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Messages - paul

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Events / 2 Sat night GABF tickets
« on: September 29, 2014, 07:54:16 PM »
I have two Sat night GABF tickets for sale.  Face value for the pair ($153).  Paypal preferred.  PM me if you're interested.

Bread yeast does sound like a good idea for the test.  Thanks!

I'm not sure if I used Weyermann or Castle Abbey malt, but I thought of it as a darker munich/aromatic malt, not crystal.  I used 7% abbey malt, so not that much.  Oh, and here's some information on Abbey malt. In this case 33% Abbey malt didn't hurt attenuation at all:

Hydrometer was definitely floating…that I checked.

Pooped yeast is the only possibility that remains. A forced ferment test makes sense.  But I could waste a pack of yeast on the test, then have to buy another two to pitch in the beer.  Seem like i could just pitch two in the beer?  Or is there a downside to that?

I'll be jiggered.  My tap water is 1.002 at 60 F.  I have to go back and change all of my notes!  Not sure how much mineral content adds, but my water is pretty darn low in minerals.

However, I'm still sitting at 68% attenuation for a yeast that I've always gotten 72-77% from….correction 76-79%!  Those beers both had more crystal and/or were mashed higher than this one.

If my hydrometer is that far off, then I have a hundred other batches that finished much, much lower than I actually thought!  But I'll check...

I used a hydrometer. Didn't use amber caramel (assuming you mean cara amber?), unless the LHBS switched them!  Actually, I tasted the malt and it was definitely not a caramel malt.  The thermometer gets calibrated every batch by noting that it starts at room temperature and registers 203 F in the boiling wort (I'm at 5000 ft).  I've also swirled the carboy several times in the past few days.  Also, I added Wyeast nutrient to the boil, so it seems unlikely it would be nutrient deficient.

I'm wondering about the most proven ways to drop a few more points, assuming the fermentation is really stuck for some reason.  I've read lots of threads over the years about stuck fermentations, and many recommendations are made regarding how drop a few more points.  I haven't seen threads where people report back what worked and what didn't...yeast hulls, pitch dry yeast, pitch an active starter, etc.  Any suggestions what works best?

I have had success with unsticking a fermentation by racking the beer onto a recently flocculated yeast cake, but I don't have one handy at this point.

I'm wondering if I have a stuck fermentation or if my beer's just done?

I used  a bunch of amber malt in a biere de garde, 15% by weight.  The rest of the grain bill was pale malt, munich malt, and abbey malt, with no crystal at all.  Mashed at 152 F.  Used Saflager 34/70, pitched two packs of rehydrated yeast for a 1.075 OG, added yeast nutrient, oxygenated as usual, fermented on the warmer side (58 F) and raised temp for the past 6 days to 70 F to try to get it to finish. It's been at 1.026 the for four days.  It really seems like I should have gotten more than 65% attenuation.

I'm wondering if the amber malt is the culprit?  Does it have a low fermentability?

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Other uses for Wyeast 2112
« on: November 30, 2013, 10:29:55 PM »
Years ago I did a SMASH with 2112: Vienna malt and Northern Brewer.  (Actually it was White Labs' version of this yeast, WLP810.)  I entered it in the local homebrew competition as a Classic American Pilsner and took first place.  One of the judges later told me it was the best CAP he ever had.  Nothing wrong with that yeast!

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit beer questions
« on: September 04, 2013, 09:44:26 PM »
Just to close the loop on my original post...

I put 2.6 gallons of the wheat ale on 3 lb of fresh peaches and 3/4 lb fresh apricots.  I took the pits out of both, left skins on, chopped them, and froze them for a day or two before adding the beer.  Racked off the fruit and bottled after 15 days.  Fermentation seemed to have ceased, and there was some white mold growing on top of the peaches.  (I racked carefully and tried not to disturb the fuzz!)

The result is better than I hoped for.  The peach and apricot aroma is definitely there, and is more than subtle.  I suspect most people would guess peach/apricot aroma without being told what's in the beer.  The beer dried out more than expected...both the fruit half and non-fruit half of the batch ended up with a FG around 1.008.  But this makes it a more refreshing beer IMO.

Things I'd do different next time:
I may or may not increase the fruit.  If I do, it wouldn't be by much.
I'd remember to use some sort of filter on the racking cane (e.g., copper Chore Boy pad) to keep the fruit fragments out of the bottle.
I might consider some sort of fining or pectin.  The fruit beer is way cloudy.  Not a huge concern, but could  be easy to solve.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit beer questions
« on: August 02, 2013, 06:26:59 AM »
So you already had the answer to your questions? Why are you asking us then?

I do already have a pretty good idea of what I want to do, but I am looking for input.  But if someone's input seems way out of line, can't I question it?

Anyway, thank you all for the input.  I certainly learned a few things.  Based on Big Al's information, it looks like I'm headed for mild fruit character, which is what I'm after.

I wondered about bacteria on the skin, but also thought that the skin is where the aroma seems to be.  The tradeoff seems OK...a little sour twang in this beer might be nice.

I'm still curious how long this might take to ferment out.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit beer questions
« on: August 01, 2013, 10:50:49 PM »
That makes sense to me.  It's in the freezer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fruit beer questions
« on: August 01, 2013, 06:58:31 PM »
Really? I've read lots of posts on discussion boards, and 4 to 5lbs in a 5 gallon batch seems to be the consensus for a moderately peachy beverage. Have you actually used that much peach?

General Homebrew Discussion / Fruit beer questions
« on: August 01, 2013, 05:37:36 PM »
I’m making my first fruit beer, an American wheat peach ale, and have some questions for the group.
I’ve already brewed a wheat…1.048 OG, 1.011 FG, New Mexico multihead hops for a slightly peachy aroma already.  FG was reached a few days ago.
I’m planning to split the batch and put about 2.5 gallons on 2 lb peaches, and about 0.25 – 0.5 lb apricots.
The plan is to rinse the fruit well, chop into about 1/2-inch pieces (to fit through Better Bottle opening), leave the skins on, cut the pits out, rack onto the fruit and let sit at about 72 F until the SG stabilizes.
How does this sound?  Am I missing any steps or am I about to do something wrong?
How long does it typically take for yeast to chew through the extra sugar?  I pitched plenty of English and American Wheat yeast.


Events / Re: Password for GABF Pre-sale
« on: July 30, 2013, 09:44:28 AM »
I had the same issue with the Sat afternoon session, so I decided to just buy Fri night tickets. The good news is I could buy 4 tickets instead of just 2, so my wife and I can bring some friends.

I wouldn't blame these issues on AHA, but on Ticketmaster. Selling tickets online is supposed to be their area of expertise, but it seems like there are lots of little problems with their system. First, the system tells me my member number is wrong when it clearly was not. Then, when I decided to try for a Fri ticket instead, it accepted my member number and told me I was approved for the Fri might tickets with the farm to table option, which I had not selected. Fortunately when I got to the payment page, farm to table wasn't on my bill. Also, why is ticketmaster the only site that I visit that has that extra credit card verification password? I use Ticketmaster once every couple of years and can never remember it.

Ingredients / Re: The "Truth" About Commercial Beer.
« on: July 27, 2013, 09:35:51 PM »
I wonder about the first person who decided that beaver anal gland secretions tasted more like raspberries than raspberries do.

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