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Messages - santoch

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dry Hop in Keg
« on: March 19, 2017, 12:16:46 AM »
I throw a couple of big heavy stainless steel fittings into the bag so it sinks.  (I boil them with the bag before adding the hops.)

Get the hops into full contact with the beer and that really helps, at least in my experience.

Ingredients / Re: Cascade SMaSH - How much 5.5% AA hopping?
« on: March 19, 2017, 12:11:35 AM »
I'm personally not a fan of 30 minute additions. I don't think it adds anything special to the beer. I'd rather break it up between the 60 and 15 (or FO) additions to hit your bitterness target and send the rest later in the boil.

Others will disagree. There are plenty of brewers who like those mid-boil additions.

For my hoppy beers, I like to make additions at small intervals (5 mins or less) starting at 20 and going through flameout.   I trust my software and calculate the bitterness of those additions, and then add just enough at 60 to hit my target IBU level.  (plus dry hops)

I based it loosely on DFH's continuous hopping schedule, but made it a series of additions instead of trying to replicate the "vibrating football field" effect.

Like ReverseApacheMaster, I don't get the attraction of the mid boil additions, so I just skip them.
I'm very happy with the results I get using this procedure.

Beer Recipes / Re: Wine Kit Saison
« on: March 17, 2017, 08:36:47 PM »
The issue isn't so much the dryness.  I LOVE a nice dry Saison.  It's the tannin from the grape juice coupled and the dryness of both the beer and the wine -- each will accentuate the other, like Constructive Interference.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Gelatin At Bottling
« on: March 16, 2017, 10:06:31 PM »
I never tried it but my thought is they are counter productive.
You want the yeast to get into suspension so it eats the sugars and carbonates the beer.
But the gelatin is in there to electrostatically bind to the yeast and make them drop out of suspension.

You can get good clarity by simply giving them time to carbonate (I go at least 2 weeks at 70F+) then crash cooling them down.

Homebrewer Bios / Re: Hi everyone. My introductory first post on AHA.
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:04:06 PM »
Hello and welcome!  Just so you know, I am one of the few homebrewers who has absolutely NO desire to open a brewery or work in one!

Me either!

Beer Recipes / Re: Why the Pale Not / An American Pale Ale
« on: March 15, 2017, 08:00:05 PM »
Several years ago (proably 6 or 7), we tried using the electronic forms for a small (but important) competition here in WA (it was the Bert Grant competition, where the Gold Medal winners from all of the WA State comps for the previous year submit an entry for every gold they took in during the year). For most people (myself included, and I am a sw engr so I type for a living), it takes quite a bit longer to fill in the digital format judging forms than it does to write them out by hand.  It was a fun experiment but it showed that the electronic forms are impractical in real time.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Clear beer??
« on: March 15, 2017, 07:48:28 PM »
cold crashing helps a lot.

Beer Recipes / Re: Wine Kit Saison
« on: March 13, 2017, 09:25:12 PM »
Yeah, my thought is that this is going to dry out big time.  I'd even mash higher, 158F, and would probably even think hard about a cup of malto-dextrin to boost the body. The grape juice will add a lot of tannin, too, so the dextrins will help compensate to prevent an astringent end product.

Beer Recipes / Re: Bink Blond recipe
« on: March 13, 2017, 09:19:00 PM »
Really interesting having all those English hops up front, then the Saaz late.

Beer Recipes / Re: American wheat
« on: March 13, 2017, 09:12:38 PM »
I think Chinook late adds more pine flavors than when using it to bitter, where it emphasizes resiny.

I'd consider taking a bit of the CTZ (which is low cohumulone so you will get a smooth bitterness out of it) and using it in small amounts to hit your target IBU level, after moving all that piney Chinook to late in the boil (10 mins and later).

my .02

Beer Recipes / Re: Why the Pale Not / An American Pale Ale
« on: March 13, 2017, 09:03:25 PM »
It looks like there was more prominent malt aroma than hop flavors, in a style that demands hop presence.

