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Messages - jared long

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1
+1 on denny's suggestion of using the 3787 strain.  i have a lot of friends who prefer the 1214 strain, but i, personally, find it way too estery.

good luck!

2
General Homebrew Discussion / wyeast 3278: lambic blend
« on: July 24, 2011, 07:54:58 AM »
greetings...

i'm about to venture into the realm of the funk and uncertainty: sour beer.

just ordered in a pack of of 3278; i'm wondering what general advice anyone has for this strain.  some specific questions i have include:

1) how long until this yeast sours?
2) is racking from primary to secondary necessary (if you do so, will you bring the bugs with you to continue souring)?


any other thoughts/advice would be much appreciated.

best,
jared

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blichmann Beer Gun
« on: May 24, 2011, 12:20:33 PM »
i did pre-chill the bottles.  also, i'm not sure that would explain why air is being introduced at the keg.

from consulting a carbonation chart, my guess is that i'm carbonating my beers to an excessive level, which brings up another question: how do you achieve your (proper) desired carbonation level quickly?  my sense is that the crank-and-shake method would result in an excessive (and unpredictable) amount of carbonation.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Blichmann Beer Gun
« on: May 24, 2011, 09:53:28 AM »
ya, i'm using the smaller diameter, 10' line that the gun came with. 

is it possible that my source kegged beer is overly carbonated?  i'm having trouble filling bottles without getting a ridiculous amount of foam.

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Blichmann Beer Gun
« on: May 24, 2011, 09:38:30 AM »
greetings!

i just got done with an extremely frustrating session with my newly purchased blichmann beer gun.  somehow, i'm getting air bubbles in the line right at where the beverage ball lock attaches to my keg.  i'm certain that all my connections are tight (hose clamps, etc.), i let all the pressure off the keg and am pushing the beer into the bottles with minimal pressure (~3 psi). 

for the life of me, i can't find out where the air is coming from.  any tips/ideas would be immensely appreciated.

thanks much!

6
thank you for this very thoughtful reply.

i realize that, given no specifics about my water, it would be hard to make a recommendation.  having said that, how would you treat water that is characterized by high alkalinity and has lots of temporary hardness?

cut it with distilled water?  simply add acid?

thanks,
jared

7
interesting.  so, if i'm not racking my brewing liquor after pre-boiling it, i'm not accomplishing much, am i?

i think it's about time i get a water analysis....

thanks much,
jared


8
General Homebrew Discussion / adjusting mash pH post dough-in
« on: April 26, 2011, 12:38:03 PM »
this earlier discussion regarding target mash pH (and using mash 5.2 to achieve this) got me thinking...

if i were to skip using 5.2, take a reading after dough-in and found that my mash pH was off, could i adjust at that point?  if so, what with?


9
where can i find "martin's spreadsheet"?

i'll be the first to admit that i don't have a sophisticated understanding of water chemistry, but i'm trying to ameliorate this glaring deficiency.  from what i've been told, our water source where i brew is characterized by temporary hardness.  my typical regimen is to run my brew water through a charcoal chlorine filter, pre-boil (to drive off bicarbonates), then brew with it.  it's hard to say what my mash pH would come out as, since i always use mash 5.2 in the tun (and consistently get a pH reading of 5.2 in my mash).  

does my regimen seem reasonable?  

anybody out there with a similar water profile that would suggest otherwise?

much appreciated,
jared

10
greetings!

i'm really enjoying the "brewing better beer" book -- one of those reads that compels you to reassess your entire process!

one question, among several, that the book has raised for me:

gordon suggests treating his brew water with calcium chloride and calcium sulphate.  i've been using mash 5.2 in my tun to achieve my target pH.  does this negate the use for calcium chloride and calcium sulphate, or would using these still be beneficial?

what are the pros/cons of using mash 5.2?

many thanks,
jared long

11
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Feremenation - WYEAST 1214
« on: March 25, 2011, 02:33:00 PM »
ya, i'm frustrated by this.  i was just trying to do the "natural temperature rise", albeit artificially, and overshot my target.  those brew belts (in my experience) are very unpredictable.


12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Feremenation - WYEAST 1214
« on: March 25, 2011, 12:19:29 PM »
it had been in primary for a total of 8 days.  the last day and a half is when it was at the high temp.

13
General Homebrew Discussion / Feremenation - WYEAST 1214
« on: March 25, 2011, 11:12:06 AM »
Greetings!

I had a brew belt hooked up to my fermenter during the last two days of primary.  When I checked the temp of the beer, it read 82 degrees (too warm?).

I was planning on using the yeast cake again for a brew session tomorrow, but am now questioning the viability of the yeast after noticing this high temp.

What is your opinion -- did the high temp at the end of primary ruin the viability of this yeast?  Use it again?

Many thanks,
jared

14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Denver Folks
« on: January 19, 2011, 08:18:28 PM »
two choices: argonaut (on colfax) or daveco liquors (north of denver, just off I-25)

15
Equipment and Software / scratch inside mash tun
« on: December 04, 2010, 02:38:54 PM »
despite diligent efforts to avoid scratching the inside of my mash tun (gott cooler), i've noticed a couple of small scratches.  is this something to worry about?

many thanks...

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