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Messages - jjflash

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1
Thanks Derek for your interest.
Here is the data:
First is Water Analysis Report from Ward Laboratories.



Bru'N Water V5.5











I did tweek this copy to a more realistic 1.25 quart / pound water to grain ratio to see if that made any difference.  Did not.  As before, perhaps I have made an error somewhere.  However, the cation / anion difference is 0.05 meq/L suggesting correct data entry.  It seems to me that Bru'N Water has an error in phosphoric acid calculations.  I use phosphoric acid 25%.  If I change the phosphoric acid concentration to 37% it seems to calculate a correct amount.  Here is the Water Adjustment Summary with phosphoric acid 37%:

 

Thank you everyone for your advice.
JJ

2
All Grain Brewing / 6 gallons of beer on the floor....
« on: March 24, 2019, 12:20:02 AM »
….on the counter top, in the drawers, in the cabinets, then the floor.

After you have been brewing for many years you figure you have made every mistake know to brewers.
Then one day you make a mistake you have never seen before.

Brewed 12 gallons of Tripel and split the volume into two glass carboys as usual.
One week later moved the carboy to pull the blow off tube.
I use Brew Hauler's on all my carboys - absolutely love this gadget.
Noticed a small amount of liquid under the carboy.
Figured I must of spilled some beer from the blow off.
Week later moving the carboy again and notice again a small amount of liquid.
This is not good.
Figure I will transfer the beer to another carboy to be safe.
Rigged everything up for the transfer and ready to go.
Now I transfer every liquid under 4-5 psi CO2 pressure.
Normally good technique, this time it was a bad mistake.
Slightly opened the CO2 valve and immediately blew the bottom off the carboy.



Six gallons of beer immediately poured over the counter top, into the drawers, into the cabinets.
Spent the entire afternoon cleaning up the mess.

I have used these glass carboys for many, many years.
My brewhouse has a concrete floor.
Now I have never slammed the carboys down hard on the floor.
The Brew Haulers really help control the descent.
However, they do tap the floor lightly.
I surmise this constant tapping over the years cause micro-fractures in the glass.
Not big enough to see when they are being cleaned.
Apparently enough wear through the years and they eventually fail.



3
Equipment and Software / Bru'N Water V5.5 & 25% phosphoric acid issue
« on: March 22, 2019, 08:52:23 PM »
I am need of help with Bru'N Water V5.5 issue with 25% phosphoric acid.
I have already emailed Martin last year about this problem.
He has assured me V5.5 is the most accurate version to date.
I have been brewing 25+ years and used Bru'N Water since V1...
Ran hand calculations for years prior to Bru'N Water's appearance.
I have run this brewing scenario multiple times with the same result.

The issue is V5.5 calculates considerably more 25% phosphoric acid compared to V4.2 for the mash
Here is screen shots of the Water Adjustment page of V4.2 and V5.5

Phosphoric acid volume V4.2 - 6.80 ml


Phosphoric acid volume V5.5 - 8.75 ml


The water data is identical in both versions.
The grain bill is identical in both version, Pils 25 pounds.

The second very odd occurrence is I re-downloaded V4.2 & V5.5 to retest this problem.
Now the sparge water calculation is off for both versions...
For years my water sits at pH 7.6
Have always used 2.8ml of 25% phosphoric acid per gallon of sparge water.
Now both calculations give 4.55ml of phosphoric acid per gallon.
Tried that and I get sparge water in the pH 3.2 range.
It is like all the calculations are off, or perhaps it's just me....

If any keen eye can spot a mistake I have made I will owe you a beer.
Thanks for your assistance.





4
Kegging and Bottling / Re: sour beer, kegging and beergun
« on: March 11, 2019, 05:11:00 PM »
I take no chances....
Separate kegs and separate beer gun just for sours.
All sour gear never touches any regular beer equipment.
You can never be too careful.

5
Kegging and Bottling / Re: bottling with beer gun to 4 vols
« on: February 14, 2019, 08:30:45 PM »
When I bottle it is usually at 3.7 volumes with a Blichmann beer gun.
Get the beer really cold - at least 35 degrees or less.
Put the bottles in the freezer, sanitized and covered with foil.
Expect quite a bit of beer loss despite these precautions.
Does the job but the beer loss still significant at these higher pressures.

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: canning sterile water
« on: July 27, 2018, 06:24:27 PM »
I make two cases in pint canning jars every year with pH adjusted water.
Always do them in my pressure cooker.
Use them mostly with yeast propagation.
Sterile water a must.