Also, the cloudiness and under-attenuation noted by the first judge indicates that the yeast probably hasn't completely flocculated and in fact may still be working on the beer, OR they found the crystal to be a bit cloyingly sweet.   Regardless, there's really no need for table sugar in this style. Folks use it in IIPAs to help make them drier and more drinkable, but that's because those beers are starting way bigger than this one is.
It will only add alcohol, which accentuates the bitterness but not the hop flavor, and even could present itself as an increased astringency/harshness.  I agree with the likelihood of astringency due to the mash pH.

So, I agree you should drop the sugar, and also suggest you reduce the Crystal to 1/2 a lb, then target an OG more towards 1.051-54 by adjusting the amount of base malt as needed.

Hop wise, I would combine the 30 min cascade addition back with the 5, move the Willamette to 10, and add a couple more oz of late boil hops @ 15 and 0 mins for additional hop flavor.  Even though the judges were saying the malt exceeded the hops, what they were really looking for was a more prominent hop flavor in the balance.  The bitterness presents later in the swallow, so by reducing the crystal and getting rid of the sugar as above, adjusting to be more hop flavor prominent will actually balance this beer better, whereas adding IBUs at 60 will only add bitterness, leaving the

A good heuristic for an APA is a 66%-75% BU:GU, which means at 1.053 you'd target around 35 - 39 IBUs. 
Compensate the IBUs by adjusting the 60 minute addition.  If you end up with some insanely small amt at 60 (like 3/16th oz), then make it a 1/4 oz and it to 55 or 50 so that you can keep a 1/4 oz minimum. 

Finally, absolutely listen to Martin on the water.


The Pub / Re: Jim Stoccardo
« on: March 12, 2017, 05:05:53 PM »
I just wanted to pass on an update on Jim.

He's doing extremely well. In fact, he felt well enough today to come and help out at the Seattle Region NHC bottle sort, helping to put label stickers on the entries (no lifting).

He says that they are looking for a buyer for his brewery, as he's simply not going to be able to continue brewing there while he recovers.

He looks great and is extremely thankful to everyone for all the well wishes and the generosity.


Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Kits taste off
« on: March 12, 2017, 04:56:41 PM »
The consistency of the bubbles in the left picture along with your description makes me think sanitation, too.

What did you use for bottles?  How did you clean/sanitize them?  I have found that Star-san by itself isn't enough to handle 50 bottles if I am starting with them labels-on.

What works best for me is to soak the bottles in PBW or OxiClean for a couple days to get the labels falling off or at least loosened up.  Then, I hand peel all the labels off and scrub the glue residue off, and hit the inside with a bottle brush. At this point, I' used to just rinses with water and go into a Star-san solution, but I've found that that just doesn't have enough oomph to kill all the wild yeasts in the air here (which latches onto the bottle labels and glue) where I live. So, rather than straight to star-san, I hit them with a 5 minute soak in a bleach solution to kill everything off then its rinsed very well before finally going into a star-san bath before bottling. Iodophor would work well too.

The Pub / Jim Stoccardo
« on: March 10, 2017, 04:03:09 PM »
Hi folks-

I wanted to pass on a request for help for my good friend Jim Stoccardo.  He's a Seattle area homebrewer-turned-pro, running a really nice little brewery called Outer Planet on Capitol Hill in Seattle.  Jim has been a great friend to the homebrewers in our area, supporting the competitions and providing beers for judging classes, etc. He's also still a member of my homebrew club and he still manages to come to many of the meetings.

About a year ago, Jim had to go in for triple bypass surgery.  Unfortunately, a couple weeks ago, it was determined that his body was rejecting the stents, so he was back in to get that fixed.  The costs are very steep (and given that his Nano brewery isn't exactly bursting at the seams with cash), and Jim could use some help.

Anything you can do to help a great guy and friend to the Seattle area homebrewing community would be greatly appreciated.


The Pub / Re: Rebel Brewer Closing Retail and Warehouse
« on: March 09, 2017, 08:16:27 PM »
They actually were a distributor too.  Most of the breweries in the area bought ingredients through them, until this happened.

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