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Messages - dmtaylor

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Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: September 29, 2016, 08:57:26 PM »
Apparently I have somehow been entirely ignorant and perhaps noticeably absent regarding all this talk about deoxygenated water and Brewtan, etc.

Until today.  Today I wasted hours reading up on all this sh!t.  And that is my tentative conclusion: it is sh!t.

The pseudo science and recommended practice of a 30 minute protein rest killed it for me, not to mention that a friend of mine can achieve "it" with a single infusion and nothing special other than using continental malt, hops, and the right yeast.

Yes, I know what "it" is, and I love and crave "it".  I think maybe I even can get close to "it" in my own beers.  However this all also leads me to believe that there's little if any need to futz with this secretive fake sciency LODO and Brewtan stuff.

I will let you guys run these experiments while I continue to play with "regular" decoction and efficiency.  Results coming soon/eventually on my triangles.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Danstar Windsor
« on: September 29, 2016, 01:12:31 PM »
Hi guys first post here and thought I'd pick this thread up as came  across this forum on a search for Windsor yeast. Very informative. my fermentation seems to have stopped at 1020 which seems a common point. It's been 10 days now and the ale is still quite cloudy. Alcohol ok as it started at 1060.

I would be happy to let it sit there for a few weeks but I've dry hopped loose leaves 4 days ago and wouldn't want to leave them. This is my first all grain brew and one mistake was not topping up with enough water so fermenter is  only half full, as would the secondary fermenter be if I transferred to that. I would worry about oxegising.  How long do you guys think it will take for the Windsor yeast to drop?

This is unusual for Windsor.  If I recall correctly, the Windsor yeast flocculates very fast within a day or two after fermentation is complete.

In any case, you can get the yeast out faster by adding gelatin.  My process for doing that: Microwave about 1/2 cup of water until it boils.  Then add 1/2 teaspoon unflavored gelatin and stir to dissolve.  Allow to cool for a few minutes then add to your fermenter and swirl the fermenter to mix it in.  About 24-48 hours later, your beer should be clear.

Hope this helps.  I still think it seems unusual for Windsor yeast not to settle out right away.  I wonder if your dry hops introduced contamination.  However the gelatin would help with that as well.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Last Year's Apple Juice
« on: September 29, 2016, 12:12:20 PM »
Campden does not kill everything.  Pasteurization does.  I want complete control over my fermentations, nothing wild at all.  I have made good wild fermented ciders in the past.  However I have also made several not so good wild ones as well.  I want to be in charge.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Last Year's Apple Juice
« on: September 29, 2016, 10:39:58 AM »
Thanks Dave!  Do I understand this right?  You are trying to keep the stop the yeast and retain some sweetness?

Yes, that's what my process does.  Most people don't do it my way, but then again I don't like their cider as much as I love mine, so...  ;)

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Last Year's Apple Juice
« on: September 29, 2016, 09:31:02 AM »
For some reason this caught my eye...  Never made cider.  I am fortunate to have some good cider made locally.  Can you guys point in right direction to learn or give cliff notes.  Is it as simple as, pour cider into fermenter/add yeast/ferment/keg?  How long it take?

You can keep it as simple as you want, and go as fast as you want.  Personally I recommend low and slow for the best tasting cider if you are patient, but you can have a halfway decent cider in as little as a month if you're super eager.  My copied & pasted cliff's notes for my best ciders:

Pasteurize at 160 F for 15 minutes, cool, pitch Cote des Blancs yeast (it's the best), let it ferment for a week or so, rack to secondary, then begin monitoring specific gravity every few days. Aim for 1.010-1.015. When gravity gets to that point, add gelatin to knock out most of the yeast, then a couple days later, rack again, add sorbate and sulfite to hurt the remaining yeast and keep the cider cold for another month or so, trying to prevent it from refermenting. If it starts up again, add more gelatin, sorbate and sulfite if necessary. Once the cider stabilizes fully, you can bottle or keg it. Then enjoy.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: bjcp scoring question
« on: September 29, 2016, 09:07:53 AM »
I'll say the magic word again that pisses some people off:


If you don't realize that going in, then you shouldn't be entering.  And it's usually not that bad.

I figure about 50/50 or worse.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Last Year's Apple Juice
« on: September 29, 2016, 09:06:53 AM »
It probably has something to do with pectin and a physical phenomenon known as freeze-thaw.  I'll bet if you add pectinase and/or ignore the slime, it will ferment out fine anyway.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: bjcp scoring question
« on: September 29, 2016, 09:03:54 AM »
I'll say the magic word again that pisses some people off:


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: bjcp scoring question
« on: September 29, 2016, 04:07:21 AM »
Sometimes it happens like you described, but often not.  It's a lot of work making all these adjustments.  Some judges take it upon themselves to rectify apparent "errors".  However I don't believe it is a requirement to do so.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Done with hefes
« on: September 28, 2016, 10:47:43 AM »
Is skimming all there is to "it"?  Heck, that's way too easy.  I'll give it a try next time.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Am I ready to bottle?
« on: September 28, 2016, 08:33:34 AM »
Don't ever use a refractometer for FG.  Use a hydrometer.  If your not at FG then you risk creating gushers by adding additional sugar.   Bottom line take the hydrometer reading if your there go ahead and bottle. 

I partially agree -- it is more accurate to use a hydrometer to measure FG, however I'd also never say never to using a refractometer, as long as you always adjust using Sean Terrill's calculator:

This adjustment will match up with a hydrometer reading within 0.002 every time.  If that's close enough for you then it's close enough for you.  If you want better accuracy, then yes, use a hydrometer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Done with hefes
« on: September 27, 2016, 09:31:53 AM »
I feel the same way about my homebrewed marzens, and pretty much any German imports.  I can try to make it myself, but it's never quite as good as the real thing.  Maybe I should just give up trying.  But I don't, and especially don't because some of my friends I know can brew world-class German beers successfully.  So, I keep trying.  Maybe I personally just don't have what it takes.  I can admit defeat, meanwhile hoping that maybe it's only temporary and I'll eventually succeed later.  That said, I've come real close on a Vienna lager, real close.

In your first post you mention purchasing a mill too?  That is a change isn't it or did I mis-read that. If so I'd suspect its your crush compared to where ever your grain was being crushed before.  Get a batch of ingredients for a prior beer and have it crushed at where ever you had it crushed before you bought a mill.  Then make a comparison between the false bottom and the historical bazooka results.

Good call!  Give this man a prize.  OP states: "used my own grain bill on the last two batches".  This explains everything.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: How long is your brew day?
« on: September 26, 2016, 09:38:10 AM »
I only brew 1.7 or 2 gallons these days, but I can get a batch done in 3.5 hours flat if I want to, or 4 hours max.  That's all-grain, BIAB, *WITH* a sparge step.

Ingredients / Re: Wet Hop IPA Additions
« on: September 26, 2016, 09:11:42 AM »
Hops are about 20% solids, so you need 5 times as much.

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