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Messages - bengelbrau

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Is there any info anywhere on what concentration of O2 really matters? I've been purging an empty keg 3 or 4 times, and have noticed no oxidation, even for beers that are over a year old in the bottle.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Low Volume Hydrometer - Any Ideas?
« on: June 30, 2015, 06:00:20 PM »
A question to ask yourself is whether you really need to know the FG. I have given up on that reading as irrelevant for my purposes. I do have a lot of experience, so am sure when fermentation is done.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: What makes a lager a lager?
« on: June 30, 2015, 07:42:25 AM »
And I also think Mark is making all this stuff up. Galactose? That some kind of inter-galactic sugar?

Galactose is the main sugar produced by Dilithium Crystal malt

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: I like the Brewing Network, but....
« on: June 15, 2015, 07:25:55 PM »
And once you win COTY, what do you have? Something sparkly that can hang on someone else's wall? If this is about who "wins", it seems like something is awry.

Try 2 liter soda bottles. Milk jugs have an obvious week point in the seems.

+1. You can also squeeze them before closing to give some expansion room.

I wonder about the effect of water temps on brittleness of the plastic. I don't use water hotter than about 120 for cleaning.

I'm not using PBW, but I do use Oxyclean for a quick soak, then Starsan just before filling.

Have you had a problem? I've had two for about 30 batches, and no issues so far.

If I were short on time, I'd get some fresh stuff, and brew a good batch. Once you get some in the pipeline, you could try to brew the old stuff, but ask yourself if it's worth spending your effort for something that may not be optimal.

By the time I get to chilling, I am SOOOO ready to have my brew day done, that I add hops at 170, and continue chilling till done. If I want a greater hop presence, I simply add more hops to the whirlpool.

Ingredients / Re: BrunWater lactic acid additions
« on: May 26, 2015, 06:46:18 AM »
Do mix all your minerals and acids with the mashing water BEFORE adding the grain.

I tried adding my stuff to the water in the kettle, but found that the chalk settled really nicely. I still have a thin layer on the bottom of the kettle. Since that experience, I've added the minerals to the grist prior to adding the water, and stirring the grist well as the water heats. Any techniques for getting this stuff to dissolve?

We have plenty more O2 xBmts in the chamber, so to speak :)

Excellent! Thank you for doing these.

I would not extrapolate that to mean that you dont have to aerate or oxygenate, and I dont think the findings of the experiment are suggesting that.

I agree. I wonder what would happen if this were repeated with, say, a Helles?

Equipment and Software / Re: mash tun
« on: May 19, 2015, 02:56:08 PM »
What efficiencies are you getting using black over blue? Denny?

Black is for dark beers, blue is for light.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Grain performance question
« on: May 19, 2015, 02:50:18 PM »
I don't think the lesser shelf life is due to loss of potential extract. Rather, I think it's due to oxidation of some of the stuff in the grains. Kind of like the difference in bread made with store bought whole wheat flour and freshly ground flour - the flour ground a while ago has an acrid bitterness that is absent from the fresh

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