7
I have used a couple Chugger pumps in my set up for years.
I initially installer the center inlet style thinking how great it would be to have direct flow.
Son of a gun would constantly cavitate and no flow.
Chugger exchange me for the side inlet design and have had no cavitation issues since.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Prepping Whiskey Barrel
« on: June 12, 2018, 02:32:25 AM »
I have being using these Balcones barrels for years, currently have 10 in use.
These are high quality barrels and I have yet to find one that leaks.
However, the occasional rough barrel will make it through - my buddy had two.
These are freshly dumped and best used immediately.
That said, I too have delayed filling barrels.
I have filled them with beer and they leaked very slightly and promptly stopped within 24 hours.
If you acid wash the barrel you are stripping out valuable flavors you want to stay.
All that said I would agree with external water treatment to hedge the bet.
Keep everything else out of the inside is my advice.
Re-whiskey-ing is a great technique I use to extend the barrel life before exhaustion and being sent to the sour barrel collection.
Yes, these barrels will absorb and evaporate a large portion of whiskey introduced and left for a while.
When dry they are very porous.
I have used up to one-half a 1.75 liter bottle in just a couple weeks in some barrels.





9
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Does the pH of a starter matter?
« on: May 29, 2018, 06:00:23 PM »
The answer is it may possibly matter to you.
Depends what you brew, what yeast you use, and pH of your water.

Ideal starter pH is about 5.4
For an average beer with 1056 (no brainer yeast), it probably doesn't matter that much.
Most brewers overpitch yeast anyhow to be on the safe side.
However, if the goal is to produce the highest quality yeast starter,
best viability and best vitality - say for high gravity beer with delicate yeast strains,
it will certainly matter the wort starter conditions.

I have canned wort for many years and always need to adjust pH to 5.4 due to my alkaline water,
and the style of beers I brew and the yeast I use.  I underpitch and over-oxygenate to push these yeast hard.
These are beers with yeast driven flavors.
They need to be in A+++ shape to do this job well.

10
Ingredients / Re: Good belly lacto pitches
« on: April 12, 2018, 07:58:09 PM »
I use Good Belly for all my lambics and use the kettle souring technique.
Then gets racked to wood barrels for the next few years with Wyeast Roeselare.
Works great for me.

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Canned Starter Wort
« on: October 23, 2017, 09:58:39 PM »
12 gallons! That must take all day.

Yes sir, all day into the evening.
Making the wort is the easy part.
The pressure cooker takes the most time.
Heat it up, let it cool down, repeat, repeat, repeat....
Worth the time spent to me.
Forty eight quarts of starter instantly available all year.
Like last night, pulled a pint of yeast out of the refrigerator, added two quarts canned starter, placed on the shaker plate at 76 degrees, 24 hours later big yeast propagated, then into the refrigerator at 35 degrees.
Ready to decant and pitch for the following weekend.
Took only minutes to prepare the starter.
Trade off more up front time.


12
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Canned Starter Wort
« on: October 23, 2017, 06:21:03 PM »
When I make starters for canning I boil and skim off the hot break surface crud, then take it just past the hot break boil point.
This reduces the hot break in the canning jars considerably.
I pitch the entire contents of the canning jar into the starter.
Never had any issues with this technique.
I can 12 gallon batches at a time which lasts almost a year.

13
Equipment and Software / Re: Plate chiller cleaning
« on: July 06, 2017, 12:56:14 AM »
TM DESANAMAX is my favorite for my plate chillers, pumps, etc.

https://www.williamsbrewing.com/TM-DESANAMAX-P3368.aspx

14
All Grain Brewing / Re: Big dry Quad with mellow quad flavors
« on: June 29, 2017, 06:19:41 PM »
I brew almost exclusively big Belgian beers.
I have found that big Belgian beers using Belgian yeast need considerable lager time to mature their flavors.
Most will take 6 - 12 months to peak.
The other issue is Belgian yeast is very finicky, this is not the fool proof 1056.
Pitching rate is huge for flavor production for me.
My underpitch beers have much more / better flavor than my overpitch beers.
Fermentation temperature is big also.
Little temperature elevation at the tail end of acitive fermentation helps.
Yeast manipulation overall to me is more important for flavor than recipe changes for better flavor. 


15
I've got a BDSA made with D-240 and WY1768 on tap now.  I'd use the same fermentation for WY3787.  I start at 63F and keep it there for maybe 4-5 days.  Then I bump it to 70F and leave it there til it's done...maybe another 7-10 days.  Then crash it to 33 until it's ready.  Personally, I hate what happens when you go much warmer than 72.

I assume this means ambient temperature, rather than temperature probe in the fermentor??

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