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Messages - TeeDubb

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General Homebrew Discussion / Re: One for the physics gurus...
« on: May 15, 2018, 04:06:35 PM »
Wrapping the fermenter with a damp towel and running a fan (to use use latent heat of vaporization of water) will also help to cut the cooling time.  You will have to keep the towel wet/damp as it dries out.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from naturally carbonated keg
« on: May 04, 2018, 04:32:58 PM »
Sounds frustrating and I have been there too!  C02 coming out of solution (foam) comes down to temperature and pressure.  Without knowing more details and assuming the beer is not overbarbonated, I would say maybe try lowering the temperature of the beer in the keg if it is higher than 40F.  Also, try and get the pressure at the tap nozzle to be no higher than 1-2 psi.  Maybe this means increasing the length of the hose between the keg and picnic tap to increase it's total pressure drop without having to drop the pressure even more in the keg.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from naturally carbonated keg
« on: May 03, 2018, 08:34:42 PM »
I think you were pretty close on your attempt to bottle carbonated beer. Couple of things could help: I spray sanitize my bottles, then put them in the freezer for 15+ min. The colder the bottle, the less tendency for C02 to come out of solution. Add a small #2 stopper to your cobra tap / racking cane (and make sure the out end of the tube has an angle so you can't block it at the bottom of the bottle). Drop the keg pressure temporarily, as you did, right before bottling.  Then as you fill each bottle, try and keep pressure in the bottle by allowing a small amount of gas flow (slow hiss) past the stopper.  Sounds tricky, but pretty easy after 1 or 2 tries. The pressure in the bottle keeps the  carbonation in the beer.  I quickly cap as the foam starts as I remove the tube/stopper. This is my workaround to mimic a bottling gun - I don't do it enough to justify the expense.

Oh, and make sure to purge the bottles with C02 as you pull each one from the freezer right before filling.

Ingredients / Re: First DIPA recipe attempt
« on: May 02, 2018, 05:57:23 PM »
6 oz of bittering hops seems excessive by my preference.  I think it may give you a nice high IBU number but I wonder if you will be able to distinguish it at levels higher than 125. It will also contribute to wort loss during the boil.

I agree with the other comments, and is also my personal preference for DIPA/IPAs. If you want more aromatics, then save some of the late additions for a 170F whirlpool, and go after more dry hop additions.  Oxygen is your enemy with this style and the amount of hops - do everything you can to avoid it at all stages of the process.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Staling and oxidation
« on: April 29, 2018, 05:15:06 PM »
I have been fighting some aroma and flavor degradation in my hoppier ales and IPAs for a long time.  Seems that they peak pretty quick and lose freshness after just a couple of weeks.  I've made some adjustments to my brew process using some of the advice at the link below.  So far, I've started pre-boiling my mash water, carefully handling water to avoid aeration, mash cap, using a shorter and less vigorous boil, closed transfer from the fermenter.  I've also reverted back to natural carbonation (varying levels) to help use the yeast to scrub any residual oxygen once the final product is in the serving vessel (corny keg).  This has made a huge difference for me.  I have some Brewtan-B on order and that may be the next step for longer freshness and staling prevention.

So, it all matters.  Some things make a big difference (like the closed transfer), but the cumulative effect of others can be significant too.

Equipment and Software / Re: SS Brewtech fermenter mod
« on: April 05, 2018, 09:44:31 PM »
I had the same idea last year, but went another route (internal cooling loop).  I've learned that prices of all the bits add up quickly, but it could save a little bit in the end.  I agree that something easy to handle and clean makes for a less stressful brewing experience.  Here was my solution (plus an external chiller - which was a 'steal' on Ebay).

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Using harvested yeast
« on: March 14, 2018, 06:13:23 PM »
I asked a similar question a few months ago and got some great feedback from "Todd H." who seems to have a technical background in yeast genetics.  It appears that from a biological perspective, it may be better to keep the yeast in the beer that it was taken from. I like that simple is better :)

All Things Food / Re: Chicago Deep Dish
« on: March 11, 2018, 01:18:32 AM »
Yum!  Looks like a really nice execution.  Great attention to detail with the sliced cheese, homemade sausage and hopefully you found the right kind of tomato sauce.  Mouth is watering...

