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Messages - flars

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experience from weekend brew.
« on: June 26, 2017, 06:58:11 AM »
I would use a nylon bag.  Like the paint strainer bags.  Muslin may swell too much and not allow free flow of the wort through.  The bag needs to be large enough to not become tight when the hop pellets swell.  I think(?) a one quart bag will hold 1 ounce of hops without becoming too tight.

I throw my hops in the boil kettle without bagging.  I pour from the boil kettle into a bucket lined with a fine mesh grain bag.  Tubing from this buckets spigot goes to the fermentor.  At the end of the pour lift the bag to drain the wort from captured hop debris.

2
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxidation? Is there any recovery
« on: June 22, 2017, 04:30:12 PM »
A pale ale bottled for 5 months may begin losing flavor.  Taste a SG sample and decide.  If you would decide to bottle leave the stuff floating on the top in the fermentor.

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Fermentation temp too low?
« on: June 22, 2017, 05:00:46 AM »
Uncover the thermometer before you do anything else.  The evaporation of the water from the t-shirt is probably cooling the thermometer more than the beer.  Tape the thermometer to the side of the carboy with some insulation over it to isolate it from ambient air temperature.

4
Beer Recipes / Re: Re evaluating hefeweizen hatred
« on: June 21, 2017, 04:38:21 PM »
Over pitching WY 3068 and fermenting cool will result in reduced banana and distinct clove flavor.  Under pitching stresses the yeast and then combined with a high fermentation temperature results in the over the top banana.

I only care for some banana when it is the background.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: fermentation: carboy or bucket?
« on: June 17, 2017, 11:10:31 AM »
I like glass carboys.  You can see what is going on and an unforeseen extended primary doesn't result in much risk of oxidation. 

I still use my original carboy from 1987 for big beers with very active yeast.  It is a big carboy.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Super Agata Capper Question
« on: June 08, 2017, 09:27:11 AM »
One of the possible problems may be the height adjustment is off.  Does the gap under the handle and the capper body close when crimping a cap?  When this gap closes all the force exerted on the lever is transferred to the capper body instead of moving the bell further downward.  I use plastic discs under the bottle to raise them higher.  I have the older button height adjustment Agata.  Some bottles are just a little shorter than others.

7
Kegging and Bottling / Re: priming individual bottles
« on: June 07, 2017, 10:14:54 AM »
During transfer to keg I would like to do a couple of bottles as well. I have a beer gun which is a pain for me to use with my setup and have not had much luck with. I have not bottled with priming sugar in quite some time. Any feedback regarding amounts of sugar per 12 oz bottle to reach 2.4-2.5 vols of CO2? Using some quick calculators it looks like about 2g table sugar per bottle.

Domino Dots are 2.29 grams apiece.  They will fit through the mouth of a standard beer bottle.  The Dots are 198 cubes per pound.

8
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast calculator
« on: May 30, 2017, 04:15:46 PM »
Something doesn't seem right.  Five gallons of OG 1.042 beer using Nottingham requires 18.93 grams of yeast.  Yeast cells required 94.6 billion.  I had always thought an 11 gram pack of yeast had more than enough cells for a low OG beer like this.

9
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Newb Mistake
« on: May 29, 2017, 07:35:07 AM »
Thanks for all the good feedback. I'm letting it percolate and see what happens:)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was the beer a save or a dump?

10
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Is this infected?
« on: May 27, 2017, 09:38:35 AM »
Might be yeast articles that haven't settled out yet.  Was this bottle chilled for a few days before opening?

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Starting to think about water
« on: May 27, 2017, 08:26:08 AM »
You will also need a comprehensive water report of what is in the water you are using.  Once you have that Brunwater will seem less complicated.  Wards Laboratories has a water test just for brewers.

