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Messages - haeffnkr

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Ingredients / Re: grams per gallon of "Trifecta mix"
« on: December 15, 2018, 01:06:47 AM »
I was able to open Excel on a trial basis and to input into the spreadsheet. Looks like I was looking at it right and there is a higher amount total going into the mash. At 30ppm for SMB in a 7.75 gal mash that amounts to around .87g each for SMB and AA, and .2g of BTB.  A total of 1.94 "Trifecta mix" going into the mash.  Thanks for the help Frank. By the way my Grandmother was born in Brussels, her family came to US during the first World War.    à votre santé , Mike

If you have all components separately (BtB, AA, and S/KMB) then you're best off picking your level of sulfites first (10ppm, 20ppm, 30ppm, whatever).  Once you know that amount, use the exact same amount of AA since they work in conjunction with each other.  Finally, use the widely-stated amount of BtB in your mash, and decide if you should use any in the boil.  The general feeling about where or not to use any in the boil is that if you have copper/iron somewhere in or after the boil, then use BtB in the boil as well at the widely-stated amount.  If you don't have copper/iron anywhere during/after the boil, then forego the BtB boil addition.

I would personally recommend a lower starting amount of sulfites than 30ppm if you're using any methods or processes that help mitigate oxygen ingress (15-25ppm).  If you're making no other changes to your system/process then 30ppm should be fine.

I found this thread after searching for hours last night trying to get instructions on how to add the trifecta.

Is it really this simple?  I was thinking I had to use all kinds of math to get the percents of each ingredient and then it would add up to 100% based on total grams needed... very confused.

My friend found the sheet somewhere, not not on the lodo sight....
You set the ppm number, find your water volume and add the number in grams of both SKM and AA.  Then use the BTB tab to do the same based on your desired dosage number of gh/l ??

thanks haeffnkr

I think there some benefits, most of what you list. Most may be hard to quantify.  For me, a mash return manifold helped my mash temps converge and stabilize more quickly. I'm using this product and found it to be a decent value, easy to clean, have robust construction.

I am looking at this manifold as well.
Does this or similar manifold help clear the wort faster with a dispersed flow that filters with less disturbance to the grain bed? ( making some assumptions here :) )

thanks haeffnkr

Equipment and Software / recirculated mash return - manifold vs nozzle
« on: December 06, 2018, 03:57:21 PM »
Is there any benefit to mash efficiency, temps throughout the MT, better/less grain bed channeling, or any other reason to have a manifold with a lot of holes ie nozzled, loc line type wort return to gently disperse the water evenly over the grain bed, under the wort level of course VS a sweeping bend or maybe 2 out of center tee fitting that recirculates around the outside of the MT .. sort of a mini gentle whirlpool over the grain?

thanks haeffnkr

All Grain Brewing / Tell me why this mash setup is a bad idea :)
« on: November 17, 2018, 02:51:19 PM »
Looking for feedback on this crazy idea.

Concept -
Put a smaller diameter MT pot inside a bigger pot that radiates heated water completely around the MT and put a HERMS type coil in the heater water as well.  Mash is pumped continuously and is full volume.

These pics show the concept a little better.

The big pot has an electric boil coil in it for heat, it is not a HERMS coil.  The MT ( keg in the pics ) would sit inside of the big pot full of grain, false bottom, etc.
I would bottom drain through the big pot, piped to a pump.  The wort pump would push the wort back through a herms coil in the water column and back over the grain.  Continually recirculated.
I would use my same controller to heat the boil coil water column to my desired mash temps.  The setup would be CIP. I already have most of this. I would just need to fab the drains.  I would for now, heat strike water in my eBK then pump to the MT and switch the 30 cord and use the same controller.

I am thinking this is a good idea.  But I want others to tell me why it is not.
I would think rapid step mashes, no scorching. Gentle heat to wort.

Or I could build a long, ULWD cartridge heater RIMS.  I would need separate controller, lots of stainless parts, etc.
I just want something that works and can be left somewhat alone during the mash time and can handle full volume mashes, is simple and is not 3 vessel :)

I currently , 2 times so far, used my gravity drain cooler setup and it worked OK as well. I am heating the wort in my eBK and recirculating up to the cooler with the small wort pump then gravity back down in the eBK.
My the temps in my MT do not ramp very fast to the set temps even though the recirculated mash is at my set temp coming out of the pump. Trying to keep 2 vessels covered to limit oxygen intake is a challenge as well....thus my desire to mash in on pot.  My herms hybrid would eliminate that I believe as the whole MT would be surrounded by set temp radiant water and I have one pot.  But so would a nice RIMS setup. 

