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Messages - wilypig

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1
Other Fermentables / Re: Homebrewopedia Cider Recipes
« on: October 21, 2013, 10:26:34 AM »
With the cinnamon in the cider I made several different batches and soaking in a neutral spirit is not necessary. Cinnamon is an irritant and will not support nasties. I used a large quantity in a cider early in the process and it killed my yeast leaving me with a very sweet finished product. Good enough for a BOS but a learning experience anyway. Another way I have used is to take a growler and fill it with cinnamon and top it up with finished cider. Then add back for packaging. This adds no extra alcohol or other components not intended to the cider.

2
CO / Re: Loveland Weiz Guys and Grimm Brothers Brewhouse
« on: August 30, 2011, 01:12:16 PM »
November 5th - AHA  Learn to Homebrew day.

3
CO / Loveland Weiz Guys and Grimm Brothers Brewhouse
« on: August 30, 2011, 10:39:38 AM »
Join the Weiz Guys Homebrew club (http://www.weizguys.com/) at Grimm Brothers Brewhouse (http://www.grimmbrosbrewhouse.com/) for a day of brewing education and appreciation. We will be starting with an extract beer so all can see that 'if you can make macaroni and cheese from a box, you can make great beer'. We will also be making a Parti-gyle full mash for 2 beers so those that are looking to take the leap can get involved in the process. If interested drop me a line (Ric Cunningham - wilypig@gmail.com). Exact beer styles are not in concrete yet but a Rye PA and Rye porter are in the works for the Parti-gyle mash beers. Bring a friend and some samples if you have them. Prost.


5 November 2011
First beer starts at 8 am, second soon after.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How much beer is too much?
« on: August 02, 2011, 08:08:15 AM »
It is only too much if you run out of storage space or fermentation capacity. I brew in binges - generally 30 gallons at a whack. Stocks up the cellar and I only have to brew every 4 or 5 months. That 30 gallons is generally three 10 gallon batches of wort that are treated differently in fermentation and conditioning to have plenty of variety.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Fishy beer
« on: June 03, 2011, 06:28:16 AM »
I recently made a Dunkelweizen with the Platinum strain Weizen Yeast from White labs. When served from the keg and a bit cold the aroma was fine but when decanted to a growler and allowed to warm up a bit the aroma was of freshly cleaned trout. Not quite pleasant. I have seen this once before at a competition and was wondering if anyone has a clue to what may cause the issue. The beer was fermented in a corny keg at 70 deg with a 4 week primary and direct transfer to another keg. I used Atmos 300 as a foam control agent (similar to Fermcap S). The beer as force carbonated at 36 degrees at 12 PSI for 2 weeks. Thanks all.

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Second Runnings Beer
« on: March 24, 2011, 08:29:05 AM »
Designing Great Beers has a section on recipe formulation that discusses the use of Gravity point in detail. I use this for Partigyle mash development a lot. I generally get 3 beers from a partigyle mash with this method. A big beer in the 1.080 area, a standard beer in the 1.050-1.060 range and a small ale in the 1.030-1.040 range. With the addition of some specialty/steeping grains (Crystal, roast, etc.) you can really change the character of the subsequent beers. I like to run the first infusion/mash with just base grain, I use Golden Promise for a strong ale/barley wine. The second infusion would be with and addition of some toasted malt(Victory/biscuit) and some crystal. The third infusion would include some black malt and chocolate malt. This would give the following - Barleywine, Pale ale, Brown Porter. 3 beer, one mash tun, one brew day. A bit longer than the normal brew day but I can triple the output with the addition of a few hours. And yes I have access enough equipment to do this.

