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Messages - beer_crafter

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I don't think the problem is with Fruit Lambics (which are a classic style in and of themselves), but fruited versions of other classic styles.  The other thing at play here is that there a lot of modern riffs on the classic styles (Berliner, Gose, Flanders Reds come to mind) that don't strictly fall into the style even before the fruit is considered.  A berliner weisse at 4.9% abv, or a flanders with no oak character, but with fruit added, are a couple examples where this gets confusing for entrants. 

That may be the way it is supposed to work, but I'd still be tempted to enter non-lambic fruited classic sour styles (BWeisse, etc) as Wild Specialty, especially in smaller/local competitions.  I've had good success with my Tart Cherry Flanders Red in Wild Specialty, and suspect that if I entered it in as Fruit Beer, I'd get dinged for being sour, or not having enough prominent fruit character. 

To me, this may be a difference in theory vs practice. 

I'll point out that Russian River Supplication is listed as a classic example of Wild Specialty Beer.  This beer isn't terribly far off from a Flanders Red aged in Pinot Barrels (as opposed to fouders) and Tart Cherries. 

Wood/Casks / Re: Barrel aging questions
« on: February 23, 2016, 09:53:23 AM »
What I recommend is that a few days before you are ready to use the barrel, give it a rinse, and then get as much 180F water in there as possible. You don't necessarily have to fill it (although you can) but you do want to rotate and flip it so that all surfaces get wet.  This will hydrate the wood and will help reduce any contaminating yeast/bacteria. 

Although I have stored my barrels with hot water, I have since learned that that may invite mold growth.  So, after you're comfortable that the wood has swollen and isn't leaking, fill it with cold water.  Hopefully at this point, your beer is close to being done.

When your beer is done, drain the water and fill with beer.  To the very top.  Add a bung with an airlock and montior it for blowoff. 

Wood/Casks / Re: Woodinville Whiskey Co. Barrel
« on: October 09, 2015, 04:48:33 AM »
Sure you can... by blending.

Wood/Casks / Re: Killing off past microbes
« on: March 24, 2015, 08:32:45 AM »
In my experience, boiling (or even 180F) water does kill microbes.

I brewed a sour in a 6 gallon barrel.  I did a 180F soak of the barrel after I was done.  Rinsed it and let it cool and added a cleanly fermented beer to it, with the idea that the microbes in the wood would sour the beer.... after 6 months, the beer was still clean as a whistle!  I was shocked, but it did give me the confidence that I'd be able to control the organisms in the wood to *some* extent (not entirely).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Classiest beer style
« on: January 15, 2015, 05:19:40 AM »
Biere de Champagne, hands down. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: How well do you clean your mash tun?
« on: January 15, 2015, 05:14:10 AM »
I just rinse my mash tuns and make sure I rinse the ball valves fairly well.  The coolers are fairly dirty at this point. 

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Need Big, 15 gal.? Cooler Mash Tun
« on: March 20, 2014, 05:04:56 AM »
Love the coleman xtreme.  The 70qt is a big tun... for 5 gallon batches, I'm not sure I would recommend it.  For big beers, fine... but 8lbs of malt for a pale ale or pils would get lost in there!

All Grain Brewing / Re: % of Munich for light summer ale
« on: July 06, 2013, 04:55:37 AM »
I was thinking 10% Munich is appropriate.  Too much in a light beer will darken the color.  Maybe you could get away with 15-20%, I have not run the numbers through software.  Depends on how dark you want.  If color doesn't really matter, then yeah, use 20-30% with great effect.

Depends on what Munich.  The color of some of the Light or "Munich I" grains are as low as 6L.  20% of that stuff in a beer made with 2-row or Pale Ale malt is not going to have it's colored affected to the point of detriment. 

Also, 10-15% will give you a slight graininess that is pleasant but not immediately identifiable as Munich malt.  I think it's really nice in a beer like this. 

All Grain Brewing / Re: Final beer PH?
« on: July 06, 2013, 04:45:59 AM »
Just took the readings of my two on tap.  These were taken on carbonated beer.

Double IPA: 4.6
Belgian Blonde (pils recipe/3787 yeast): 4.2

It is my favorite book in the classic beer style series.  Get it.  I re-read it every time I brew a BW, just to get psyched up.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Flanders Red fermentation
« on: February 20, 2013, 05:54:56 AM »
Looks like Mr. Apte's Flemish Red page is down (it links to a profile page for him at Xerox)... Does anyone have this cached?  If not I will email him to see if I can get a copy and we can add it to this site, hopefully.

All Grain Brewing / Re: stuck sparge
« on: November 28, 2012, 11:22:48 AM »
I find a psuedo-mash-out helps with this.  I also batch sparge and whenever I have had a slow or stuck sparge, infusing boiling water and getthing the mash up to about 160 or so has done the trick.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: October 17, 2012, 02:45:48 PM »
light colored belgian ales, and i'll include saisons in that group, are some of the easiest all-grain beers to make, and some of the most expensive to buy.  Great beers to homebrew. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Saison Vert Dregs
« on: October 09, 2012, 01:14:57 PM »
My assumption is that rayot vert does have active brett in it.  I could be wrong.

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