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Messages - chinaski

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1
All Grain Brewing / Re: Whirlpool Brown
« on: June 29, 2016, 08:41:49 AM »
I regularly brew an American brown ale recipe that I developed because its a style I enjoy.  Perhaps also because I rarely see commercial versions in the offering.  I enjoy how the flavor of mine changes over the 6-8 weeks in the keg before its gone.

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: Going all grain
« on: June 18, 2016, 02:08:24 PM »
I vote for using your well water as is and concentrate on just going through the steps of all-grain your first time.  You can use your taste buds as your guide as far as matching your water hardness to a grain bill.  I wouldn't stress about mash pH this early in the game either.  Just brew a baseline of your well water with a solid recipe and see how things go.

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best Beers in America
« on: June 18, 2016, 02:01:32 PM »
The list is what it is.  I cannot complain because I didn't vote.  I don't vote mostly because I don't buy much beer, I drink primarily what I brew.  That said, I don't really think the list adds anything to Zymurgy...
There are often some brewery supplied Homebrew recipes that accompany the article. That has been an add for me over the years.
Good point- recipes do help.  I think it would also be interesting to tally all of the bjcp scores from the commercial calibration column and see what up there from those- particularly if the beers were more widely available.

4
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Best Beers in America
« on: June 17, 2016, 06:34:48 PM »
The list is what it is.  I cannot complain because I didn't vote.  I don't vote mostly because I don't buy much beer, I drink primarily what I brew.  That said, I don't really think the list adds anything to Zymurgy...

5
I'm definitely no scientist, but with batch sparging I can't imagine how the drain style would have anything to do with conversion or efficiency
I AM a scientist... and you are right for the reasons that Sacaromyces explains clearly and for the experience of Denny, myself, and many other batch spargers.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Igloo 5 gallon tun
« on: June 02, 2016, 07:10:17 AM »
Braids work great if batch sparging, where you don't have worry about uniform flow of sparge water through your grain bed, which is what the false bottom designs are intended for in the case of fly sparging.  As a batch-sparging convert from fly sparging, I highly recommend going that route.  That's why I have the false bottom laying around...

7
Equipment and Software / Re: Igloo 5 gallon tun
« on: June 01, 2016, 06:34:46 PM »
I've got one that came with Northern Brewers all-grain cooler kit.  I no longer use it.  Private message me if you're interested in getting it from me.

8
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Confessions of NE IPA brewers
« on: May 29, 2016, 09:11:08 AM »
It is unclear to me from the link whether the flour and fruit puree is used in the tired hands IPA or some other beers in their line.

As a northeasterner myself with easy access to the originators of the "style", I really doubt that the haziness is necessarily the intent in say, Heady Topper.  I think the intent is to not allow fining or other clarification methods to diminish the hop flavor and aroma of the beer.  By design the intent is to keep as much hop in the flavor and aroma as possible and it is likely that some of that flavor is stuck on the yeast in suspension.  The side effects of this intent is a haziness and softer, fuller mouthfeel than a clear IPA.


9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Adjusting IBU's
« on: May 19, 2016, 09:12:07 AM »
for what it's worth, it wouldn't have actually been 49.9 even if you have hit your numbers exactly. There are too many system assumptions for even complex calculations to be really accurate.
True, but having a calculated IBU reference point to go with your perception of the beers you make is really helpful when making adjustments to recipes or formulating them.

10
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bittering with chinook question
« on: May 15, 2016, 08:14:07 PM »
I've settled on first wort hopping with Chinook for roughly 50% of my IPA IBUs and also use a 60 minute addition of another more neutral bittering hop for the other 50%.  Works well in my IPA.

By this, is it safe to assume you mean that this applies to the BITTERING additions, and the flavor/aroma additions are counted separately?
Yes.  Although I tend not to do any other hop additions until 5 minutes left in the boil for my IPAs.

11
All Grain Brewing / Re: Bittering with chinook question
« on: May 15, 2016, 10:44:55 AM »
I've settled on first wort hopping with Chinook for roughly 50% of my IPA IBUs and also use a 60 minute addition of another more neutral bittering hop for the other 50%.  Works well in my IPA.

12
All Grain Brewing / Re: 55% Efficiency after Batch Sparge
« on: April 18, 2016, 05:58:23 PM »
Welcome to batch sparging!  I'll give you my stock advice because it hasn't quite been stated in this thread yet:

Rather than chase down any particular efficiency number by tweaking this, that, and the other thing (often all at the same time) chase down consistent efficiency regardless of how high or low it is.  If you do that, then you can predict what you'll get for your OG.  If you don't then you'll always be tweaking this or that and always need to adjust either your final volume or bump up your OG with extract additions.  I would brew several batches within a close range of lower gravities (say 1040 to 1065) and keep everything constant to see if get similar results each time.  Then you can tweak a parameter at a time to change things if you want, and know that your process is predictable.

13
Ingredients / Re: (R) Hops
« on: April 17, 2016, 06:34:10 PM »
I want to brew all of my beers with only my own hops.  And I do.  Hop independent!  Take that Hop Union!

14
I don't think you can separate the beer from its hype- whether it be good or bad.  It all colors our impressions of the drinking experience in one way or another.  Hill Farmstead probably does taste better to those that have driven many hours to get it than to those who don't have to.  And I think that's OK.

15
Hop Growing / Re: Building A Trellis
« on: March 29, 2016, 07:20:05 PM »
The best engineering I did for my hops is to make a system for lowering each bine down for picking and allowing them to continue to grow up rather than sideways (and entwine with their neighbor).  At each hill, I run twine up to an overhead cable (15-20 feet high), through a carabiner attached to the cable, and back down to the ground with enough slack to allow me to drop the entire bine down for picking.  At each hill the twine runs at enough of an angle with respect to the overhead cable (looks like an inverted V) so the laterals tend not to entwine the downward leg of the twine.

I have found that besides the safety advantages of staying off of a ladder, my system allows me to selectively pick the ripe cones from an individual hill and return it back up to ripen the rest.  I use braided polypropylene line as the twine so I can pull off the dead bines at the end of each season and not restring the rig every spring.
 

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