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Messages - mabrungard

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: recirculate mash?
« on: March 21, 2018, 07:59:42 PM »
There are lipids and other constituents that you don't want getting into your kettle and subsequent beer. It is highly recommended that you recirculate your wort until the discharge is clear. Turbid wort is a no-no.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Smooth Bitterness in an IPA
« on: March 20, 2018, 01:18:18 PM »
I forgot to mention THE most important thing that can affect hop flavor and coarseness: pH. For some reason, I assumed that the OP was managing mashing pH, but I don't see that.

If you start with alkaline tap water and only add a modest amount of salts, the mashing pH is likely high. That can definitely make components like hop flavor and bitterness seem coarse and rough. If you haven't been paying attention to pH, now is the time.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Ingredient Battles
« on: March 19, 2018, 11:59:12 AM »
I experimented with Fuggles for about a half dozen brews before deciding I just don't like the flavor of that hop. Its off my list.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Smooth Bitterness in an IPA
« on: March 18, 2018, 06:50:32 PM »
Without knowing what sulfate level was used previously, it may be premature to say that backing down that level is an answer. If the sulfate wasn’t at 200 ppm or more, backing it down probably isn’t the answer.

Is it possible the bittering level is too high for the residual malt level? If the recipe was originally formulated with Rager and then produced with Tinseth, I find that the bitterness is overstated.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water
« on: March 16, 2018, 12:29:49 PM »
That's typical southern Cal water. Pretty tough to brew with. You are better off diluting all or part of the water with RO.

While proper pH is an appropriate target, that only gets you so far with some styles. The relatively high mineralization of those water sources are not well-suited for brewing lighter and more delicate styles, so dilution needs to be in your toolbox.

Equipment and Software / Re: Aluminum Kettle
« on: March 15, 2018, 12:19:19 PM »
I use a 60 qt AL stock pot with nice thick walls for my electric fired kettle. It's worked well for almost a decade now. The main disadvantages of AL in my case is that AL conducts heat better than SST and that means that my system loses a touch more heat. That means I have to turn up my electric controller a bit more...whoopee. 

I don't scrub the kettle too hard. My main goal is remove all trub. However, I will alert you that the internal surface does build a 'varnish' layer from the wort. You can't see it until you give the kettle a hot PBW soak. A soak every few years seems to be frequent enough. 

Homebrew Con 2018 / Re: Homebrewcon 2018 -Who is Going?
« on: March 12, 2018, 01:49:15 PM »
Airport transfer key? I'm not sure what you mean. The light rail goes directly from the airport and past the convention center and into downtown. I have no plans to rent a vehicle while I'm there.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: DISH WASHER
« on: March 11, 2018, 05:17:25 AM »
I wouldn’t even consider using a dishwasher for preparing bottles. The is no guarantee that any flow made it into the bottle. A soak in some sort of cleaner followed by a sanitizer rinse is most prudent.

I’ll concur with Rob that bleach can be an excellent cleaner and long as there were plenty of rinse steps between the bleach and the final sanitizer. The nose is a decent chlorine detector for many people. Bleach has phenomenal killing power in the cases where you have a persistent infector.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water pH off
« on: March 01, 2018, 04:46:16 PM »
The first thing I did when I went to nearly all cold side measurements was to compare my final pH from my favorite stuff.  I am fanatical about pH and was way off... 

I haven't studied that in my favorite commercial examples. What do you typically find? Homebrew pHs are higher or lower than commercial examples?

I was already aware of the degradation of iso-alpha through Malowicki's work, but I was pleased to see the additional reference in that article from the IBD journal that confirms it. My upcoming article on Wort Boiling covers that degradation.

As Robert says, boiling too hard or too long has some serious negative effects on beer. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water pH off
« on: March 01, 2018, 01:05:38 PM »
Always calibrate before measuring at room temp.  Beats me!  But I'm generally measuring 2 tenths lower than prediction. 

That suggests that either that batch of base malt is more acidic (its happened) or the alkalinity of your water is lower than assumed.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Bru'n Water pH off
« on: March 01, 2018, 01:42:28 AM »
The 4 and 7 solutions have much more stability and longevity than the 10 solution. 10 degrades very quickly. Fortunately, there is no reason to calibrate in the 10 range when dealing with brewing.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Water profile for a Scottish export
« on: February 28, 2018, 12:45:33 PM »
Somewhat surprisingly, Scottish styles can benefit from having a decent amount of sulfate in them. There are several areas around Edinburough that have sulfate dominated water. That helps the malty beer to dry out adequately.

I've used an elevated sulfate profile (~100 ppm SO4) for years in my Scottish Heavy and it's a very quaffable beer. I wouldn't default to a high chloride profile for this style.

All Grain Brewing / Re: What exactly is Extra Pale malt?
« on: February 26, 2018, 06:28:51 PM »
Extra Pale is equivalent to Pils malt with respect to kilning and color. It only differs with respect to the barley cultivar. Extra Pale malt will have significant SMM content and higher potential for DMS formation.

I have elected to classify base malts with respect to color rating. I refer to all base malts with color between 1.2L and 2.2L as Pils malt. All base malts with color between 2.3L and 4L are called Pale malt. Pils malts tend to have sweeter or honey flavor and pale malt tends to add nutty notes to their flavor. Extra pale malt is a pils malt. Vienna malt typically falls in the pale malt range.

Pils malts have significant SMM content and minor DMS content and therefore require more boiling time to convert that SMM to DMS. It then takes some time for the converted DMS to volatilize.

Pale malts typically have low SMM content and have more significant DMS content. Since DMS is easily volatilized from wort, they don't have to be boiled as long as pils malts do.   

Unless you're brewing a very pale colored beer, there is only minor reason to employ pils malt (obtaining that honey sweet malt flavor). If your beer is intended to be darker than about 3 or 4 SRM, then most brewers would find that a pale malt would work very well and there would be fewer problems with DMS.

Going Pro / Re: Switching careers to brew?
« on: February 24, 2018, 04:30:08 PM »
Why destroy your perfectly good hobby by making it a profession?

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