Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - sambates

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Ozone System for Aeration?
« on: November 18, 2015, 06:20:05 PM »
Great! I wasn't really sure about how that all happened, so I'm glad I asked. Thanks for all the feedback!

Yeast and Fermentation / Ozone System for Aeration?
« on: November 17, 2015, 09:06:35 PM »
I have a friend that is getting rid of an ozone system from his hot tub. I was wondering if you can use an ozone system to aerate your wort before pitching yeast? I have not seen information anywhere after much searching, so I thought I would pose the question here. I am planning to make the leap to an oxygenation system and wasn't sure if it's worth trying to make the ozone work. If not, I will buy a system from morebeer or Northern Brewer. Thanks!

I have some pretty similar favorites, but these are my most common:

WLP007 Dry English
WLP001 California ale
WLP002 English Ale
Wy1469 West Yorkshire
Wy1007 German Ale
WLP530 Abbey Ale
Wy3522 Belgian Ardennes
Wy3711 French Saison
WLP565 Saison I
WLP566 Saison II

WLP833 Bock
Wy2206 Bavarian Lager
Wy2124 Bohemian Lager

Wy3278 Lambic Blend
Wy3763 Roselare
WLP650 Brett Brux
WLP665 Flemish Blend

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: remove ale yeast in Supplication clone
« on: October 27, 2015, 08:46:24 PM »
Typically if I do a primary with an ale strain and then add bugs, I will leave it in the primary for 3-4 weeks. That will give me enough time to let the majority of yeast settle out, but the bugs and bacteria will eat the yeast (that may still be in suspension when transferring to secondary) cells and that will prevent autolysis. You could try cold crashing too. You just don't want to take a majority of the yeast in. RR probably does it because they can and it gives a more consistent product.

Also, mash high! I typically shoot for 156º-158º when I make a sour beer because it will create more long chain dextrines for the bugs to eat. Also, I've used maltodextrine in the past as well.

I believe RR uses the WLP530 Abbey Ale strain for primary and they have their own house bug blend. Another option is using a strain that has a saccharomyces and bacteria in one blend (roselare/lambic blends). ECY20 Bug County is KILLER if you can get your hands on it.

A good resource is emailing/listening to the Sour Hour on the BN w/ Jay Goodwin of The Rare Barrel.

What's funny is that they used a bottle opener for a twist off bottle in the video...oh brother

I've always wondered about these charts though. How long should my beer sit at 38ºF with the pressure at 8psi in order to reach a co2 volume of 2.2?

The Pub / Re: Ten Drinks a Week
« on: September 07, 2015, 03:44:44 PM »
I do this also. I'm typically no more than 3-5 beers/week. If I know I'm going out one weekend with friends, I'll cut my weekday drinking so that I don't overindulge. I think setting a number is a good thing and it gives you a limit to follow.

Wood/Casks / Re: New barrels
« on: August 26, 2015, 01:22:33 PM »
Since it's so small, you could find some cheap wine and put that in the barrel first and then do a sour in there. Maybe a wine that hasn't been oaked yet? Or buy white dog, as suggested, to turn it into another whiskey barrel. Smaller barrels will age quicker ( and Woodinville tells you that. I say do something fun and different that you know you'll enjoy!

Just mash thick for the first infusion and add a second infusion to get you to your second rest.

If you really want to try a portein rest, go for it. This is what I'd suggest too. As most people have said, it can kill head retention. This happened with a buddy in my club. You could always try it and report back too.

Ingredients / Re: How would you add lime juice?
« on: July 16, 2015, 03:39:10 PM »
I've used fresh lime juice in a beer and it tasted great and lasted well. I would suggest squeezing a few limes into a sanitized glass/pitcher and then add a small portion to the bottom of the keg. Rack beer on top and let it mix well. I also used lime in conjunction with another fruit to balance out the acid and sharpness. Enjoy!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Efficiency of Oats
« on: June 28, 2015, 08:13:18 PM »
I only used about 5-7 in both instances and both times were flaked. So maybe something else is going wrong, but I've only noticed it recently happening in those two batches with oats. Kinda weird...

All Grain Brewing / Efficiency of Oats
« on: June 16, 2015, 04:36:53 PM »
I have brewed two batches recently that contained Oats and I noticed that in both instances, my OG landed as if I did have them at all. Does anyone else have this issue? I know they won't contribute much to gravity, but if that's so, why does Beersmith calculate that into the total?

All Grain Brewing / Re: Using Mint
« on: June 16, 2015, 04:30:54 PM »
I agree with those saying the mint quality is definitely more of the herbal flavor from mint leaves and less of the tingle/mouth sensation we get from associations of mint.

I've used mint a few times and I've had the best results with using it in the secondary. Mint is very subtle and the aroma and flavor fades very quickly (I lose the majority of my mint quality in about 3 weeks). IMO, you will have no mint flavor or aroma left post-fermentation, if you add it in the boil. I would chop then muddle the mint in a secondary vessel or in a pint glass Transfer the beer on top of it and let it sit for a few days like a dry hop. Another way to do this would be chopping and muddling tons of mint in a mason jar and then filling it with vodka. Letting that soak and every time you lose the mint aroma or flavor, add more. Depends on your system and what you're looking for. Good luck!

All Grain Brewing / Re: Ipa water addition help
« on: February 19, 2015, 09:47:12 PM »
Alright did alittle playing in ezcalc,  my ph is alittle high at 5.6 but was thinking if I add some ph stabilizer could draw me down to the 5.2-5.4 range

2.5g gypsum
3.75G calc. Chloride
2g epson salt
2.6 gypsum
4 calc. Chloride
2.1 Epsom

Water after:

Chloride/sulfate ratio .80

Tht look good or what else should I adjust for the high pb

I have never used epsom salt and typically I play with a mixture of gypsum and CaCl or just one of them. If needed, I may also add some 88% lactic acid if I need to bring pH down and "reduce" alkalinity. My water is really hard, so I also blend portions of my water with distilled water to get closer to my pH without adding too many minerals (i.e., 30% tap, 70% distilled).

Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Dubbel
« on: February 19, 2015, 06:54:44 PM »
My instinct tells me that the version with Munich malt could potentially have a more bready, malty, and melonoidin-rich flavor. It would also likely make your wort slightly less fermentable, as compared to the  recipe with the majority of pils malt. Honestly, Belgian beers are really characterized by their yeast, so that should play a very important role in how you want your final product to turn out. Good luck!

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6