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Messages - millstone

Pages: [1] 2
1
Equipment and Software / Re: Speidel spigot sanitation
« on: February 10, 2016, 06:58:27 AM »
I have 6 Speidel 30Ls. I have 6 brand new spigots for them because I have never used them. I rack with an autosyphon.
If your not using the spigots, how did you plug the holes in the Speidel or bottling buckets? Whatever was used I assume is sanitary and does not give any off flavors?

thanks
tom

2
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brown inside shank
« on: January 26, 2016, 12:25:45 PM »
Finally got a response today. This from Erika at Beverage Factory

For the item you are asking about "SHANK4-ASC”, it is all stainless steel, the shank and tail piece.

I also asked if it was possible to order just the shank without all the other parts, mine seem all fine, she answered with “We only have the shank with all the other parts included”.
Hope this helps you out. I got a great deal from them about 4 years ago, plated shanks with 525SS perlick’s for a combo price of $25, could not pass it up. So if I have to swap out the shanks for $21 each, I believe that's still is under what the faucet alone was going for.

Tom

3
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brown inside shank
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:59:03 AM »
I sent Customer Service - Sales at the Beverage Factory a question on the makeup of this product, once I receive a return message I'll post it.

Tom

4
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Brown inside shank
« on: January 22, 2016, 09:28:08 AM »
They are not stainless. Price would be about $10 higher and it wouldn't have a welded tail piece.
Looking at Beverage Factory, they are showing an all SS with fitted tail piece just like the plated type.
All SS Contact 4 1/8" Long Shank with Nipple Assembly - 3/16" I.D. Bore Model:SHANK4-ASC ($20.95)

http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/faucets/stainless-steel-shanks/KCSHANK4-ASC.shtml

Tom

5
Equipment and Software / Re: TDS Meter
« on: November 12, 2015, 06:55:29 AM »
If you are one of those lucky ones that use tap water to brew, a TDS meter can be an dictation of a change in the water due to seasonal changes or other causes.

Thanks  hopfenundmalz, I'm very lucky to use lake Michigan water, so if there is changes seasonally, how do you fix a problem. Fixing the pH is starting to make sense to me, so is there a "TDS for Dummies" document that can get me to better understand?

Thanks everyone for your reply's

tom

6
Equipment and Software / Re: TDS Meter
« on: November 12, 2015, 06:30:14 AM »
Not to sound way stupid, but as a homebrewer, how does a TDS meter help me?

thanks

tom

7
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anti oxidation ideas
« on: September 08, 2015, 05:49:40 AM »
thanks for the info, I'll check out my local LHBS's.

tom

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Anti oxidation ideas
« on: September 08, 2015, 05:29:05 AM »
For all my IPAs and American Pale Ales I use ascorbic acid to help prevent oxidation. 

Good tip, where are you guys buying the ascorbic acid?

thanks

tom

9
Equipment and Software / Re: Barley Crusher Contact
« on: July 01, 2015, 05:57:00 AM »
I just received a response from Randy at BC products, gave him this posting address, maybe he will respond here.

tom

10
Equipment and Software / Re: Barley Crusher Contact
« on: July 01, 2015, 04:51:24 AM »
i just sent a test email to    bcproducts@peoplepc.com   about 5 minutes ago and no bounce back, so maybe everything is OK now.

tom

11
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Separating Trub from Yeast Slurry
« on: December 06, 2014, 06:36:32 AM »
I also use glass jars to store my yeast (with fermented beer on top), but I use aluminum foil to cap them, held on with a rubber band.

tom

12
Equipment and Software / Re: Gamma pet food containers
« on: October 18, 2014, 05:27:42 AM »
I use them, have two. As for the ring, I drilled 8- 3/16'" holes about one inch from the bottom of the lid, then took tin snips to cut a narrow "^". Bought one of those lid remove tools from Menards for about $5. I keep the lid rig off so sanitizing is easier, then push it on before adding wort. After fermenting and transferring, pop the lid and ring off and pour out the the yeast. For lifting, wife made lifting supports from 2" webbing. Have a cheep Harbor Freight hoist to lift the container into and out of my chest freezer fermenting chamber. For cleaning, I do a rinse of the remaining yeast and junk, fill the container up with hot water and add some PBW. Let that sit for a day, rinse and let dry.

tom

13
Ingredients / Re: looking for a good deal on bulk hops
« on: November 04, 2013, 05:43:59 AM »
The best place I've found is Hop Heaven from Ted Hausotter. Ted is very knowledgeable about what he sells and more importantly very nice and accommodating.

I can only find this store on eBay, does Ted have a website?

thanks

tom

14
Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 07, 2013, 05:01:43 AM »
Whoa, those aluminum cam locks are a lot less expensive than the stainless.

Edit:  Millstone, I've heard that aluminum doesn't play well w/ hard cleaners, such as PBW, Oxiclean and Starsan.  Not sure if this is true or not, but have you had any issues using these cleaners with your aluminum cam locks?

I do use all three chemicals in my setup, I also have an aluminum 15 gal HLT and a 20 gal BK along with those aluminum camlocks. When the brew day finishes I pump either Oxi or PBW through all pots and lines, with camlocks attached, for about 30 minutes. I do not do long soaks, hours, with the chemicals. The camlocks don't show any deterioration or pitting, still has some of its shine, not that dull look like the inside of an aluminum pot. I did change out the rubber washer that came with them to silicone O rings from oringsandmore.com, nice fit and no leaks.

tom

I could well be wrong but I am pretty sure that the dull look of the inside of an aluminum pot is the passivation layer and is actually protecting the pot from reactive agents. on any contact surface you want that dull finish.

The statement about the inside of the pot was meant to show that the aluminum camlocks still had some shine to them and not a dingy, dirty, scrap yard look.
I also have the female connectors on the hoses.

tom

15
Equipment and Software / Re: Pump disconnects
« on: August 04, 2013, 05:01:16 AM »
Whoa, those aluminum cam locks are a lot less expensive than the stainless.

Edit:  Millstone, I've heard that aluminum doesn't play well w/ hard cleaners, such as PBW, Oxiclean and Starsan.  Not sure if this is true or not, but have you had any issues using these cleaners with your aluminum cam locks?

I do use all three chemicals in my setup, I also have an aluminum 15 gal HLT and a 20 gal BK along with those aluminum camlocks. When the brew day finishes I pump either Oxi or PBW through all pots and lines, with camlocks attached, for about 30 minutes. I do not do long soaks, hours, with the chemicals. The camlocks don't show any deterioration or pitting, still has some of its shine, not that dull look like the inside of an aluminum pot. I did change out the rubber washer that came with them to silicone O rings from oringsandmore.com, nice fit and no leaks.

tom

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