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Messages - TeeDubb

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: Question circulating glycol
« on: November 09, 2018, 11:04:34 PM »
One other thing: there is also the matter of viscosity. A pump designed to lift or pump water may not perform the same for a more viscous fluid like PGW.  You have to consider the concentration and temperature.

2
Equipment and Software / Re: Question circulating glycol
« on: November 09, 2018, 08:58:03 PM »
Its simply a material compatibility issue. But you would have to know what the pump is made from (everything the liquid touches) to make an assessment.  If things do degrade, the pump would likely leak internally and fail or the housing and impeller may start to dissolve.  As an example, if the pump is made from PVC, it would not last long.

http://sevierlab.vet.cornell.edu/resources/Chemical-Resistance-Chart-Detail.pdf

So you don't waste gallons of glycol, you could submerge the pump in a sample of glycol for a few weeks and watch for changes, degradation. Or find a suitable pump.

3
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Screwed up!
« on: October 26, 2018, 01:25:52 AM »
Good catch on the boil. I totally missed that. Agree that there could be some astringency. But sometimes things turn out better than expected despite the mistakes we make.

4
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Screwed up!
« on: October 25, 2018, 10:07:49 PM »
All is not lost!  The grain should be settled at the bottom of the fermenter. Assuming you have another vessel about the same volume as your fermenter (like your boil kettle), sanitize that vessel and rack / transfer the wort to there using your autosiphon from the top of the fermenter.   Then clean and sanitize your fermenter and transfer the wort back in. Pitch your yeast if you have not done so already.  As long as everything is sanitized and fermentation has not started up, (your brew day was today), you should be fine.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: I scorched my grain bag :(
« on: October 23, 2018, 05:32:16 AM »
Just a caution that some of the plated ones on Amazon can rust over time at the joints.  Mine did after about 7-8 brew sessions.  Will be upgrading to a stainless spacer soon! Worth the extra expense from my perspective and the height adjustment is a nice feature.

6
Equipment and Software / Re: BIAB Mash Recirculation Through Lid
« on: October 17, 2018, 04:48:29 PM »
Great question.  I added one of these manifolds to my system and it avoids aerating the hot wort and helps distribute wort along the top of the grain.  This has helped to stabilize temperatures within the grain mass more quickly after dough-in. I throttle the pump discharge to achieve about 1.5-2 qts/min.

https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/re-circulation-manifold-for-infussion-mash-tuns

7
Ingredients / Re: Unfermentable lactose
« on: October 15, 2018, 03:56:03 AM »
Getting back to your original question, it may help to measure your OG before and after you add the lactose.  A pound of lactose in 5 gal of wort should add about 6-7 points of gravity.  It will also raise your final gravity by about the same amount.  For your efficiency calculations, I think you mean your 'mash conversion efficiency'
and if that is what you care about, I would omit the effect of the lactose addition. 

Note: most brewing calculators, like the one on Brewer's Friend, can include un-fermentable sugars like lactose in the mash efficiency calculation.  All things equal, adding lactose to the formula they use will drive down the reported mash efficiency simply because the sugar in lactose is un-fermentable.  So, a little confusing if you're trying to compare your mash process efficiency on a IPA vs. a stout with lactose.

8
Beer Recipes / Re: Where are the GUs?
« on: September 28, 2018, 09:48:56 PM »
Just checking my brew notes from a milk stout made last year.  1 Lb of lactose added to 6 gal of wort near the end of the boil increased the OG about 7-8 points.  It also raised the FG by about the same amount.

9
Beer Recipes / Re: Beer Mystery
« on: July 11, 2018, 03:49:48 PM »
I first smelled something during the batch sparge and turned turned off the heating element.  I started stirring the mash a bit and then got a big burp of air that came around the grain bag.  After I collected all the wort, I could see some discoloration and burnt wort on the heating element close to the bulkhead.  It all cleaned off with a little scrubbing and I ended up not using the second runnings from the batch sparge since there were some little bits of carbon particulate in the wort.

I now place my mash paddle between the grain bag and the side of the kettle when I mash in and batch sparge to ensure any trapped air has a path out. A full and wet grain bag seems to make a nice seal against my kettle.

10
Beer Recipes / Re: Beer Mystery
« on: July 11, 2018, 02:41:20 PM »
Another thing I have had happen on my system once, which is Grainfather-like: I had an air pocket form under the grain bag and parts of the heating element started to overheat locally which scorched the wort.  This was during a batch sparge and after the primary mash wort was collected.

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WLP028 krausen won't fall
« on: May 31, 2018, 03:36:23 PM »
I brewed a lower gravity Ale with Wyeast 1332 a few years ago and had the same thing happen.  OG was 1.046 and dropped to 1.014 in just 2-3 days.  I let it sit for 7 days just to make sure the terminal gravity was stable and to see if the sticky krausen would disappear.  It did not, so I just used a sanitized spoon to grab the mess on top, racked and bottled and everything turned out fine.  It took a while to clean the top of the fermenter!

If i'm not mistaken, Wyeast 1332 and WLP028 are both UK origin and may be genetically similar?  I would not worry, maybe this is typical of these strains.

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: One for the physics gurus...
« on: May 15, 2018, 04:06:35 PM »
Wrapping the fermenter with a damp towel and running a fan (to use use latent heat of vaporization of water) will also help to cut the cooling time.  You will have to keep the towel wet/damp as it dries out.

13
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from naturally carbonated keg
« on: May 04, 2018, 04:32:58 PM »
Sounds frustrating and I have been there too!  C02 coming out of solution (foam) comes down to temperature and pressure.  Without knowing more details and assuming the beer is not overbarbonated, I would say maybe try lowering the temperature of the beer in the keg if it is higher than 40F.  Also, try and get the pressure at the tap nozzle to be no higher than 1-2 psi.  Maybe this means increasing the length of the hose between the keg and picnic tap to increase it's total pressure drop without having to drop the pressure even more in the keg.

14
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from naturally carbonated keg
« on: May 03, 2018, 08:34:42 PM »
I think you were pretty close on your attempt to bottle carbonated beer. Couple of things could help: I spray sanitize my bottles, then put them in the freezer for 15+ min. The colder the bottle, the less tendency for C02 to come out of solution. Add a small #2 stopper to your cobra tap / racking cane (and make sure the out end of the tube has an angle so you can't block it at the bottom of the bottle). Drop the keg pressure temporarily, as you did, right before bottling.  Then as you fill each bottle, try and keep pressure in the bottle by allowing a small amount of gas flow (slow hiss) past the stopper.  Sounds tricky, but pretty easy after 1 or 2 tries. The pressure in the bottle keeps the  carbonation in the beer.  I quickly cap as the foam starts as I remove the tube/stopper. This is my workaround to mimic a bottling gun - I don't do it enough to justify the expense.

Oh, and make sure to purge the bottles with C02 as you pull each one from the freezer right before filling.


15
Ingredients / Re: First DIPA recipe attempt
« on: May 02, 2018, 05:57:23 PM »
6 oz of bittering hops seems excessive by my preference.  I think it may give you a nice high IBU number but I wonder if you will be able to distinguish it at levels higher than 125. It will also contribute to wort loss during the boil.

I agree with the other comments, and is also my personal preference for DIPA/IPAs. If you want more aromatics, then save some of the late additions for a 170F whirlpool, and go after more dry hop additions.  Oxygen is your enemy with this style and the amount of hops - do everything you can to avoid it at all stages of the process.

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