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Messages - factory

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Question about batch sparge timing
« on: July 24, 2015, 09:30:12 AM »
I like it. And best of all... gonna knock a bunch of time off of my sparge. :)

+1!  I was taught to let my sparge water sit for 20-25 minutes to "settle out" and set the grain bed.  No more waiting, I'm just going to stir and go!

I've wondered if this would be an issue as well, more headspace and all.  Thanks for the replies.

General Homebrew Discussion / Copper in wort?
« on: June 07, 2015, 04:53:26 AM »
I've heard through various discussions and podcasts that using a piece of copper tubing or using a copper immersion chiller has certain benifits to wort prduction.  Does anyone know what those benifits are?

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: This is my first post!
« on: June 02, 2015, 08:51:08 AM »
Cheers y'all from Gaffney SC.  I look forward to learning from you.  Are there any fellow Upstate SC folks  on this site?

Frank Underwood?

^^ This is exactly what I thought when I read the OP.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Fermentation won't start
« on: June 02, 2015, 08:49:49 AM »
I just had the same experience with pitching 2 vials of WLP400.  No time for starter.  It took longer than I am accustomed to get going.  I don't know how common that is with this yeast.  It did finally "start" on about the third day, was finished out on day 10.

Pimp My System / Re: New base for my Schmidling Malt Mill
« on: June 01, 2015, 08:11:07 AM »
I have never heard of Seaboard, can you use a router on the edges?  Or did you just sand them down?

After my first batch, in every stage of brewing (wort, ferment, bottle), I have cleaned all equipment with PBW and rinsed well. Forgive me if this sounds like an idiotic question but.... I gotta ask!

Do I clean the equipment again just before use, somewhat of a secondary cleaning or was the initial cleaning that I did after brew day/bottle day sufficient?


I used to clean twice.  Now I do what most of the other posters do, clean immediately after brewing and then rise everything out right before the next use.  I have never had any problems with this method.

The Pub / Re: Good NHC Plane Book?
« on: June 01, 2015, 07:41:29 AM »
Kind of funny (to me anyway) that you rule out the two books that I would have suggested to you.  I just got both of them in the mail from Amazon, and started reading Modern Homebrew Recipes this weekend.

Sorry, I'm out of Schlitz. haha.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Newbie Questions - help please
« on: May 29, 2015, 06:15:52 AM »
So I am new to home brewing and have been searching for a clear answer hoping for some help. 

I am making a hard cider, well two batches but both ciders from preservative free store bought ciders.  My plan was to bottle the batches at the end since I don't have a legging system.  Here is my plan please let me know if it will be an epic fail...

6 gallons of cider using dry wine yeast cotes des blancs at 66 degrees temp and nutrient SG 1.054 in primary.  Will wait until just over 1.000 like 1.005 to rack to secondary.  From there I planned to wait about 10-14 days add sorbate and was hoping to back sweeten with local honey.   Once the cider clears I was going to bottle.

I am looking for a mostly dry, slightly sweet cider that is clear and carbed in a bottle.  My concern is that adding sorbate and then honey and bottling will result in a still hard cider. 

Is this true, can I sweeten slightly and still be carbed in a bottle?

The thing is, the yeast don't know when to stop eating. If you backsweeten with a fermentable sugar, the yeast will eat all of it leaving you with a dry, overcarbonated cider.

I haven't tried it myself, but the only way I know of to have a bottle-conditioned cider be both carbonated and retain some sweetness is to pasteurize in the bottle. I know I've seen posts on another forum from someone who has a procedure for this, but I can't quite remember where it was. I think the basic procedure was to let the cider ferment until it had the right amount of residual sweetness, then bottle with the proper amount of additional priming sugar to carbonate it. The bottles need to be monitored regularly for carbonation level. Once carbonated, he would heat the bottles in a hot water bath to pasteurization temperatures to kill off the yeast.

If the OP is adding potassium sorbate, that should kill off the yeast and halt fermentation.

Still, if you want to carb in the bottle, you will need to add yeast after adding the sorbate, so back sweetening would be difficult due to the yeast that produce the carbonation eating all of the sugars (thus drying out the cider).  I would suggest that if you want to back sweeten, don't use the sorbate,  and use a sugar alcohol like xylitol to back sweeten and use a little honey for carbonation.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Lines and Disconnect Cleaning
« on: May 01, 2015, 06:44:42 AM »
I built one of these.

+1, greatest little tool I have built as well, makes cleaning and sanitizing a real breeze!

I hate to say "me too", but I built one of these last year, makes everything so much easier.  Little bit of BLC and hot water followed by a hot water rinse and then star san.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Single Counter-pressure Bottle Filler...
« on: April 03, 2015, 07:25:04 AM »

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Racking to Keg Through Liquid Out Post
« on: April 03, 2015, 07:23:28 AM »
When pushing with CO2, do you have the fermenter sealed off and are you leaving the gas on the entire time (good)? When using the autosiphon, are you sealing off the fermenter (bad)? What pressure are you using to push?

Side note, be careful if using glass fermenters.

I was thinking you may have a leak on the fermenter side as well, or maybe not using enough pressure?

Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: C15L base malt?
« on: March 30, 2015, 11:14:28 AM »
I've steeped honey malt in a honey brown ale.  Just .25 lbs.  I could definitely identify it, so it contributed something as far as flavor goes.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Gelatin Fining
« on: March 13, 2015, 06:14:37 AM »
For adding it to keg:  1 tsp for every 5 gallons. Bloom in ~ 1 cup colder water for 15-20 minutes, then microwave for about 1:20 or so until it hits about 150F (that's what I've found with my microwave). Stir, then dump into cold beer.

I fine in the keg using this method.  Just plain old unflavored Knox gelatin.  I've had great success in clearing most beers.  I also have used Bentonite.  Follow the instructions on the package.  It's a PITA to get it to completely dissolve, but it settles nicely in the bottom of the keg and stays tightly packed. 

I prefer the gelatin fining though.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Starter Hot Break
« on: February 06, 2015, 07:08:01 AM »
I have never even noticed any hot break in my DME starters.

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