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Messages - haeffnkr

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1
I think vinegar and bleach = toxic gas.  Correct me if I'm wrong, but I wouldn't mix the two.

Source -

http://beerliever.com/bleach-no-rinse-sanitiser-home-brewing-beer/

The numbers Charlie Talley gives in the podcast are:
Standard bleach is 50000 parts per million of the active ingredient.
1 oz of bleach  in 5 gallons of water = 80 parts per million of chlorine
80 ppm is all you need provided you match it with vinegar (equal measures).  This should be white vinegar preferably.
So the ratio is 5 gallons water: 1oz bleach:  1oz vinegar.  Never mix bleach and vinegar together before adding to the water because you will produce chlorine gas.  This is why people are afraid to use bleach- people get scared, but if you mix the bleach into the water, and then add the vinegar, this is perfectly safe.  Personally I think this is simpler than the brewing process itself.

thanks haeffnkr

2
Yes, provided you follow the right procedure. I regularly use the same bottling equipment between clean, sour and brett beers. It's all plastic. No problems with crossover after sanitation. You need to use a base sanitizer rather than an acid sanitizer like star-san because a high ph will kill off bacteria and yeast but acid sanitizers are far less effective on yeast. Bleach is an easy base sanitizer. If you have idophor, that will also work.

I use 1 tbsp bleach to 1 gallon of water. Sit twenty minutes, then rinse with hot water. Soak in hot water with a crushed campden tablet per five gallons of water for twenty minutes. Rinse and let dry. The campden will remove the chlorine from the plastic so there's no carryover flavor/aroma from the bleach.

I have read that adding vinegar helps change the ph and makes the solution even more effective in sanitizing.
Do you add it also?

thanks haeffnkr

3
I use a scale and love it. Calculators exist to estimate the weight factoring for ABV.

Beer out the liquid isn’t the end of the world, but it will get your gas disconnects, and possible lines, dirty

thanks for the ideas.
I will try and setup something like the pic above and have a separate "spill over" keg with the spunding valve on it with dedicated lines as to not contaminate my serving gas lines.

Hoping the effort keep oxygen exposure very low and that will make the beer taste better, especially the hoppy ones.

thanks

4
I have tried a digital scale a while back... it was a pain and not real accurate and still had beer coming out the prv and or the gas port.

If beer goes out of the gas post for a bit Is it any worse then having beer go out the liquid side normally?
I originally thought that it was bad.... but not sure now?

thanks again haeffnkr

5
Are you carbonating in the fermentor?

No - in the kegs.

If the beer isn't carbonated at the time of racking, I don't know that there's any advantage to pressurizing the receiving keg. 

You could just purge it fully (by filling completely with sanitizer and pushing it all out with CO2) and then rack in through the liquid post while running some tubing off the gas post into a container of sanitizer.  It helps with the purging if you trim the gas dip tube.

This is what I want to do and is shown in the pic.
How do you know when to stop filling the keg before beer shoots out the gas tube?

thanks

6
Are you carbonating in the fermentor?

No - in the kegs.

7
NO -- I have ruined MANY batches using permanently contaminated plastic buckets.  Need to replace them every so often, or switch to glass or stainless.  Some plastic maybe can be sanitized, but some can definitely NOT.  It's just not worth the risk.  Replace and be done with it.

This is not entirely true.  I've had an infected batch in a better bottle and have used it many times since.

You need to take care when cleaning and sanitizing to be sure you're thorough and also to make sure you're not scratching the plastic.

I personally would not switch back to glass.  Not worth the risk IMO once I cracked one real good while cleaning it.

Did you also use a bleach solution to recover the better bottle?

thanks haeffnkr

8
Hi,
I want to do something like this and push beer from my fermenter into pressurized kegs.

http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?11353-Corny-keg-filling&s=2e7b3fe7c05914f008df30c335d08b3e&p=32961#post32961




Is it OK to fill the keg until beer comes out the gas post?  Seems not very sanitary??

Any other ways to fill a pressurized keg besides a scale? Of course you need a spunding valve to release the pressure.

thanks haeffnkr


9
thanks guys... I figured to replace but wanted to be sure I was not missing something.


To Note - the bad beer was not coming from the fermenters, as I had one batch go bad in a brand new fermenter.

thanks haeffnkr



10
Hi,
Like the topic states....
I have had a bad run this past summer and have had 4 batches that have gotten just a bit of belgian/lacto/funk in them. 

