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Messages - reverseapachemaster

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling a sour for aging
« on: April 28, 2017, 08:28:48 AM »
Four months is too early for that beer. It still has some attenuation to go before it's at a stable gravity. I wouldn't start thinking about bottling until the eighth month but keeping in mind that it may not be ready until closer to twelve to fifteen months.

I also have the colonna corker, which is the cheapest corker that works for the mushroom top-style Belgian bottles. It has attachments for 26 and 29mm caps so it does everything. If you don't want to spend $80 for an occasional bottling then a cheaper route would be to get a red wing capper and the 29mm cap bell. You can cap champagne-style bottles with it. You could also get a hand corker for wine bottles and insert a straight cork before capping similar to lambic and some saisons. That route gets you to $40 or so (assuming you don't have a red wing capper already) and maybe it makes sense to spend a little more to be able to easily cork and cap everything.

Beer Recipes / Re: Grapefruit ale
« on: April 28, 2017, 08:20:41 AM »
I would use a large portion of grapefruit peel at flameout and then add the least amount of juice possible in secondary to get to the right flavor and acidity. You might want to thin the beer out a little with the juice and get some acidity from it but too much fermented citrus juice can result in an unpleasantly sharp acidity. The grapefruit peel will add the flavor but no color or acidity.

Beer Recipes / Re: Roggenbier for the summer
« on: April 28, 2017, 08:14:33 AM »
Unfortunately, there are some new steps to me -
    1. Rye can be gummy and difficult to sparge, so it benefits from a protein rest. Calculators I've used say for the recipe linked, 28 quarts should be at 147 F to get the first mash/rest at 122 F
    2. Decoction called for - 12 quarts - What's more important here, the total volume of the decoction, or the volume of water in the decoction:

    For "12 quarts of thickest mash" can I just drain and set aside 16 quarts, boil in my mash tun for 30 minutes, then add that drained liquid back?
1. You may want to use some rice hulls in addition to a protein rest for easier lautering. The protein rest will help though.

2. Seems like a more difficult process. You want to pull the decoction in the middle of the prior rest and bring it to a boil so it is ready to increase the heat of the mash as soon as the prior rest is over. (For example, in the middle of your protein rest you want to pull the decoction and bring it to a boil so by the time your protein rest is over the decoction goes right in to bring your mash up to saccharification.) What you suggest would add time to your mash while you pull part of the mash out and bring the remainder to a boil. You'd also have to account for heat loss in the portion you take out and for the heat remaining in the mash tun material after boiling in it. [/list]

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Red capper
« on: April 26, 2017, 07:57:54 AM »
The bell comes out of the red capper so it can be replaced with a 29mm bell for champagne-style bottles. If you never plan on capping 29mm caps then you could permanently fix the 26mm bell in the capper with a small amount of JB Weld or similar compound.

I also have a colonna which I love for capping 29mm and corking bottles but it's a PITA for 12oz bottles to move the base plate frequently. I always use my black wing capper for those.

All Things Food / Re: Pizza Time
« on: April 24, 2017, 08:10:33 AM »
I really want to build one.  I just need to move out of this awful HOA.  Neighborhoods are so over rated... my experience/opinion anyway.

Sent from my SM-N920C using Tapatalk

Is it that your HOA prohibits outdoor cooking structures? In my HOA I don't know if we've approved pizza ovens but we've definitely approved several built-in grills and smokers.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: IPAs and Me
« on: April 23, 2017, 07:48:31 AM »
I'd rather have a pale ale or a hoppy lager most times I crave a hoppy beer. Although IPA has never been my favorite style, I'm not anti-IPA and will drink them from time to time. Most of my beer drinking is 4-5% ABV so it's normally just not something I would drink.

The most dissuasive part of IPAs for me is that so many just chase the fad and many not so well any one stands out from the others. A tapwall half full of citra/simcoe IPAs of middling quality usually has me looking for something else to drink. A really well made IPA is a great beer but most breweries seem to be more interested in cashing in on the IPA fad of the month than perfecting each beer they release (which is not exclusive to IPA, either).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast
« on: April 21, 2017, 08:00:38 AM »
I remember discussing the strains getting axed at Wyeast but I didn't think 3726 was on that list. Too many breweries are switching over to it as their go-to saison strain (well at least some lab providing the Blaugies yeast). Maybe they said they wouldn't have more homebrew production because commercial pitches had consumed all of their stock at the time.

