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Messages - santoch

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: isovaleric acid - sweaty socks
« on: July 26, 2016, 05:51:16 PM »
Isovaleric acid is definitely hop related.

The funny thing about it is that major parts of the population can't even detect it at any level.  I went to the Siebel Sensory Perception class at GABF back in 2009 (God, has it been that long?) and while half the class sipped away at the sample straining to find something wrong, the other half of the class was making gagging noises and looked like they were going to hurl.

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 30m boil help
« on: July 23, 2016, 08:02:59 PM »
I'd be interested to see if the old-school DMS/light colored malt/short boil relationship holds up or is BS.  I guess you need to try brewing a German Pils with that 30 minute boil and see how that goes?

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: First lager!
« on: July 23, 2016, 07:52:07 PM »
Is there somebody nearby with some DME you can borrow?

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Free Wort....
« on: July 23, 2016, 07:00:50 PM »
Agree- It will be a nice Belgian Single / Pale ale-ish type of beer.

5

Just to clear things up, steeping is similar but not the same as mashing.  Steeping simply washes sugars and similar flavor/color/aroma compounds from those grains.  No chemical processes are involved besides dissolving them in the water. Since no starches were present, no starches are left over. Temperature is pretty much wide open (ie, they recommend to just keep it below about 170F), and pH is usually just ignored - its not factor with most household water.

On the other hand, mashing involves enzymatic conversion of starches into sugars, which requires suitable temperature and pH (dissolved mineral) conditions in the water.  Dissolving of the color and flavor compounds also happens in the mash, just like in steeping.  Note that the conditions favorable for mashing are a small subset of the conditions favorable for steeping.

As the others agreed with me, and which I said awkwardly, long term stability is at risk if unconverted starches are present.  I'll rephrase/repeat what I said before.  There is no QUICK GOOD FIX to rid starches from a fermented beer so that they will remain the same and still gain long term stability.  You either need to drink them before they turn, add amylase enzyme which will thin out the beer a lot, or pitch bacteria/yeast that is capable of processing the starch in a controlled way as opposed to them taking hold in the package.

HTH-

6
Aromatic and Melanoidan malts do not have the enzymes needed to convert their starches.  They therefore must be mashed in the presence of another malt that has the diastatic power (DP) to do so, such as 2 row or pilsner malt.  Crystal / Caramel malt has already been mashed, so that malt can be steeped and are not an issue.  Briess Carapils is not completely converted so it too should be mashed.

You likely have unconverted starch in your wort.  It will not have good shelf stability.  There really is not any good way to recover from this unless you pitch bugs and sour it.  Amylase enzyme (such as beano) can convert the starch, but leave the body very very, thin.  I'd recommend you just drink them fast.

Next time, ensure that all of the malts you are using can be steeped, or alternatively, do a partial mash by adding about a lb and a half of 2 row, 6 row, or pilsner malt per lb of unconverted specialty malt, and steep them together at a pH of 5.2 held at 150F for about 30-45 mins.  Use about 2 quarts per lb of grain in your mini-mash.  See Palmer's How to Brew for in-depth info on it.

Mashing is not difficult.  You just need to be more particular about temp and pH.

Good luck, and feel free to ask if you have any questions about which grains need to be mashed and which are ok to just steep.

HTH-

-Steve

7
Equipment and Software / Re: Brewing with a pump
« on: July 12, 2016, 05:41:28 PM »
Priming a pump is much easier if you orient it so that the outflow connector is vertical, pointing up.  The wort goes in on the bottom, and the air flows right out of the top unobstructed.

8
Beer Recipes / Re: Dark Mild recipe and Yeast choices
« on: July 10, 2016, 06:57:57 PM »
Just noticed this thread.  Sorry if I'm late.

I would suggest you NOT use Magnum in a mild.  You want to maximize English character in this kind of a beer, and Magnum is extremely clean and neutral.  I'd go with an English bittering hop, like Challenger or Target instead.  (Fuggles or EKG will work too).

9
Beer Recipes / Re: Feedback requested on IPA recipe
« on: July 10, 2016, 06:53:21 PM »
Erik-
If you are having issues with yeast getting going, I highly recommend you get an oxygen system for aerating.  90 seconds in a 5 gallon batch and your yeast will be quite happy.

10
Will they brew a gueze if it wins?

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bittering W/ Cascade
« on: July 10, 2016, 06:26:17 PM »
Cascade is a great all purpose hop for American ale styles.  It can be pungent at first but it does get better with age.  I like using it as a bittering hop.  I tend to be patient and am not in a rush to carbonate as soon as the beer hits FG, so I tend to start drinking them after these off flavors have mellowed/dissipated.  Please understand, I'm not claiming you did that, I'm just saying you got this flavor early, but it dissipated, which means you may have started drinking this batch before the mellowing took place.

Note that other particulate can drop out over time, too.  Yeast bite is a common flavor experienced early in a batch.  It has a harshness to it (hence the term "bite").  Also, Dry hopping imparts tannins from the hops, which can add to the perceived bitterness.  As the beer ages, these tend to drop out as well.

You can try brewing the same batch again, and split it into 2 kegs.  Drink 1 right away, and save the other, to see if you get the same results (early == bitter, late == smooth).


12
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Pale Ale Fermentation
« on: July 06, 2016, 10:04:37 PM »
Welcome-
No, 61 is a good temp for it.
Let it stay there for about 5 or 6 days then let the temp rise up to about 70 for another week.  The yeast will clean up after themselves and you will get a very nice, clean beer.



13
All Grain Brewing / Re: Mosaic question for my recipe
« on: July 04, 2016, 08:37:02 AM »
I agree too, with the minor difference that I use 20mins as my cutoff point instead of 30 out of personal preference.

14
13C is a bit cold for Weissbier yeasts.
you want to target about 17C for that.

15
All Grain Brewing / Re: First all grain brew day
« on: July 03, 2016, 01:48:25 PM »
Carbonation will make a big difference.  The pH will drop due to carbonic acid, making the flavor more tart and more refreshing.  Also, the aromatics will be more pronounced because of the effervescence.

Congrats on your first AG batch!

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