will make your mash schedule way simpler.
 
Agreed.

2) When gravity hits half of the OG (e.g., 1.060 turns to 1.030), then it's time to start the D rest.  No need for ramp up, just get it in the 60s and keep it there for 3 days.  You can keep the temperature up there even longer, for a week or longer if you want, with no ill effects.  It just helps the yeast finish the job and clean up after themselves, which includes diacetyl, sulfur, acetaldehyde, or other "green beer" characteristics.
 
This is similar to what I do. Start at 48F, hold at 50F for 5ish days, start the ramp up (slowly for me) to the mid 60s. Confirm terminal gravity & absence of green apple/butter, then crash down to 34F. Rack when clear.

3) What's your water going to look like?  For this style, I would recommend jacking up both sulfate and chloride to enhance both bitterness and malt.  If you're not sure how much to use, start with a teaspoon of each and see how you like the result.  Otherwise you can use software to nail the salt additions appropriate for the style.

Agreed. If you're into using Brunwater - I find the "yellow dry" or "yellow bitter" to be just about perfect.

5) Personal opinion: I don't think the late Hallertau additions will do as much for you as people think.  In my experience, Hallertau (and any noble hops) taste better the LONGER they are boiled, not shorter.  Others might not agree with me and that's fine.  If nothing else, consider the idea of using Hallertau and/or Perle for all your bittering, and skip the Magnum, if you want lots of noble hop flavor.  I promise you, the noble hop flavors come through loud and clear even with just a single 60-minute addition and no later "flavor" additions.  In theory this might be due to the lower alpha acid, which would require that you use a higher quantity of the hops to get the IBUs you want... and the noble flavor has no trouble hanging around for the entire boil and fermentation.  You can also think about it this way... for a thousand years, breweries never boiled hops for any less than 30 minutes, and more often it was for hours.  Late hopping is a 20th century concept.  You want to brew a traditional German lager?  Then brew as the Germans do.


As a German lover... I hate to agree with this, but I do. Hallertauer just doesn't seem right when it's used as a later addition. It's probably due to the freshness of hops we can get from those regions. As such, I've started using American versions of German Noble hops.

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: AHA TV
« on: July 16, 2015, 10:22:14 AM »
Neat! I saw them filming during Final Round judging and was wondering about what was going on. I'm in the "near background" of one of the shots.  8) 2 seconds of fame!!  ;D

12
Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning Blowoff Tubes
« on: July 14, 2015, 12:39:14 PM »
Another option I'm looking into is Fermcap-S. How effective is it?

Very.

Wouldn't it still be prudent to still have a backup blowoff tube setup?

Sure, for things like WY3068 or something. Otherwise, no.

13
Other Fermentables / Re: Thinking about trying Mead
« on: July 13, 2015, 08:09:56 AM »
Can I suggest Piatz's new book? The Complete Guide to Making Mead: The Ingredients, Equipment, Processes, and Recipes for Crafting Honey Wine. In talking with Ken Schramm at NHC he recommended it as a new version of his book. Reading through it now...
Let us know what you think.

Have it, read it in 2 hours. Good reference material and a good update to Schramm (with pictures to boot!).

14
The Pub / Re: Simplified BJCP Score Sheet
« on: July 04, 2015, 05:03:19 PM »
Wait. Are we arguing over an April Fools joke?
Sadly yes...
Haha. Okay, I was a bit confused! :)

15
The Pub / Re: Simplified BJCP Score Sheet
« on: July 04, 2015, 04:54:35 PM »
Wait. Are we arguing over an April Fools joke?

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