The only thing I worry about is fading of logos or deterioration of a gold/silver rim, both which I've seen happen.
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There's most likely not going to be a warranty. I have successfully glued mine back together with a little super glue. That said, you can buy them new 25-35 bucks.
All I'm finding are Polyclar VT and Polyclar 10 (not even sure if they are different).
The directions for both are to add post-fermentation, which I have no interest in. Can either of these be used successfully in the boil?
IIRC zwiller posted that he has made his own Brewbrite using typical LHBS Polyclar. I did the same using Polyclar 10 and 1/2 tab whirlfloc and added the mixture @ 10 mins left in the boil.
Nothing specific in the trub that would have an effect on flavor?
Maybe the question has been asked and answered. How important is it to get the clearest possible wort into the fermentor?
Varying degrees of trub separation: removing hot trub, removing cold trub or a combination of the 2 has a number of effects, most notably faster lagering times.
Straight lambic is young (generally 1 yr) and uncarbonated, so it's perfect for a box.Oud Beersel.
Where am (was) I?
I never use a bag. Just throw 'em in!
Spunding makes great sense but not for IPA/dry hopping. Cold crashing and DH on bright beer has been the largest improvement I've made in a long time to my IPA and kinda nixes it. As of now my thoughts are basically, MAYBE adding KMB/SMB at dry hop giving it time to dissipate and AA at kegging. Might consider sugar carbonation too.
From my trials of antiox-c along with sulfur I got a host of other off flavors.