I have these nice plastic 14 gallon fermenters w/ screw lids that cost $40 a piece.
Can you bleach bomb or whatever else a plastic fermenter to get it sanitized again or is the recommendation just by new and forget about the old ones?

thanks haeffnkr

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White labs pitch rate?
« on: September 20, 2017, 08:26:18 PM »
I have been told by a white labs rep that viability in a pure pitch pack after six months stored in a fridge is 75%. That might be optimistic,  but your viability might still be better than 40%.

Also, white labs publishes qc data including cell counts for each pack of yeast.  You will need the lot numbers from your packs of yeast. They may have started off with way more or less than that 100 billion cells.

https://www.yeastman.com/Login/Public/Report/PublicLabQCResult.aspx

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have  still not used this yeast.... as life and kids get in the way of my brewing....

So the report shows
Results from 2 lots are are -

For Lot #1034385
QC Release Date: 1/25/2017
Homebrew PurePitch® Best Before: 7/24/2017
WLP940   Cell Counting   2.83e9   adiaz
2 packages


For Lot #1034606
QC Release Date: 2/1/2017
Homebrew PurePitch® Best Before: 7/31/2017
WLP940   Cell Counting   2.83e9   adiaz
I have 1 package of this.

???
I still make a 2 gallon starter?
Viability is ?

thanks Kevin







12
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White labs pitch rate?
« on: August 31, 2017, 09:56:58 PM »
You need about 850 billion cells for a proper pitch. That's 45.4 liters x 1.5 billion cells per liter multiplied by 12.5 degrees Plato(1.050).  With the yeast being 4 months out from its production date You can figure about 40% viability which would mean around 40 billion cells in the packet, assuming the packet started at 100 billion cells This estimate errs on the safe side.

This calculator will help you figure out what you need in the line of a starter.
http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php

Thanks... This is a nice calculator.

I appreciate all the feedback guys.
Yes a 2 gallon starer with 2 packs is close to what the calculator says.

I usually step up a fresh pack in 2, 1 gallon starters and try to pitch the second one at full krausen which also aligns to the calculator.
I thought the pure pitch packs might have had more cells to start with and would have been closer than to the total I needed and I had no idea the yeast falls so far so fast after the production date.

thanks for all the help.
Kevin

13
Yeast and Fermentation / White labs pitch rate?
« on: August 30, 2017, 08:46:24 PM »
Hi,
I am on the fence of whether to build up a starter or not for my 12 gallon lager.

I read somewhere 1.5 billion per liter for a 1.050 lager for a pitch rate?
So at 1.5 billion per liter lager pitch rate at 12 gallons = 45.4 liters X 1.5 = 68.1 billion cells.

from Whitelabs site -
https://www.whitelabs.com/innovation-homebrewers

Although the PurePitch® packages state a cell net volume of 40 mL, actual volumes range from 40 to 50 mL.

In our production, we allow for cell counts of 1.5 to 3.0 billion per milliliter which will produce 60 to 120 billion total cells if 40 mL. We target the high range of cell counts and fill volumes in our production and packaging processes, however as stated above, the reality of cell biology is that those numbers will vary.


At it says here that 2 packs is what you need for 10 gallons of wort - https://www.whitelabs.com/resources/homebrew-starter-tips

So If the pure pack packages for WLP940 lager yeast says it has 100 billion cells per pack, 2 packs should be more than enough right?

But... what if the local brew supply places have yeast that best to use by August 1 and it is now almost Sept? use 3?

hope that all made sense
haeffnkr

14
Thanks for the good suggestions.

Kevin

15
Yeast and Fermentation / 3 piece air lock keeps blowing out sanitizer
« on: August 28, 2017, 11:07:48 AM »
Hi,
I have been using a 3 piece air lock with starsan in it for a while,  The airlock assembly is in the stopper in my 14 gallon fermenters.

During the first few days of active fermenation the starsan bubbles all out of the air lock and I have to keep adding more and have the fear it blowing it all out and allowing air into the brew. I usually dont have a yeast blow out problem.

Is there a better air lock design or should I just use a blow off tube or any other suggestions to keep a safe amount of starsan in the airlocks?

thanks Kevin

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