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Messages - jeffy

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Equipment and Software / Re: BIAB Mash Recirculation Through Lid
« on: October 17, 2018, 04:21:53 PM »
No, you don't need to spray the recirculating wort.  When I do that I keep the outlet below the liquid level in the mash tun.  Yes, you need to throttle the pump volume.


I am planning on bringing a few samples to my clubs meeting this weekend for just that reason, but thought I would throw it out here as well.

One was a Marzen, Jamil's recipe from Brewing Classic Styles, one was the Can You Brew It Arrogant Bastard Clone, and one was a Celis Pale Bock clone from Austin Homebrew. In the mix as well I brewed my Pale Ale recipe, with no problems, and my Hefeweizen with no problem.

I do pitch the whole starter. I thought about decanting, but I thought part of the idea of a starter was to pitch active yeast and thought cold crashing would negate that, but I guess I could crash, decant and then maybe add a bit of wort in on the brew day to get it active again.
Pitching a whole starter... if you let it completely run its course, exposed to oxygen or air, then its oxidized and the yeast are done so there's no value to keeping the oxidized wort. If the starter has not run its complete course and the yeast are active and in suspension, its probably not terribly oxidized, and since the wort is full of active yeast in suspension, there is value to keeping/pitching the whole thing.

I wish we could have two separate terms for the two different methods, then we could know what each other is talking about.
I make my starters the morning of brew day and pitch them that evening. The whole thing. It would be foolish to treat my starters the way a person would if they were simply using their starters to multiply yeast cells by allowing them to complete their life cycle and drop out of suspension. Conversely, why would they want to dump flavorless oxidized wort into their beer?

In short, we call both methods a starter, but both do not have the same purpose or the same results
Jim, you already solved this elsewhere.  An active one like you do is a "starter," because you're just getting the yeast awake and going.  One that's completed and decanted is "propagation,"  because you're growing up a new supply of cells, no longer active, which need to start up again when pitched.  (What I do, and what I call it.)  All that's left is to popularize the use of these preexisting, perfectly sensible terms. Start a movement.  Or propagate one, either way.
They may think it's a Movement, and that's what it is, the klickitat jim anti-massacre starter movement? And all you gotta do to join is to sing it the next time it comes around on the guitar

With feelin'
You can get anything you want
At Klickitat’s restaurant

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend?
« on: October 13, 2018, 10:23:56 PM »
I have set up the brewery to make an APA tomorrow with Double Eagle Rustic malt, Munich II and a little cara rye.  I will use the same kinds of free hops from past Homebrecons as I did my last APA - Experimental grapefruit from 2014 and cryo hops to dry hop.  It worked out really well before.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: PBW vs Oxiclean
« on: October 12, 2018, 08:43:55 PM »
Effectiveness of any cleaner is a product of time, temperature and concentration of the active ingredient.   

That sounds like something a chemist would say about almost anything.

Well, it's pretty accurate for almost anything.
This kind of reminds me of what the speed shop asks the race car owner: Do you want it to be fast, cheap or reliable?  Pick two.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Crushing vs Grinding
« on: October 03, 2018, 03:29:35 PM »
I have my JSP running via an old treadmill motor (and you thought treadmills were only good as a clothes rack) and a car battery.  It turns really slowly.  I could probably watch and time the revolutions, but I never have.  In the twenty minutes it takes to mill 20 pounds of malt, I am busy doing other things.
One thing I have started doing recently is conditioning the malt with a little water.  It seems to keep the husks intact nicely.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Bottle Conditioning Question
« on: October 02, 2018, 07:30:19 PM »
Here's an old trick from Jeff Renner - mark the top of the liquid with a sharpie on the bottle neck.  As the beer carbonates, the volume will appear larger, few millimeters above the mark.  This may save you from opening a lot of bottles to check.  If it hasn't changed then it hasn't carbonated.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: 4 hours in the sun :D
« on: September 29, 2018, 03:29:06 PM »
I agree with the first two answers.  Skunking is a reaction that is immediate, but light has to penetrate the beer.  Also the amount of hops in the beer directly affects the outcome, so your porter may not be as reactive as in IPA.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Ball Locks vs Pin Locks, which is better
« on: September 26, 2018, 04:55:48 PM »
I have both and use them in different spaces.  Like Denny says, the pin locks are a little shorter and they fit better in certain places.  I prefer pin locks because they are impossible to mix up the posts like ball locks, and easy to be sure they are on all the way.  Ball lock fittings are not always easy to put on and take off.
Most homebrew devices are made for ball locks - carbonator caps, etc., but it doesn't hurt to have both kinds.

