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Messages - klickitat jim

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1
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Question about nutrients in starter
« on: December 02, 2018, 11:14:48 AM »


No law has ever been circumvented like the so called  Reinheitsgebot!  Stories abound about brewers "accidentally losing"  galvanized chain in the bottom of the kettle and "forgetting" to retrieve it.... 

So my galvanized boil kettle takes care of the problem? Check!

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Yeast Starter for High Gravity Ale
« on: November 25, 2018, 03:05:34 AM »
Even with a starter? Ever try step starters? I can make a starter, I suppose my question pertains to being sure you get enough cells for a healthy ferment without having too many

Yeah, the two packs of yeast goes in to the starter.  Stepping up is definitely another option.  For me it's just a time saver.  I'd rather use additional yeast in a slightly larger starter and be done with it.  Either route will work.  It's just about which one works better for you.

You can check out this link in regard to cell counts.  The site contains part of the chart from the Yeast book by Chris White and Jamil Zainasheff.

https://homebrewacademy.com/stepping-up-a-yeast-starter/

FWIW, I recently had dinner with Chris and told him about the SNS starter method.  He said it was a great idea and that "homebrewers are too hung up on numbers".  Take that as you will.
+100000000000

3
Fortunately you can have a beer with many of them right here, or while listening to podcasts.

My list would be Denny Conn, Drew Beechum, Keith Yager, Martin Brungard, Matt Chrispin, Steve Antoch, Tedd Hausotter, and a long laundry list of others...

By the way, welcome to the obsession!

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Yeast Starter for High Gravity Ale
« on: November 23, 2018, 06:39:39 AM »
I treat them the same as normal beer. Active starter pitched to oxygenated wort, but I add extra O2 after a few hours and again in a few hours.

5
Ingredients / Re: Identification - NEED HELP!
« on: November 17, 2018, 06:49:58 AM »
Japanese Wild Hop, not for beer. It's an invasive species. Or so it appears according to the Google

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Idaho 7 hops—wow onion/garlic
« on: November 16, 2018, 10:52:39 PM »
Depends on who the hop buyer is I guess. I'm quite certain Ted Hausotter of Hop Heaven personally selects his hops on site.

7
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Chilling Star San/Water Down for Bottling
« on: November 11, 2018, 10:11:30 PM »
I make a 5 gallon bucket of starsan using cold tap. I submerge about 6 or 8 bottles in it. I also use the starsan bucket to set my beergun in when I'm doing other things. Dump, fill, cap, repeat. Add more bottles, repeat. Seems to work just fine.

8
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dried yeasts and pH
« on: November 09, 2018, 09:07:17 PM »
I use 20ml sample cups.... condiment cups... for all things ph. I found that by the time a 20 ml sample reaches room temp it's not fizzing anymore. The idea is to measure the same every time.

9
Equipment and Software / Re: Me and pH meters are mortal enemies
« on: November 06, 2018, 11:38:14 PM »
I would unplug the battery for a few, rinse the probe with distilled, and rinse whatever sample cup I'm using for calibration. Then give it another try.

Also, I see your thermometer probe is in there. I suppose its possible its creating some trace current that could screw up your reading. Measure your temp and remove the temp probe, then use your ph probe and calibrate

Temp is important but keep in mind the accuracy of your meter, +/- .01. That's equal to about 5 degrees C difference. So you could know precisely what your temp is but your meter makes that level of precision irrelevant. Then for our purposes, really +/- .1 is not horrible.

10
Beer Recipes / Re: imperial porter - please help
« on: October 31, 2018, 12:18:23 AM »
Maybe sub the Munich in for the DME.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think my mash tun is big enough to get my gravity as high as I would like hence the need for DME. I suppose I could sparge more than once.
Maybe consider doing a Double Mash? There's a thread on it. Or listen to the Experimental Brewing podcast. Or look over my Full Monty recipe (pretty much explains Double Mash) and adjust your recipe to be the beer you want. https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/617251/-full-monty-

Thank you. I will look into it. I actually thought of that but remember being confused by the process for some reason. I'm not very bright...
Way easier than some make it out to be. If you can figure out how to use one amount of grain and two amounts of water, it's no more complicated to use one amount of water and two amounts of grain

11
Beer Recipes / Re: imperial porter - please help
« on: October 30, 2018, 03:01:56 PM »
Maybe sub the Munich in for the DME.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think my mash tun is big enough to get my gravity as high as I would like hence the need for DME. I suppose I could sparge more than once.
Maybe consider doing a Double Mash? There's a thread on it. Or listen to the Experimental Brewing podcast. Or look over my Full Monty recipe (pretty much explains Double Mash) and adjust your recipe to be the beer you want. https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/617251/-full-monty-

12
Beer Recipes / Re: Pale Ale refinement
« on: October 27, 2018, 01:27:54 PM »
I've increased the SNPA-ness in my APA by going with chinook early, cascade and centennial late

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: First HomeBrew at Day 11
« on: October 27, 2018, 12:42:15 AM »
Fermentation can really slow down at the end. For people who naturally carbonate I would suggest taking gravity readings at least 3 days apart before calling it terminal gravity. It's not easy to accurately see a .001 difference with the lines being .002 apart. If you prime for 2.5 volumes but it's still got 2 or 3 points to go you can end up with a problem. With bottle conditioning if you wait 3 days between same readings you reduce that concern. If you want to eliminate it, wait a week... and look for the beer to drop clear.

This is especially a concern with new-ish brewers. Let's say it is visually about the same gravity after 11 days, with just one day between readings. So you bottle it with priming sugar. Then, unknown to you, its contaminated with something that slowly takes it down from 1.010 to 1.000... you better wear gloves and eye protection!

14
Terminology is a matter of preference.  I don't like the term "finish" because if there are still flavors in the "finish", then your enjoyment (or lack thereof) truly is not "finished" yet.  The finish, to me, is 10 minutes later when I can't taste the beer at all anymore.  Then it's finished.

I don't think there needs to be any default negative connotation associated to either of these terms.  Could be positive, could be negative, could be in between.
That's why aftertaste and finish are not synonymous. Aftertaste means after you can taste it. Finish means those final flavors before you can no longer taste it. Unless you add "ed". Finished is the same as aftertaste. Finaltaste is the same as finish. Aftertaste is usually the same as pretaste, unless you are still experiencing the finish of something else.

15
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Diacetyl rest for lager’s?
« on: October 24, 2018, 11:55:05 PM »
If I ramped mine up after 10 days it would likely be done fermenting already. Time is a good method of when to ramp if your experience dictates it as such. With my lagers I know that I'm around 50% ADF at about day 4.

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