12
After reading this post I have a question.  Could I take a 5 gallon brew kit, and split it in half?  What I mean is since you lose about 1/2 gallon of liquid during the boil, start with 2 independent kettles with 2.75 gallons in each, so as you have a total of 5.5 gallons, and after boiling be left with 5 gallons.  In one kettle you boil your specialty grains and hops, and in the other kettle you boil only the liquid extract.  Therefore, you get the maximum utilization from your hops, since the gravity of the boil won't be to high due to your boiling the extract in a separate kettle.  And you will still achieve the hot break in both kettles. After the required time for the boil, after flame out, and cooling both kettles, combine both kettles in the primary fermenter.  Why not just boil in a kettle large enough to accommodate over 5 gallons??? Because I only have a 5 gallon kettle, I want to experiment, and want to try to squeeze as much out of my hops as I can.

You can use two kettles.  Don't boil the grains though.  Grains are usually just meant for steeping unless it is a partial mash kit.  Boiling the grains will extract tannins.  It would be better to add extract to both kettles to have a wort of 1.040 SG in each.  Add half the hops to each kettle to optimize hop oil isomerization.  Fifteen minutes before the end of the boil add the remaining extract to both kettles.

YOu know what Flars. You may of just said what I needed to hear.

When I brewed the Kits. All of them told me to put the Speciality grains in the bag, put in the water and bring the water up to temp and then let it sit.

Would this have anything to do with the bitterness? Leaving the grains in the water and bring to temp. would that cause it to be bitter?

Because if leaving them in longer then needed time could cause bitterness, that could very well bee the issue I had.

What temperature do you brings the grains up to?  Do you move the bag around in the water as it is heating.

I'll begin with the bag of steeping grains in 2.5 gallons.  This is for a 5 gallon recipe.  I'll heat the water to about 160°F then drain the grain bag over the boil kettle in a strainer followed by a rinse of 1 quart of just warm water.  The rinse extracts more colors and left over sugars.

I have noticed that when the grain bag just lays on the bottom of the kettle while heating their is the noticeable sound of boiling.  Heat trapped under the bag may be raising the temperature of some of the grains to the boil point with possible tannin extraction.  I'll use my spoon to move the bag to prevent over heating.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hydrometer Temperature Accuracy
« on: May 10, 2017, 03:20:56 PM »
Hydrometers are most accurate at the calibration temperature.  As the temperature of the wort increases the accuracy decreases.

14
Thanks Brewin, I was thinking of dumping all into my bottling bucket, mix in a small amt of yeast & sugar, then rebottle.
Pouring you beer back into the bucket will oxidize it.  You could add one Domino "Dot" sugar cube to each bottle if available in your area.  Will yield about 2.4 volumes of CO2 in a 12 ounce bottle.  Each Dot is 2.29 grams.

15
After reading this post I have a question.  Could I take a 5 gallon brew kit, and split it in half?  What I mean is since you lose about 1/2 gallon of liquid during the boil, start with 2 independent kettles with 2.75 gallons in each, so as you have a total of 5.5 gallons, and after boiling be left with 5 gallons.  In one kettle you boil your specialty grains and hops, and in the other kettle you boil only the liquid extract.  Therefore, you get the maximum utilization from your hops, since the gravity of the boil won't be to high due to your boiling the extract in a separate kettle.  And you will still achieve the hot break in both kettles. After the required time for the boil, after flame out, and cooling both kettles, combine both kettles in the primary fermenter.  Why not just boil in a kettle large enough to accommodate over 5 gallons??? Because I only have a 5 gallon kettle, I want to experiment, and want to try to squeeze as much out of my hops as I can.

You can use two kettles.  Don't boil the grains though.  Grains are usually just meant for steeping unless it is a partial mash kit.  Boiling the grains will extract tannins.  It would be better to add extract to both kettles to have a wort of 1.040 SG in each.  Add half the hops to each kettle to optimize hop oil isomerization.  Fifteen minutes before the end of the boil add the remaining extract to both kettles.

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