Current cooler setup
I am trying to build around my eBIAB CIP pot.

Any way.....I
More thoughts?

thanks for looking

Thanks for the replies guys.

Thinking about a 70 qt cooler to keep the temps a little more consistent between the kettle and the mash cooler.
This would also be big enough to do a complete no sparge mash for 12 gallon batch.

When you are done mashing do you fill the mash tun and let it all drain into the kettle and start heating?
What efficiency to you get doing continuous sparge?

thanks haeffnkr

I have found a few electric K-Rims setups and they all seem fairly straight forward.  Heat the water in the the eBK and pump it up to the mash tun, gravity feed back to the eBK, continue.... They are doing continuous sparges.

Besides having the pump output valve cracked open, any tips or tricks to getting the flow right to doing a continuous sparge?  I assume the temp probe should be at the the input of the MT but if the water is heated in the BK there is a temp loss to be considered.

Anything else to consider?

thanks again haeffnkr

I have a nice eBIAB system, it works fine but I am tired of cloudy wort and average beer.
I usually brew 12 gallons so I get 10 gallons of beer after fermentation.

I am want clear wort, so I want to try a no sparge (continuous)  type mash and drain/filter the wort through the grain bed.
I also have a march pump.

Looking at building something like a Blichman breweasy system or ???
What can I build/add to get something with the ease of eBIAB but clearer wort.  I want to be able to do a step mash/ramp up as well. I want some sort of RIMS setup I guess I am saying.

If I added another pot, the mash tun, with a false bottom, have it gravity feed back into my ebiab pot and pump it back up into the top of the mash tun, with float switches and a valve on the output of the pump would this work?

Is there a simpler, better way I am missing to get the ease of eBIAB and clear wort?

EDIT - looks like something that I am trying to build is called a kettle rim or K-RIMS setup? Any tips for continuous  sparging with this setup? Where to put the temp probes?

thanks in advance

Equipment and Software / Re: propane solenoid - source?
« on: September 04, 2018, 11:34:29 PM »
thanks for the replies thus far.

I found out today that the high pressure propane regulator is 10 psi.
A lot of the gas valves are in CW or .5 psi... really low pressure.
Will any of them hold 10 psi?

If not I am not sure what other options I have.

I was looking at mechanical gas fryer control valves... but again .... they are rated at .5 psi.


Equipment and Software / propane solenoid - source?
« on: September 02, 2018, 01:26:12 PM »
Looking for a cheap propane solenoid that I will control with a PID, any suggestions?

I found this one... I think the cheaper/generic valves for water/air wont operate due to low pressure of the input propane?  The propane I will push will be coming out of a "high pressure" propane regulator.   Not sure if that will be enough to have the solenoid operate correctly?

Looking to have a pid control a solenoid that is swithing propane to run a deep fryer :)  - I will have a continue pilot light as well in the system.

thanks in advance

I will be around it most of the time so

Thanks guys for all the replies !!!

I am going to whirlpool.
My process is going to be add the chiller, put on the lid, with the inlet, exit hoses handing out and start the pump.
Cool to temps and take out the chiller, put on the lid,  whirlpool again for couple minutes then let the kettle set a while then drain to the fermenter.

Please let me know if that is a problem.

thanks haeffnkr

Folks who use an immersion chiller.... how do you seal the kettle?
- notch the kettle lid?
- no lid when chilling?
- starsan soaked rag to cover the kettle/cracks/cutouts in lid?
- bulk head type fittings on the inside of the pot?
- chiller mounted to the lid with bulkhead fittings on top of lid?

Just wondering what others do?

thanks in adavance

Equipment and Software / Re: Help me pimp my new kettle
« on: March 08, 2018, 07:10:57 PM »
Thanks for the response.

Any other thoughts on the placement of the pump intake and output ports on the kettle?

thanks haeffnkr

Equipment and Software / Re: Reverse Osmosis pressure tanks
« on: March 06, 2018, 07:47:31 PM »
I do not have a pressure tank on my ro/di system.  Make sure you have a float valve shut off on your output line, I just clamp mine to the side of the buckets as I fill them. Then I always have water ready to brew and not all over the floor.

Equipment and Software / Re: exaust fan
« on: March 06, 2018, 07:44:04 PM »
How close is your boil kettle to the hole in your wall?
The close the better. I just have a box fan in front my my basement window and it works great.  You have to have a big hole in the wall with a big fan low amount of turns to get the exhaust to work.
I tried it once and it was a failure, thus moving my kettle to the window.

good luck

I have had a electric system for years no regrets... best decision I ever made.

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