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Messages - Jeff M

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Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 15, 2014, 10:56:57 AM »
It looks like Radio Shack has 120V mini-neon lamps - that might be your easiest fix.  I can't tell for sure, but it looks like the assembly may include the resistor internally.


I originally looked at Radio shack and didnt see anything that i thought would work, do you have a part number? Ill grab one and try it out.


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation Timing
« on: April 15, 2014, 08:05:58 AM »
About 95% of my beers have a finished fermentation within 4-6 days.  I do a few things to help this along,  Aerate, Proper Pitch Rate, and proper fermentation temperatures.  the only things that take longer tend to be Bigger beers.

Ingredients / Re: Dry hops Prior to Finished Fermentation
« on: April 15, 2014, 07:30:39 AM »
Fermentation byproducts (ala CO2) Will blowoff the aroma of the dry hops.

All Things Food / Re: Growing food - The Garden Thread
« on: April 14, 2014, 12:09:46 PM »
Wow nice Greenhouse Jim, Got a parts list and schematics?:D

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Life just got a little bit better
« on: April 14, 2014, 11:28:34 AM »
Ive heard Rabbits are good in a Stew;)  Maybe season them with some hops?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Kids and Homebrew
« on: April 14, 2014, 09:45:18 AM »
Its the most important work!

Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 14, 2014, 08:12:03 AM »
Do you measure 120V at the the light?  Just asking to be sure that it is a 120V connection and not being dropped somewhere else in the circuit.


I attempted to use a multimeter on it, i believe it spiked to 3volts as i watched but im not 100% sure i was using the multimeter correctly. this was with prong on the wire before the bulb and the other on the ground wire.  gonna watch a few youtube vids tonight to make sure i was using it correctly and try again

Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 13, 2014, 07:19:16 PM »
Are these Neon bulbs still made? if so is there a "type" of neon bulb that it would be called that i could search for? Ill just replace the neon if putting an LED onto this system will be a pain. Im going to stop at radio shack and pick up a few LED's and a resistor to try with it either way. i think 1k will do it.

Equipment and Software / Re: Looking for electronics help
« on: April 13, 2014, 05:23:47 PM »
I don't think that is an LED. It looks like a neon bulb.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I suppose it def could be, i just assumed it was an older crude LED.  Its def much bigger then the LEDs im familiar with.  In that case id like to replace it with an LED:D

Equipment and Software / Looking for electronics help
« on: April 13, 2014, 05:04:35 PM »
So i bought an incubator online for cheap cash.  After cleaning it up and checking it out the only thing i cant fix is the LED indicator.  Its not very important but considering it should be a cheap fix why not.

The guts of the incubator

The Dead LED in question.

I dont see any marking on the LED or resistor.  Can anyone guide me through figuring out correct replacements?  The incubator has the following info on the back.   120 volts .2 Ampts 24 watts 50/60 Hz and 1 Phase.


I used to propagate from slant using a 10-fold process.

slant -> 10mls of autoclaved 5% (1.020) w/v wort (inoculated aseptically) -> 100mls of autoclaved 7.5% w/v (1.030) wort -> 1L of boiled 10% w/v (1.040) wort -> 19L batch

However, over time, I discovered that I could get away with using 30 to 40 milliliters autoclaved 7.5% w/v wort as my initial inoculum and step as high as 20:1 with no ill effects (this discovery was made long before "Yeast" was published).

slant ->  30 to 40 milliters of autoclaved 7.5% w/v wort (inoculated aseptically) -> 600mls to 1L of 10% w/v wort -> 13L to 19L batch

The current preoccupation with calculating the exact number of yeast cells needed to ferment a batch boggles my mind (the overuse of/overdependence on brewing software in amateur brewing also boggles my mind, but that is a completely different topic).  No two yeast cultures behave the same way when pitched into a batch of wort.  Only experience with a culture will let one know if one is underpitching.  Additionally, no yeast culture behaves exactly the same way when used in different breweries because a yeast culture's phenotype is the result of its genotype being modified by environmental factors.

Thats essentially what im looking for. im not looking for an exact way to calculate yeast but more a rule of thumb that can then be changed depending on how the strain reacts to my initial trials and batches.

For those interested. Here are the links for the sources.  I Found Kaisers website to be the most informative for basic practices and equipment needs.  After that it becomes..... Complicated.

Braukaiser - Start here and keep reading.

Docter MB Raines Writeup.  Informative and not super technical.

BKYeasts Lab equipment recommendations, starting at basic and moving towards Advanced

Wyeast's Info Site.  All kinds fo vague goodies here

A Guide to Yeast counting via Serial Dilution from Sean Terrill


Hi There,

So im currently research Yeast ranching and gathering equipment.  IVe been doing a lot of research and there seems to be a lot of conflicting information about how many times you should step up from a plate to a viable pitch, and at what volumes.

Lets assume its a 5G batch of 1.06 Beer.  Mrmalty at the default thickness/trub settings suggests a pitch of 107ML of Slurry.  Without Rinsing and cell counting we are making a big leap, but its theoretical after all.

Braukaiser suggests the following typical steps
10 ml / 22 C / 2 days    80 ml / 22 C / 2 days    300 ml / 10 C / 3 days 2000 ml / 10 C / 4 days    70 ml sediment

The Maltose Falcons website had a wonderful writeup from MB Raines-Casselman, Ph.D.  Doctor Raines-Casselman Suggestions that a 100-Fold system seems reasonable but most brewing colleges advocate 8-10-Fold systems with as small as a 4-Fold System
  4-Fold  10ML ----  40ML ---- 160ML ---- 640ML  -----  2560ML
  8-Fold  10ML ----  80ML ---- 640ML ---- 2560ML
 10-Fold 10ML ---- 100ML ---- 1000ML ----
100-Fold 10ML ---- 1000ML

Each step up assumes a 1-3 day propagation time.  Doctor Raines-Casselman suggests that a 100 Fold system is used initially at most breweries, but they go to smaller Folds as the yeast pitch becomes larger so something like
10ML ---- 1000ML ---- 8L ---- 32L ---- 120L

Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff Recommend the first step from a slant/plate to be a 30ml-50ml vial with a 1.020 Medium but does not go farther to suggest the next step.

Wyeast suggestions for larger fermentation's to use a 10-Fold system assuming you start with a large pitch bought from a Lab.  Something like 2L of slurry into 2 BBLs of Wort, into which you will add an additional 18 BBls of wort once 50-75% of the OG has dropped.

Obviously, there are a lot of Factors that play into this scheme, but im looking for tried and true suggestions from peoples experience.  I cant count cells yet and im trying to get a handle on processes.  Ill be plating Conan onto a plate soon to isolate it and id like to have a clue on how to move forward after the initial 10-30ml step.


Going Pro / Re: Biggest barrier?
« on: April 11, 2014, 07:33:36 PM »
I think the biggest barrier is knowing what you are getting yourself in to.  You need to be an Obsessive, OCD, Artistic, Workaholic with the ability to learn everything from Chemistry to microbiology and everything in between.   Money can be earned,Laws and permits can be granted and navigated, But knowing exactly what you are in for is, in my opinion, THE barrier.

Equipment and Software / Re: Recommend a Grain Mill
« on: April 09, 2014, 07:48:27 PM »
+1  All grain mills need cleaning and maintenance.  Take it fulls apart and wipe all the goop and dust off and give it a good lubing with mineral oil(ive used keg lub).  IF you have a barley crusher there is acctually an oring that is supposed to connect the driven roller to the free roller. replacing that will fix your issues.


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