I grew up in Chicago and being 2100 miles away now the only options are to make from scratch. It took a few dozen tries to dial in the ingredients and the dough, but always better than any local place claiming to have the real deal.

All Grain Brewing / Re: tangerines
« on: January 23, 2018, 01:32:50 AM »
Appreciate the correction and information based on direct experience.  I imagine the juice is a small-ish percentage of total fermentables?

All Grain Brewing / Re: tangerines
« on: January 22, 2018, 09:03:58 PM »
I have heard that fermented orange juice (tangerines also, perhaps) taste a lot like vomit. The rind without pith may add some nice flavors and aromas when added as a late boil addition.

Equipment and Software / Re: brew bucket
« on: January 10, 2018, 06:07:57 AM »
Middle ground on price may be the Chapman fermenter, for your consideration. Close to $120 (sometimes less than $100 if they have a sale), all stainless.  I like that it blocks light, is easy to clean, and has a very tight lid seal.  I added the spigot from the SS Brewbucket for $20 to my 7 gal Chapman and have been very happy with it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Defect Diagnosis
« on: January 09, 2018, 01:27:45 AM »
Thanks!  Maybe it's time to replace o-rings and gaskets in the fermenter.  I will get some idophor and give that a try too before the next round.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Defect Diagnosis
« on: January 07, 2018, 10:31:30 PM »
They are thermowell temps inside the wort.  I use an external chiller and cooling coil inside the fermenter.

Yeast and Fermentation / Defect Diagnosis
« on: January 07, 2018, 07:01:03 PM »
I recently brewed a gluten free Pale Ale using the Ground Breaker Brewing recipe (with different hops) that was posted a few months ago. I racked to keg last night and something was clearly off.

I normally brew all grain, so a partial mash brew seemed fun with the intent to make a GF ale for a few gluten sensitive friends that don't drink beer. Brew day went without issue. I started with RO water, added a little gypsum and calcium chloride to suit the style. Wort pH was 5.35 before the boil. The wort tasted fine going into the fermenter. I used US-05 which became active about 12 hours after pitching.  I kept fermentation at 66-67 for 5-6 days and ramped up to 68-69 after activity seemed to subside. OG was 1.052 and FG was 1.009 after 11 days.  Fermentation seemed slower that usual, but steady.

After racking to keg and adding dry hops, I evaluated a sample from the fermenter. Appearance was as expected (light gold / orange).  Aroma was earthy with some rubber in there!  Maybe a touch of phenolic.  I did not get band aids directly, but maybe there is some of that in there too.  Flavor matches the aroma if that makes any sense. I also noticed that there was a thick layer of very loosely flocculated yeast at the bottom of the fermenter. I think I lost at least .75 gal during racking to keg. I have never seen that with US-05 or from the 4-5 other liquid strains I typically use. Photos at link below - note that I did seem to transfer some hop matter from the boil kettle because my revised whirlpool method did not work as planned to collect trub in the middle.

My question is if anyone has experienced this type of defect and/or the yeast flocculation behavior.  I suspect that I got an infection somewhere, despite my usual liberal use of Star-San and extensive equipment cleaning. Maybe my RO water source gave me some chlorine? I'm trying not to blame the GF ingredients :) but the next batch is likely go back to my usual recipes.  I'm going to let this one sit in the keg for 1-2 weeks and then likely dump it, but it would be nice to understand what may have happened.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Building Water for Gluten Free Pale Ale
« on: December 10, 2017, 05:28:48 PM »
Andy - thank you for the finding this reference! There is a wealth of great info in there. Your comment made me think back to when I started out and was doing partial mash kits.  I never adjusted water and the beer turned out fine. I did not think to consider that the extract already has most of the necessary salts but that makes complete sense.  Much appreciated.

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