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Messages - hospter81

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: wort chiller recommendation for a 1 bbl system
« on: November 04, 2013, 08:48:12 PM »
Plate chillers are much faster with a pump. The space is so thin though that there is a lot of resistance to flow. Buy a pump before a second chiller. Hot water is also a great way to sanitized them.

running hot wort through a pump before the wort chiller could cause any oxidation due to hot aeration? i've used a march pump at 190F and there is a lot cavitation, could that affect?

2
Equipment and Software / Re: wort chiller recommendation for a 1 bbl system
« on: November 04, 2013, 07:54:53 PM »
Indeed, i pre chill my cooling water to 53F....i dont know for sure, but i think putting a secundo therminator will increase chances of a possible contamination...:S

3
Equipment and Software / wort chiller recommendation for a 1 bbl system
« on: November 04, 2013, 07:28:44 PM »
Hello! i've been using a therminator for a while but it takes a lot of time (one hour) to chill 33 gals from 200 to 72F... im looking for a dudadiesel. What size do you recommend me for that size? i was thinking in a 23-40 or a 32-40

I dont use any pump in the process (and i know this is maybe a silly question) but can i use one before the wort chiller in order to increase the flow and be more efficient?

Thanks!

4
Beer Recipes / how much munich in a porter?
« on: October 15, 2013, 02:52:19 PM »
Hi! i been brewing my porter for several batches but i feel it needs more maltyness...and i want to boost up the munich malt, here is my malt bill:

55% 2 row briess malt
25% munich 10L briess malt
5% c-40 malt
3% c-120 malt
8% chocolate malt
4% black patent malt

In past batches i used to mash up to 69% of 2 row and 11% of munich, what do you think?... my OG is 1052 and im trying to give a good body mashing at 160F and a good maltyness with that 25% of munich...i ferment at 65 with US05 for a clean flavor. For hops i use magnum at FWH and 60 minutes to achieve 35 IBUS

Any comments, tips, changes you would do? thanks!

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: black ipa and bruns water spreadsheet
« on: October 08, 2013, 07:45:10 AM »
This is my malt bill:

13.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 81.1 %
1.66 lb Rye Malt (4.7 SRM) Grain 9.9 %
0.50 lb Cara-Rye (70.0 SRM) Grain 3.0 %
0.50 lb Carafa III dehusked(525.0 SRM) Grain 3.0 %

So...do you consider a pale ale profile (sufates = 300 ppm) since there arent any harsh or roast flavors?

thanks!

6
Kegging and Bottling / cold crash question
« on: October 07, 2013, 12:06:21 PM »
Hi! is there a big difference if i cold crash at 35ºF instead of 32ºF to precipitate all the yeast, proteins and quit the cold haze? what is the recommended time to do it?

thanks!

7
All Grain Brewing / black ipa and bruns water spreadsheet
« on: October 07, 2013, 08:51:03 AM »
Hi! i want to do a wookey jack clone from firestone walker, i have build all my recipe but dont know how to approach this on the bruns water spreadsheet. Can i use the pale ale profile to enhance the hops? o do i need to use the black hoppy profile?

I have tasted that beer and for me it is very balanced, but i dont know if the black balanced profile could fit with this beer...what do you think? what profile would you use?

thanks!

8
Yeast and Fermentation / which dry yeast strain do you prefer?
« on: August 12, 2013, 11:34:57 AM »
Hi! just wondering which strain do you prefer for american styles and why? us05 or bry-97?

thanks!

9
General Homebrew Discussion / dry hops on IPL
« on: August 02, 2013, 03:16:36 PM »
I've recently tasted the fathom IPL from ballast point. It just blow my mind! But i'm intrigued on when to add a dry hop on lagers? It is supposed that dry hop efficiency improves at 68F. Lager fermentations can't afford that temperatures unless when performing the diacetyl rest and just for a little time. After that is just cold maduration....so...at what time is good to do the dry hops?

thanks for your comments

10
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 03:08:52 PM »
I dont have access to MO, thats why i am asking, thanks for your comments!

And that great smooth bitterness that you feel at the end when you taste yeti, how do you do that? because its not hoppy aroma. I was thinking it 40% of my hop bill at FWH and 60% at 60 minutes. Also adjusting my water salts to enhance maltiness...what do you think?

I'm not sold on FWH being any different than a bittering addition.

If you're noticing a sharp bitter/astringent flavor in your dark beers now, start by keeping sulfates levels low in your water and check mash/sparge pH. Watch your amount of total roasted grain - you can get too much roast, even in RIS.

Are you starting with RO water and adjusting from there? If so, just keep sulfates to a minimum. If you're starting with tap water, you may have too much to begin with - just cut it with a little store-bought distilled. Keep an eye on your mash pH, and make sure it doesn't get too high during the sparge.

Indeed i use RO and adjust my water as i want. However thanks for your advices :D Im just trying to figure how, when you taste yeti, you feel a firm and smooth bitterness at the end of the sip and not at the very beggining... how do you accomplish that?

11
Ingredients / Re: maris otter flavor?
« on: July 24, 2013, 09:18:30 AM »
I dont have access to MO, thats why i am asking, thanks for your comments!

And that great smooth bitterness that you feel at the end when you taste yeti, how do you do that? because its not hoppy aroma. I was thinking it 40% of my hop bill at FWH and 60% at 60 minutes. Also adjusting my water salts to enhance maltiness...what do you think?

12
Ingredients / maris otter flavor?
« on: July 23, 2013, 02:38:42 PM »
Hi! I am  intrigued about how beers like yeti imperial stout and the greenflash ryepa aniversary beer (for example) have a pleasant, smooth and delicious sweet malty start and then a big punch of hoppy flavor and bitterness at the end, i havent used maris otter malt and also dont know how it taste. But, am i correct if those beers, specially yeti uses that base malt to produce those flavors? what else can be? I made my beers with only american 2row and seldom pale ale but obviously dont have the same flavor as those beers.

Thanks for your comments

13
Kegging and Bottling / clarification methods
« on: July 20, 2013, 07:32:18 AM »
Hello, just wonder to know which clarification methods do you use. I know that time and cold storage is the best way to do it, but when i am in a hurry i use to filter my beer with a 1 micron polydepth filter at 32F with great results.

Last week i talked with a friend that has been brewing for at least 15 years (a lot!) and he told me how he use to clarify his beer:

After fermentation is complete incluiding diacetyl rest he removes all of the yeast from the fermenter and chill it to 32F for about 48 hours to create chill haze. Then he stop chilling and return naturally the beer to fermentation temperature (68F) and inmediately returns to 32F for another 24 or 48 hours to precipitate all the proteins and haze the beer created.

He says that beer stays clear and saves a lot of money and time in filters. Has anyone tried this method? By the way my friend's beer is awesome and VERY clear

thanks for your comments!

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP category doubt
« on: July 19, 2013, 02:52:47 PM »
Thanks for your comments guys! :D

15
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: BJCP category doubt
« on: July 19, 2013, 10:54:05 AM »
it has a lot of centennial-amarillo on late hop addition and dry hop too....so? would be a 23?

i think its pretty close to the rogue dry hopped st red ale, and that is called amber ale...

Im confused

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