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Messages - trapae

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All Grain Brewing / Starting to think about water
« on: Today at 07:32:13 AM »
 I've been brewing all grain for about seven years now and have obsessively tweaked all parts of my Brewing set up/process, all except one..........Water chemistry.
I use arrowhead Springwater and to my taste buds my beers of turn out good. But I think I'm ready to embark upon figure out water chemistry.  I've glanced at Bru'n water and it seems a bit complicated. Just wondering if anyone knows of a good primer source that is a good place to start?  ( something a little more manageable than Palmers 300 page book. )

All good advice, thanks.  I do have a pump and whirlpool while chilling.

Cool, thanks.   I listened to Denny's podcast recently and you/he talked about the hydra, I've been looking into it. Looks very cool.   In Southern California my groundwater is between 75 and 80. So I was thinking about getting the hydra, quickly chilling to around ground water temperature ( with garden hose ), and then using a pre-chiller to quickly get it down to 65.   My current set up is a three eights pre-chiller in a bucket of ice and then a three eights immersion chiller. It works well but still takes me about 20 minutes to get down to pitching temperature. The pain in the ass is I have to buy about 60 pounds of ice and continually drain the icewater in the pre-chiller and keep adding ice . So I am trying to find a quicker better solution to where I don't have to use so much ice.

 Why does no one make immersion wort chiller's greater than 1/2 inch diameter? It would seem that greater flowrate with increased diameter would be a big plus. Am I not thinking about the physics correctly, or is it just expense?

This beer has been in the keg for 2weeks and I am very happy with it.  Doesn't taste too thin to me.  Thanks for all the input.  Next time I will mash a couple degrees higher and see what happens.

All Grain Brewing / Re: IPA hopping technique survey/poll?
« on: May 11, 2017, 05:31:29 AM »
 In my mind,  flameout is a zero minute addition and then you immediately cool to pitching temperature. Whirlpool/hopstand is an addition at or after zero minute where you let the hops steep at some temperature for sometime before rapidly cooling. (With or without stirring or pump whirlpooling).

All Grain Brewing / IPA hopping technique survey/poll?
« on: May 10, 2017, 10:21:37 PM »
IPA hopping technique survey/poll?

General Homebrew Discussion / Dry hopping with hop extract
« on: May 06, 2017, 08:07:07 AM »
 Has anyone thought of this? I know there are hot shots for bittering but I was just thinking that if there were individual hop extracts that contains all of the oils from that hop, it might be an interesting way to pack more hop flavor and aroma post fermentation instead of dry hopping. You would loose less beer too. They could come in sanitized viles so you just open and pour them in.   On a base level I don't actually like this idea because I like using the original bass ingredients in making flavor through the chemistry of Brewing. It's the reason I like all grain versus extract. But with everyone trying to cram as much flavor and aroma in, I was just thinking?......

All Grain Brewing / Re: Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 28, 2017, 12:02:19 PM »
 No, they actually drop out crystal clear after about a week in the keg.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 28, 2017, 11:21:35 AM »
 That's a good point.  I do always do starters but usually try to get the calculated numbers close to the ideal pitching right. This last batch I did over pitch though.   On my IPAs I do always use Chico.   Come to think of it, I made a stout recently and used 007 and it finished right where I thought it should so maybe that is the issue.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 27, 2017, 09:48:56 PM »
 So I bought a new hydrometer, calibrated it with distilled water to make sure it was  accurate.  Then I took another sample today, correct it for temperature, and it came out 1.008.  Still pretty dry, but not as bad as I thought. Next time I will probably mash couple points higher and see what that does. I clean my conical and all of my fittings and gaskets meticulously so hopefully I don't have an infection but will do an extra good thorough cleansing and sanitizing after this batch. Thanks for all of the advice.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 19, 2017, 07:20:18 AM »
 Actually I didn't think of that. This was the first time I ordered my malt online from more beer and I got briess.  Normally I get my malt from my homebrew shop. Don't know what malt they carry.  So it was possibly a completely different malt.   Wonder if that could possibly be it.    They hydrometer sample tasted fine, but it was still kind of yeasty and I actually don't know what a super super dry IPA will taste like. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 18, 2017, 08:37:35 PM »
 Mash pH was 5.4. Never taken pH from the fermenter.   Just hope the beer doesn't taste like hop water because of the low FG.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 18, 2017, 08:01:48 PM »
PS:  the yeast packets I used was quite old so for my starter I used the BrauKaiser equation instead of the white equation for the first time so it's possible I could've had quite a bit more yeast cells then usual. Don't know if this  would make any difference.

All Grain Brewing / Very low FG, does this make sense to anyone?
« on: April 18, 2017, 07:57:08 PM »
 So I feel like I get consistently low final gravities but I just dumped trub ( after 12 days of fermentation ), and took a final gravity reading from my conical fermenter and it was the lowest I've ever had=1.005.   I have brewed this exact recipe several times and I usually get 1.008 to 1.010.   And I did nothing differently.   I tested my hydrometer on some arrowhead spring water I had ( did not have any distilled) to make sure it was accurate before taking the reading.   First five days I fermented at 65, then up to 68 for 3-4, then at 70 until now.   My original gravity was 1.063.
Here is the recipe below. Does this make any sense to anyone?

Batch Size: 6.33 gal   Style: American IPA (14B)
Boil Size: 8.50 gal   Style Guide: BJCP 2008
Color: 6.0 SRM
Bitterness: 62.0 IBUs   Boil Time: 60 min
Est OG: 1.062 (15.2° P)
Est FG: 1.013 SG
ABV: 6.4%

Mash 60 min @ 150

Amount   Name   Type   #
10.82 g   Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60 min)
13 lbs 5.40 oz   Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)
9.19 oz   Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)
9.19 oz   Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)&
0.54 oz   Magnum [14.0%] - Boil 60 min
0.80 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.45 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 15 min
0.30 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 15 min
1.08   Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15 min)
1.00 tsp   Yeast Nutrient (Boil 15 min)
1.00   Chiller/whirlpool (Boil 10 min)
0.50 oz   Columbus/Tomahawk/Zeus (CTZ) [15.5%] - Boil 7 min
0.30 oz   El Dorado [15.0%] - Boil 7 min
0.20 oz   Centennial [10.0%] - Boil 7 min
Starter   California Ale (White Labs #WLP001)

At flameout, cool quickly to 175 and then whirlpool hop for 30 minutes: 0.8 oz Columbus 2.05 oz Centennial 2.75 oz El Dorado

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