To OP's point I don't have anything to add from Wyeast's availability but people who like the Unibroue strain tend to love it deeply and you could probably find somebody who has some slurry they could share. If not here, maybe on one of the facebook homebrewing groups or HBT.

Both seem a little too clear for a Veil beer. Like maybe you need to add captain crunch and heavy cream to get that Veil character right.

I'd give it a few more days to see if the hop pellet particles will drop out. London Ale III is not a good flocculator. It stays in suspension and it's probably part of what is keeping the hop particles from dropping out. Time and cold are your remedies unless you want to sacrifice the hazy nature of that style. Personally I would give it another few days in the carboy and then bottle. Once it's carbonated stick the bottles in the fridge for a week or so and it will drop fairly bright.

Hop Growing / Re: 2017 Season
« on: April 20, 2017, 08:28:41 AM »
At the start of the season my Mt. Hood and Cascade exploded out of the ground as usual. This year I decided to try trimming the first round of shoots, which I have never done before. Now those two plants are growing pretty lazily while the Nugget and Sterling, which are normally slow growers, are outpacing them with longer and thicker bines with full mature leaves.

The Pub / Re: Songs you never want to hear again.
« on: April 20, 2017, 08:26:32 AM »
Anything from frozen, trolls, or sing.  Kill me please, with a 2/3/8 yr olds I am ready to go deaf... anyone else with me?

Can't relate to these but my younger brother is eight years younger than me and each summer from like 3-7 he would pick one Disney movie and watch the same one every day. Always seemingly when I was home in the hottest part of the day when you had no choice but to stay indoors.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bleach solution to kill yeast?
« on: April 18, 2017, 09:17:46 AM »
If Iodophor is breaking your bank, this may be the wrong hobby for you.  Also, why don't you just use StarSan/Iodophor and a bottle injector?  I just make up about a liter of StarSan and just use the injector on clean bottles.  I figured out how much StarSan concentrate I need for 1 L of water and use an oral syringe to measure it out (it's around 1.6 mL if I remember correctly).

Unless you're using pre-boiled water to rinse, you're undoing your bleach sanitization when rinsing.  And at that point, what is your time and effort worth?

Starsan is not as effective against yeast as bleach or iodophor.

Hop Growing / Re: 2017 Season
« on: April 17, 2017, 08:11:29 AM »
At this point the plants are established in the ground and you should get a lot of good growth.

I'm jealous you're in a place where EKG grows successfully.

Beer Recipes / Re: Puree versus juice
« on: April 12, 2017, 12:20:47 PM »
I would find one of the fruit purees used by brewers, like Oregon fruit, and see what the sugar content of the puree is and convert that to gravity. Then do the same for the juice and scale the juice volume up or down. It may not be a perfect match on flavor but probably a good starting point.

It's quite bizarre that one can follow as much or as little of the LODO process when the brewer says the beer tastes good but when the brewer says the beer is flawed any nit that can be picked is conclusive proof not enough of the process was followed to produce a successful beer.

Here is a good example:

The efficiency drop is due to the low mash temp of the Low Oxygen batch, which made it fall BELOW the gelatization temp for the malt.

A two degree difference in mash temperatures would not produce that significant of a change in efficiency. Even if it were on the bottom edge of gelatinization temperatures--which it isn't--it's not as though gelatinization suddenly starts and stops at a single temperature.

Obviously something caused the lower efficiency and the sulfur detected by the brewer--we can apply reason and facts to the discussion rather than self-serving statements of conclusion.

Ingredients / Re: Cascade and Chinook Terroir
« on: April 11, 2017, 08:10:43 AM »
I can believe it. Fuggles are the same way. In England and the US they taste earthy. Grown in eastern Europe as Styrian Goldings and they are a completely different hop.

The variance across the country opens a lot of doors to "new" hops and popular hop flavors in hops that have fallen out of favor. It will be interesting to see how this not only expands demand for locally grown hops but changes the market for patented varieties that are all the rage right now.

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