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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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1
It was talked about during one of the NHC seminars that oxygen comes in with the hops and there is a risk of diacetyl formation when the yeast are cleared prematurely and in comes this extra oxygen. So that is one reason why some prefer dry hopping with active yeast but the biotransformations are another good reason to consider dry hopping as fermentation winds down. However, on the other hand, the yeast are going to strip out some of the flavor compounds when they fall out so that's a pretty good reason to crash first. If you wanted the best of both worlds maybe you dry hop at both stages.

2
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting some yeast
« on: July 02, 2015, 10:33:06 AM »
This is what I do pretty much every batch. It's the healthiest yeast in my brewing process and if spare yeast is going to end up in a mason jar anyway it might as well get there without going through the beer and all the other opportunities to pick up uninvited guests.

I see home brewers make this incorrect assumption all of the time. However, nothing could be further from the truth.  Unless one is performing aseptic transfers into wort that was autoclaved in the vessel in which the yeast is propagated and stored, pitching a starter from a starter provides little to no advantage from a contamination point of view over serial repitching from normal gravity (sub-6% ABV) batches.  Boiled starter wort is not sterile, and neither is a sanitized or boiled starter vessel.

If the processes compared are:

1. Make a starter, unload the starter liquid with some of the yeast into a sanitized mason jar; or

2. Make a starter, unload the starter into a sanitized fermentor, use sanitized bottling equipment to remove the beer, then unload some of the trub into a sanitized mason jar;

Then I hardly see how the first is a less effective method of yeast recovery if only because less sanitized, but not sterilized, equipment is coming in contact with the beer.

I'll agree with you that if the comparison is either of the above processes versus pitching new wort directly onto some or all of the trub from a prior batch then certainly that direct pitch is a superior process. However, when I brew I am almost never brewing another batch immediately after the next and often not brewing sequentially with the same yeast. So either way that yeast is going in a mason jar. I also have to store fermentors in an area where there is a lot of dust that finds its way to the exterior of the fermentors. These are screw top one gallon jugs for the most part. It's difficult to get them effectively clean to pour out the yeast without picking up an infection. I've tried with a near 100% success rate of picking up a very aggressive infection. Going directly from starter to mason jar has solved that problem. That's why I qualified my answer that this is the best option for my brewing process rather than insist it is best for all.

3
Beer Recipes / Re: Help
« on: July 02, 2015, 07:09:38 AM »
Steve is absolutely correct. I think part of why the brewers are so tight-lipped, in addition to the general market competitiveness, is that everybody is still trying to figure out what styles sell best here and when somebody strikes gold everybody tries to repeat that. The perfect example is Peticolas Velvet Hammer. While most of the country has moved on from the imperial red fad, that beer has practically been crowned the craft beer of Dallas--at least in the uptown area. When Velvet Hammer got really popular several of the local breweries rolled out imperial reds that were poor imitations (particularly Martin House's two mediocre versions). To a lesser extent, once DEBC dropped a couple IPAs that held up in the market several others popped up on the market from breweries where IPA doesn't fit in their line up(including Peticolas). If you have some secret sauce in this market you have to keep it secret.

I'm not a DEBC fan so I've never had this particular beer but I do know they have had some problems sourcing hops for their beers and at least early versions of Dream Crusher had a different mix of hops from one batch to the next. They may have figured out how to buy hops on contract. Maybe. You could look at the info on the website and probably get fairly close.

4
Ingredients / Re: Flour
« on: July 02, 2015, 06:58:30 AM »
He says in the same post:

Quote
I’d read (somewhere) that the proteins in wheat flour are especially foam-positive even compared to flaked wheat, so I wanted to give it a try.

http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2015/06/hop-juice-north-east-ipa-recipe.html

5
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Harvesting some yeast
« on: July 02, 2015, 06:55:55 AM »
PH levels make sense. Yeast is just so frickin expensive up here in Alaska. Just thinking of ways to save money. Is it possible to just make a starter 500ml bigger than needed and put that into a mason jar?

This is what I do pretty much every batch. It's the healthiest yeast in my brewing process and if spare yeast is going to end up in a mason jar anyway it might as well get there without going through the beer and all the other opportunities to pick up uninvited guests.

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast shipped warm.
« on: July 02, 2015, 06:48:58 AM »
I wouldn't be too concerned about dry yeast enduring heat. Remember that dried baking yeast sits out on shelves in the grocery store for an indeterminate amount of time and who knows what conditions they experienced before getting on the shelf. Ideally you want that cold-stored, fresh dry yeast but you are fine to use dry yeast with some age or less than ideal temperature experience.