7
Other Fermentables / Re: Thinking of making a cider
« on: October 01, 2010, 03:08:27 AM »
I presently live in the Niagara Region of New York which is full of orchards. Every year I make 4 ciders; one common, one Cyser, one New England Style and one experimental. I have won BOS with both a Dry cider and a sweet cider in the Western New York Homebrew competition - Amber Waves of Grain held in March each year. I am a fan of the English Cider method of sulfiting and allowing the resident yeast do the work. Most of my ciders are relatively dry unless I crank up the adjuncts to the point of yeast toxicity in fermentation. It may be less consistent but to me cider is a seasonal product that should change with the crop. To make a sweet cider takes a lot of work to stabilize and back sweeten in most cases. The key to a really good cider is finding a cider mill with a good blend of apples. My local mill does unpasteurized runs for hard cider makers about 3 times a season. They use UV pasteurization so doing a test batch with a gallon is easy enough if you add a bit of yeast. The best time to get cider for fermentation is late in the season. I usually get mine right around Thanksgiving in the US. Give it a try, all you have to do is fill a fermenter with juice and basically wait. I find my cider is ready by spring and usually lasts until the fall.

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Transfer kegged beer to another keg?
« on: June 28, 2010, 06:31:00 PM »
I had a similar problem and the leak was in 2 places. One was on post to the beer out  and the other was on a hose connection on my manifold. I killed two 20 pound tanks of CO2 in 6 weeks. Starsan works great as a leak detector and it is safe around you kegs.

9
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Ball Lock Out Disconnect Broken ?
« on: June 28, 2010, 06:24:57 PM »
Kegworks.com used to have them for 6.99

10
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Epoxy Mixers in the Dip Tube ?
« on: June 28, 2010, 06:24:04 PM »
Ok I don't understand how to use the epoxy mixer tip to reduce foaming. I do not have any issues but I always like to find new trick to help people in times of need. I would also like to try the trick just to see how it works.

11
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sterilizing kegs
« on: June 28, 2010, 06:12:21 PM »
I have a manifold with 6 gas lines and all my lines are now protected by check valves since I back flushed the system with a naturally fermented cider. McMaster Carr has them for about 6 bucks a piece. Well worth the cost to save a batch or 2. This can also prevent the cross flavor contamination that some people experience when feeding more than one keg from a single regulator.

12
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sterilizing kegs
« on: June 21, 2010, 09:54:23 AM »
My process for keg use is as follows:

Ferment in keg
Transfer by CO2 push to sanitized and purged keg

Remove posts and lid
Inspect all soft parts; post orings, dip tube orings, lid oring, poppets. Replace as required. I keep a goodie bag of all these parts on hand.
drop all components in keg
Fill with hot water and "Oxi"-cleaner (generic)
Soak overnight
drain and rinse
reassemble
Fill with Starsan and hold while working on the next keg
Transfer starsan to next keg (I transfer out to out on the keg)
Pressurize to 10 psi with CO2
Mark and set aside for next use

My last keg of the day gets to keep the starsan until the next session.

my starsan is mixed with distilled water to ensure long usability

I have not had any issues of flavor carry over (from sodas) or infection, even with the previous batch holding a Brett or Lambic style.

I generally leave them in the keg for several weeks until I can bottle (beer gun) or place in service with no ill effects.

13
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Beer Gun vs. CP Filler
« on: June 17, 2010, 07:07:33 AM »
I have a BBG and it is one of my top 5 gadgets for ease of use and functionality. I generally prime in a keg and bottle but I do some times bottles carbonated samples. The one handed operation is far superior to a CP filler in my opinion. I usually fill 3-6 kegs worth in a session - 4-5 hours from set up to break down. My 0.02.

14
Other Fermentables / Re: I need a "making cider for dummies"
« on: June 15, 2010, 08:08:51 AM »
I generally go 1-2 pounds per gallon depending on my mood. The natural yeast in my area are very robust and will ferment pretty far.

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Acetaldehyde strikes again
« on: June 14, 2010, 11:29:07 AM »
Try leaving the beer on the primary yeast for 3 weeks then continue as usual. Early flocculation or racking can cause this as the yeast does not have the time to finish the full conversion. Acetaldehyde is an alcohol precursor and needs to be reduced by the yeast. Give it some more time. Budweiser has the slight green apple quality because the Beechwood chips cause early yeast flocculation. You could try fermenting a touch warmer to speed things up a bit as well.

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