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Messages - harbicide

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: Conical Fermentors
« on: January 12, 2014, 02:16:00 PM »
My 27 gallon conical barely fits in a 14 cu. ft. upright freezer.  I did need to remove the door shelf molding in order to shut the door.  I use a transfer cart (seen in the photo) to roll the conical into the freezer.


2
Equipment and Software / Re: How to tell volumes in opaque vessels
« on: October 18, 2013, 09:43:20 AM »
How do you all make sure of the volume going into your keg from a conical?

I purge my kegs with CO2 before filling.  Then my fill hose is inserted to the bottom of the keg being filled and I gradually raise it keeping about 1 inch of the fill tube below the level of the beer.  When it looks like I am about 2.5 inches from the lip of the opening I shut off the flow, withdraw the tube, and put the lid on the keg.  Two inches from the lip is about 5 gallons in a ball lock corny.

3
Equipment and Software / Re: How to Motorize a Grain Mill
« on: October 10, 2013, 09:47:05 AM »
I use a 1/4 hp X 1750 RPM motor.  This is strong enough to start from a fully loaded hopper.  My first sheave selection was 2" and 8" which resulted in about 500 rpm.  With a Schmidling it would mill 50 lbs in 90 seconds.  I have since scaled back the larger sheave to 11" which results in about 300 rpm.

There used to be a link for motorizing a mill on the Schmidling website.

4
Equipment and Software / Re: Love Controls 16b for Dummies
« on: September 05, 2013, 09:36:20 AM »
I googled 'Love Controls 16b' and the manual I pulled up showed #4 and #5 being the power in.

5
Bar Keepers Friend I think will do the trick. I use it on my SS "Coors" Keggle.

Bar Keepers Friend will not passivate stainless.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: Freezer Operation in Hot Garage
« on: July 19, 2013, 01:13:34 PM »
Are you using it as a freezer or kegerator?  Do you have an external thermostat or just the regular factory one?

I bought it to keep my conical in it.  Since the upper barrel of the conical is 20" diameter, I needed to remove the door shelf in order for the door to shut.  While there was no insulation in the shelving this has caused me some problems with the door gasket coming loose at the bottom; but the gasket still appears to be sealed well.

I use an external controller and in thinking it was malfunctioning I check its temperature with two other thermometers.

7
Equipment and Software / Freezer Operation in Hot Garage
« on: July 19, 2013, 10:15:46 AM »
After reading a facebook post on operation of home AC units and them freezing up when being cranked, I slowly have not been able to keep a temp of 32 in my upright freezer which is in my (100F?) garage.  I'm not home to check it, but I think it was froze up.  For those who have freezers in their garage, would this be normal?  Note the freezer was bought about 3 months ago, new from Sears.

8
Kegging and Bottling / Jockey Box Plate Chiller Vs Coil for CO2
« on: July 11, 2013, 09:37:26 AM »
I am supplying beer for an event in 10 days and my 4-tap jockey box uses two 50 foot SS coils and a 2-place chill plate.  What would be the ideal keg carbonation pressures and delivery presssures between each cooling device.

9
Equipment and Software / Need Link for Orifices
« on: June 25, 2013, 09:13:02 AM »
I just bought a small off-brand burner that I intend on using for my mash tun.  It has an orifice for propane, but I need to use house gas.  Are there any links for replacement orifices?

10
Equipment and Software / Is a New False Bottom Necessary?
« on: June 23, 2013, 02:42:42 AM »
I brew with a Sankey mash tun with a false bottom that sits on the transition from the side to bottom.  This results in about 2 gallon beneath the FB, but that doesn't bother me since I drain the tun from the bottom. 

My issue is my free FB is 1/8" holes on 3/16" centers.  Because of the rather large holes I lay a piece of aluminum window screen on the FB to minimize grits being carried through. 

I like the idea of a new domed 12" diameter FB that would sit a little lower, but need to be convinced it is worth the $50, or so, that it will cost.  Any idea what the hole size and spacing is on one of them?

11
Yeast and Fermentation / WL Hefe Choices
« on: June 14, 2013, 09:43:25 AM »
Since switching to White Labs yeast a few years ago I have not made a hefeweizen.  My local shop stocks both 300 and 380.  My only experience with 300 was from a friend who brewed a lackluster weizen, which was probably due to lack of temperature control.

I want a good balance between banana and clove and would like to know which of the 300 or 380 would be the best option.  I plan on starting and holding fermentatiion at about 63 for two days, then letting it rise to about 68F.

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Lagering Time
« on: June 02, 2013, 02:10:36 PM »
In reading Noonan's 'New Brewing Lager Beer' he specifies 7 to 12 days per each 2 degrees Plato.  For my 1.065 OG beer that would be 8 weeks of lagering (minimum).  To me that seems excessive, so what is the current consensus for lagering time?  I plan on lagering at 32F.

13
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Rousting Yeast
« on: May 31, 2013, 07:56:33 PM »
Seems to have worked as well as I could expect.  Gravity is now 1.018, so time to lager.

14
Yeast and Fermentation / Rousting Yeast
« on: May 28, 2013, 09:31:20 AM »
Two weeks ago I used my new upright freezer for the first time on a 14 gallon batch of lager.  I pitched a decanted 3 gallon starter of WL830 (that was grown on a stir plate) at 70F and went to bed.  The next morning the wort was 46F.  I then went out of town for the next 4 days.  When I returned the temp was 50F.  I again left town and when I returned two days ago the temp was still 50F but the gravity had only come down from 1.064 to 1.030.  I have let the temp rise to 58F.  While I was expecting a greater reduction in gravity, would it be advisable to now roust the precipitated yeast either by stirring or by bubbling CO2 up through my bottom dump valve?

15
Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning Beerstone
« on: May 16, 2013, 09:59:47 AM »
Nearly 10 years ago I had a terrible case of beer stone.  When I tried making Fat Tire as published in Zymurgy I ended up emailing Dana Johnson (the author from Birko Corp) and his technique was to use an acid product and without rinsing follow it directly with an alkaline cleaner.  The swing in pH helps to loosen the beer stone.  Dana had me using a mixture of 6% nitric and 26% phosphoric acids and the alkaline cleaner was PBW.  It took two applications to thoroughly remove mine.


> http://www.birkocorp.com/brewing/beerstone.asp

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