Beer Recipes / Re: Use for hops
« on: September 25, 2018, 02:50:12 PM »
I recently used some hops I got for free at a Homebrew Con a few years ago.  They were stored in my freezer vacuum sealed and called "Yakima Experimental Grapefruit" from the 2014 harvest.  The beer turned out great and tasted as if it had the correctly calculated IBU's.
So even four year old hops can be good if stored properly.

I don't think the amount of yeast has much to do with the level of carbonation.  That's the sugar's job.  You could put an entire yeast starter in it at bottling and it would only eat the amount of sugar that's in the liquid.  As Denny says, a portion of a package of dry yeast is probably sufficient if you think there's no yeast in suspension.  If the beer lacks Oxygen, dry yeast will supply enough of that as well.

Beer Recipes / Re: Low Alcohol Beer Ideas?
« on: September 22, 2018, 02:59:02 PM »
Hello. I'm wondering where people over your side of the pond are at when it comes to ABV, and low ABV in particular. Over here there was a spell when we thought over here that you over there are basically bonkers as you all seemed to drink incredibly strong beer all the time. That has changed a bit as stronger beer has crept in here via the American IPA/craft brewery revolution, and you seem to have discovered 'session beers'?

I live in Manchester and my all time favourite beer was the Boddingtons ordinary bitter of the 1970s, which was only 3.8%. It was fantastic. I've never been able to make it. It was ridiculously simple, so I'm not sure why it was so good. Pale malt and a bit of sugar/brewer's caramel, bittering hops and the brewery yeast strain, which they lost eventually to some sort of disaster and is not available commercially despite what some websites may say.

Anyway, are you brewing/drinking beers in the 2.5 to 4% range? We are getting breweries here making petite IPAs around 3% ABV. Some of them are good. And, of course, we still have our ordinary bitters (plentiful) and milds (more rare but still around). Or are your session beers more in the 4 - 5.5% range?

I'd say that "session" beers around here are generally 4.5% ABV, plus or minus a few points.  There are a lot of fruited Berliners in my area (Tampa, FL) that are lower, but other than that style it is unusual to see a <4% beer. 
I just found a Mild from a brewery in South Carolina, Edmund's Oast, that shows 3.5% and it is delicious.
My own brewing has gone to lower ABV in the past few years with APA and Pils under 5%.  I haven't made a big beer in years.

All Things Food / Re: Cured Pork Belly
« on: September 20, 2018, 09:21:05 PM »
Very nice!  I've been meaning to try this in my "spare time"

Why do you want it so hot?  Most ale yeasts make better beer in the 60’s.

Homebrew Competitions / Re: How long to wait on scoreaheets and awards?
« on: September 17, 2018, 07:46:04 PM »
If they used reggie (the software program) to run the competition, then your score sheets may have been scanned and are available to see on the program website.  When you registered, did you use reggie?
What was the name of the competition?
Also, sometimes if you say you're a member of a homebrew club, they give the medals and score sheets to a member of that club to take back to the next meeting.
Other than that, I am not sure what you should do.

Pimp My System / Re: My Professional Basement Brewery
« on: September 17, 2018, 05:17:03 PM »
What role do the BIAB hooks have for you?

I mash with a BIAB bag. I like the way it works so I get zero particulate coming though the pipes. I custom made my bag to have a finer mesh so I get some filtering as well. It also makes cleaning a breeze. Lift out bag and CIP takes over. No dumping, scooping, etc.
I was going to ask that as well.
Can you show a clearer picture of the domed bottom and trub shield?  It's so dang shiny I can't see what it looks like.

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