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Messages - 1beerbaron

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So we were running in to this issue in our club.  I was president this year.  I tried to work past it by implementing some structure to the club (we had a board) by adding a few committees and have a structure in the meeting.  In our meetings, any club business is done first, then whatever the meeting topic was, then tasting.  Tasting is always last.  Basically we started forcing people to treat it as a homebrew club rather than a drinking club.  All of the members that homebrew even remotely regularly really wanted that, but didn't know how to go about it.  The members that treated as a drinking club, well they don't have enough commitment to stop the changes.  They just stopped coming.

We charge $25/year.  We had 16-17 paid members this year.  I think you should charge $20-$25.  It doesn't have to be much, but some sort of charge makes people at least a little committed.  This also means that you can only allow paid members to have voting privileges.  Then you end up with at least a bit of money to spend on things.  Most of ours has gone to some commercial beer for style showcases.  We're still working out the kinks, but we're definitely moving in the right direction now.  Most of the homebrewers just need someone to show them that it can work.

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I think I have to have this....
« on: August 16, 2017, 07:26:58 AM »
So when the probe needs replaced do you have to replace the whole thing?

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: NE IPA Yeast options?
« on: April 21, 2017, 04:45:18 AM »
You need a strain that can convert hop glycosides when dry hopped during fermentation.  Unfortunately, there is not much information on which strains do this.  I think that is why people tend to stick to a few strains.  It is strain dependent and they know those few strains do it.  I don't think US-05 does it, so you'll never get quite the right character with it.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bleach solution to kill yeast?
« on: April 18, 2017, 11:59:45 AM »
If Iodophor is breaking your bank, this may be the wrong hobby for you.  Also, why don't you just use StarSan/Iodophor and a bottle injector?  I just make up about a liter of StarSan and just use the injector on clean bottles.  I figured out how much StarSan concentrate I need for 1 L of water and use an oral syringe to measure it out (it's around 1.6 mL if I remember correctly).

Unless you're using pre-boiled water to rinse, you're undoing your bleach sanitization when rinsing.  And at that point, what is your time and effort worth?


Starsan is not as effective against yeast as bleach or iodophor.

So use Iodophor.  You still can figure out how to make smaller quantities.  My point still stands about rinsing after using bleach.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: What to do with a spare 1/2 gallon?
« on: April 18, 2017, 07:59:02 AM »
What about the caps that have ball lock connectors and screw on to 20 fl oz and 2 L pop bottles?

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bleach solution to kill yeast?
« on: April 18, 2017, 07:40:01 AM »
I've started soaking bottles (and fermenters) in Idophor solution after experiencing some late shelf life gushers.  But idophor is expensive and bleach is dirt cheap.  What is a good beach solution that would kill yeast?  And what is a minimum soak time to do the job?  Also, will a good rinse in tap water and drain dry then a couple shots with Starsan in the Vinator just before bottling clear out any chlorine residue or taste?

If Iodophor is breaking your bank, this may be the wrong hobby for you.  Also, why don't you just use StarSan/Iodophor and a bottle injector?  I just make up about a liter of StarSan and just use the injector on clean bottles.  I figured out how much StarSan concentrate I need for 1 L of water and use an oral syringe to measure it out (it's around 1.6 mL if I remember correctly).

Unless you're using pre-boiled water to rinse, you're undoing your bleach sanitization when rinsing.  And at that point, what is your time and effort worth?

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: hot, young beer
« on: September 25, 2015, 02:08:56 PM »
Let it sit.  Assuming it's not just loaded with fusel alcohols.  My best example of this is my first batch of mead.  For the first year, it was so alcoholic.  Undrinkable.  During the second year, the alcohol was fading and it was becoming more drinkable.  Just hit year three, and wow, it's pretty tasty now.  I thought I had screwed up on fermentation, but having read a fair amount, didn't want to dump it and just sat on it for a while, hoping that would clean it up and mellow it out.  Well, it took about 3 years for the mead, but it did.  If a mead can do that, I'm sure a beer, with many more, stronger flavors, can do the same (and I've had that happen too, doesn't take as long for beer luckily).

So, my advice, sit on it.  Hopefully it doesn't take a year or two, but you'll be surprised how big of a difference even just 6 months can make.

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I made a strawberry rhubarb saison this last season.  I simmered the strawberries with the rhubarb for a bit (maybe 15') before covering and letting cool.  I then added this to secondary and racked on top.  Easily one of my top beers.  It did have some pectin haze, but when people tried it, they stopped caring about the cloudiness.

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Ingredients / Re: Advice on using Maple Syrup
« on: September 14, 2014, 11:42:32 PM »
I added 1.87 lb of maple syrup to a big RIS.  It's a little over a year now and still has a noticeable maple flavor.  I added it all to secondary.  However, I didn't wait for fermentation to completely end.  I waited till it was noticeably slowing down by a fair amount and the racked to secondary with the maple syrup.  I'm happy with the results.  I want to change the recipe a bit, but it's the malt bill.  The amount and way of adding the syrup with stay the same.

I would definitely cut back from that amount if you're planning on drinking it fresh.  While I enjoyed the maple flavor, fresh it was a touch too strong.  After a year it's really hit it's stride, but I was planning on sitting on this for at least a year anyway.

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle Labels
« on: August 17, 2014, 05:15:47 PM »
+1 to grogtag.  I ordered from them for a beer I did for a friend as a surprise for his wedding (big barleywine).  The quality was very nice.  Much better than anything I could have done myself for close to that price.  While I was at it, I ordered some custom bottle caps and a sign as well with my homebrew logo.  The caps are very nice looking.  The sign is nice as well.  It's going to be hanging in my bar area when I finally move.  All very good products though.

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Equipment and Software / Inexpensive Fryer on Woot?
« on: November 09, 2013, 06:10:27 AM »
tools.woot.com has a turkey fryer setup today.  It's seems to be a good, not OMG!!! good, but a good price, from what I can tell.  My question is this: Should I go for this burner?  I've been wanting a Blichmann floor burner for a little while.  I haven't gotten one partially because I'm poor, partially because my gas stove just barely gets to a boil, and partially because there are a couple things I want more.

I've heard the Blichmann burners are worth the money.  I'm just wondering if I should jump on the burner on woot, since it's a deal (I'll need a second burner at some point anyway.  I doubt that I'll want to haul sparge water from the house for very long).  Currently though, there are a couple things I want more than a floor burner.  What do you guys think?  I'm just worried this is a better deal than I realize, and I should jump on it, then I can start boiling on a fryer earlier, and I'll have my second burner when I get a Blichmann.  Thanks guys.

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