As far as liquid yeast, perhaps plan on buying yeast once and repitching through the summer.

7
The Pub / Re: 10 Reasons Why the GABF Sucks
« on: July 01, 2015, 08:10:25 AM »
The biggest issue out of the list is the uneducated volunteers. I know it takes a lot of people to fill those booths but for breweries who are spending the time and beer to get into GABF it seems like a waste to not get maximum value for that space by having somebody from the brewery there who can at least answer some basic questions.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: dry hop pellicle
« on: June 30, 2015, 02:27:39 PM »
If a pellicle forms it's from a new microorganism hitching a ride on the hops or something that was already in the beer that shows up after you open the fermentor and introduce oxygen.

Is it a pellicle or is it just a layer of hop oils floating on the surface?

9
Ingredients / Re: Best Malt Brands
« on: June 30, 2015, 02:22:53 PM »
Best Malz here too. And I was using the LHBS Vienna but was getting a honey note from it. Found out he was stocking Gambrinus Vienna, so I made him order some Best Vienna.

You know it's the best because it's right in the name.

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What makes a lager a lager?
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:54:39 PM »
To perhaps add another wrinkle to the discussion is that prior to industrial refrigeration and yeast strain isolation it is thought that German brewers (and likely others) brewed with mixed fermentation cultures that would bottom ferment in cold months and top ferment in warmer months. These beers were lagered and sold continuously as the same style of beer. Did these beers go from being a lager to not a lager although always lagered?

11
Kegging and Bottling / Re: oops…
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:46:30 PM »
The 500ml bottles will be fine. I wouldn't think twice about those. The 375ml bottles are probably fine too but I would be most concerned about the standard 12oz bottles. They probably won't explode but I would store them somewhere that won't have large temperature swings and if an explosion occurs will not likely harm a person or pet.

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mashing Experiment
« on: June 29, 2015, 09:44:11 PM »
A split of 148 and 154 isn't so different that I would expect a significant difference in the mash. Often those step mash profiles go 148 to 158 so you're getting more alpha conversion. Your rest periods may also affect how each of those steps affect conversion (and other factors).

I tend to get mid-70s efficiency on single rest mashes around 154 but for saisons and similar beers I am usually mashing at 144-146 with a decoction to get up to 158 and my efficiency often approaches 90%. It creates a highly fermentable wort with is not always appropriate for all styles.

13
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low Volume Hydrometer - Any Ideas?
« on: June 29, 2015, 08:53:48 AM »
6-12 tests?

With Sean's excellent refractometer calculator I have very good results getting my refractometer to line up with a hydrometer. I've only tested a few times but I've never been more than 0.002 off which is as exact as I need to be.

14
Beer Recipes / Re: Comments and Suggestions for Gose
« on: June 28, 2015, 07:52:37 PM »
Yikes, 3 grams. I was going to use 14 grams and that was on the low end of what I've seen recommended. Some people recommend more than 28 grams for a 5 gallon batch!

No way I want to use 14 grams if 3 grams is even slightly noticeable.

I'll definitely post my thoughts as I go through the process and my results.

There's a lot of variables that go into determining spicing in these types of beer. Some people like them more aggressively spiced than others and that can play a tremendous role. Fresh versus powder can be a critical issue. Powder coriander is usually fairly old and has lost some of its potency by the time it is used. The type of coriander matters; Indian coriander is usually more potent than European coriander. Acidity will also play a role. The more sour the gose the more the spices will stand out in the same way adding acid to food brings out flavors. Three grams might be right for your beer but I would make sure I had more on hand to add if you find that volume is too light for your preferences.

15
All Grain Brewing / Re: Batch scailing help
« on: June 28, 2015, 07:40:59 PM »
The scaling calculator in beersmith seems reasonably reliable within 5-10 gallons as long as you do a good job setting up your equipment profile for whatever your small batch system is. You will probably need to tweak the boil off percentage the most, especially if you are using a pot that gives you more surface than depth in the kettle volume due to using too large of a pot. However, you'll figure that out after your first time or two.

The biggest problem with beersmith IMO is that the calculations round too much and the variance created by all the rounding grows to an unacceptable level when you scale from a large commercial volume down to homebrew numbers. Going from one gallon to ten gallons might give you an error of a couple ounces but fifteen BBL to five gallons turns into a half gallon of error. Add that beersmith is not designed to account for the changes in efficiency in mash conversion and hop utilization between commercial volumes and homebrew volumes and cutting 15 BBL to 5 gallons is unreliable. If you're just cutting a five gallon batch to two or three gallons then this is not an issue for you.

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