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Messages - hopsindahood

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All mills are not alike, though.  This is why the gap number isn't always ideal.  My mill has knurled rollers and the gap I use is not the same as what I use on a smooth roller mill at my local homebrew shop.

This article describes the ASBC method to adjust your mill in order to get the maximum extract.  For a 2 roller mill, all you need is a #14 seive, which costs $20 shipped.

When you crush, you want to be left with approximately 50% of the grain in the sieve and the other ~50% in the pan (where the total - 100%.) It's not difficult or expensive to set your mill correctly with this method.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Gelatin finings and oxidation?
« on: May 08, 2019, 11:32:48 PM »
But to purge, you have to fill the keg with liquid and push it all out with CO2,  so you clearly have to open the keg once after purging to add the finings.

Doing it that way, yes.

I don't do it that way if I am adding finings to the keg. I purge with co2. A few fills of co2 purges the atmosphere from the keg. The fining also gets homogenized as the keg is filling. Once the keg is full, I do a few more co2 purges before force carbing. I've been doing this for years and often keep kegs for extended periods of time. I've never had an oxidized beer using this method.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Finings in keg vs fermentor?
« on: May 08, 2019, 11:25:41 PM »
If you fine in the keg and cold crash, the vast majority of sediment will drop to the bottom of the keg.  If you pull a half pint of beer, you'll pull all the sediment out of the area around the dip tube and there won't be any more sediment to pull.  Some beers take a while to drop clear, so if you're not waiting long enough, you may continue to get sediment, but you can always pull a small amount, dump it and then do your pour.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Gelatin finings and oxidation?
« on: May 08, 2019, 11:17:55 PM »
When I gelatin fine in keg, I pour the gelatin in after I sanitize, purge fully, then fill the keg from the "out" post and bleed off the co2 from the pressure valve.  Works like a champ and limits the times I open the keg after purging to zero.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Help with direct heating mash tun
« on: February 22, 2019, 01:14:28 AM »
I haven't ever measured the flow rate, but I shoot for between 45-60 minutes lauter time.  When I recirc, I try to achieve a similar flow rate to lautering. Once you know what that flow looks like coming off the mash tun, you can eyeball it.  The easiest way I've found to achieve this flow rate when recirculating it is to use a wort grant.  You can use a kitchen pot, even. Basically, you lauter in to the grant, then pump from the grant back in to the mash tun.  You will likely need to keep adjusting the flow rate to avoid the grant emptying, but you are assured of the correct flow this way. If you want to get fancy, you can make a grant out of a stainless 2 or 3 gallon kettle and add a port near the bottom for the outlet and an inlet port in the lid.

All Grain Brewing / Re: I Did a Kesselmaische Dunkel.
« on: February 21, 2019, 07:05:28 PM »
When I decoct, I use a large stainless sieve that I got from a restaurant supply store. I use a decoction calculator to determine the volume to pull out and I scoop out roughly the same liquor to grist ratio in to another pot. If you scoop quickly, plenty of wort will come with the grain. I rarely need to add additional wort to the decoction pot. I bring that to a boil and introduce the boiling decoction back to the mash tun to raise to the desired temp. I usually pull a little extra off so that I don't need to be so precise.  I add the decocted portion back and stir until the desired temp is reached, which means I usually have some left over. I let that cool and add it back to the mash once it won't raise the temp significantly. This method doesn't require pumping, so it's easy to clean up. You can even do it with as few as 3 vessels (brew kettle, mash tun, decoction pot) and 1 burner.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Help with direct heating mash tun
« on: February 21, 2019, 06:54:34 PM »
Even with insulation, you're not likely to have a completely consistent temperature. I would suggest stirring the mash periodically. There is no harm in doing so. You also need to make sure that you are pulling wort off the bottom at a pretty slow rate. If you pull too fast, you will compress the grain bed and can introduce channeling as the wort tries to find an easy path to get to the bottom. when I use my HERMS, I watch the temp coming out of the mash tun and don't let the wort that is coming back in to the tun go above 170. You lose a fair amount of heat going through the pump and lines, so even if you're pulling substantially warmer wort off the bottom, it should cool a few degrees when it goes through the pump and lines.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Increasing body in stout recipie
« on: January 17, 2019, 05:50:08 PM »
+1 on water profile

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Trying a lager with Kviek
« on: December 20, 2018, 12:28:37 AM »
I haven't tried it personally, but I've heard that what you are suggesting will produce a clean beer from sources that I respect.  Many kveik strains have a very wide temperature range that they will ferment within. You will need to experiment. I would be sure to use a POF- strain.

Equipment and Software / Re: full herms or rims system vs. rims tube
« on: November 16, 2018, 08:13:32 PM »
I use a stainless immersion chiller that I hang in my HLT and recirculate wort through with a pump. It took a bit of experimenting, but it's really easy to control the temp. I have a ball valve on the pump output that I use to control the flow rate with, which is important. You need the ability to shut things off when it gets too hot and you also need to be able to control the flow out of the mash tun so you don't compact the grain bed. I already had the pump, so the only additional cost was the immersion chiller and the quick release connectors, which was all total, under $100. If you need to buy everything, it's a more difficult decision.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Bootleg biology.
« on: November 16, 2018, 08:02:14 PM »
If it has bacteria in it, you might want to skip hopping in the wort and just dry hop post-ferm. Many strains of bacteria are very hop intolerant, so you will inhibit whatever they would otherwise bring to the party, including lactic acid production. As you get to know how a mixed culture behaves, you can use IBU to control the tartness to your taste.

When I make raw ale, I just toss hops in the mash. Beersmith is pretty good about calculating the IBU, so I find this method easiest. After fermentation, if I want more hoppiness, I just dry hop.

Yeast and Fermentation / Affect of barrel aging or infection?
« on: June 08, 2018, 04:58:22 PM »
I made a barleywine in March, 2018 and put half of the fermented beer in a barrel and the other half in a keg.  My intent was to have enough beer in keg to blend if I needed to. After about 1 month in barrel, the airlock started bubbling and has continued to bubble for the past month. I pulled samples from the barrel and the keg and compared the pH and refractometer gravity today and there are differences.

This is my first experience with barrel aging, so I'm not sure exactly what to expect. I was careful with sanitation, as always, so I feel the chance of infection is fairly low. Both samples taste good and don't show any off flavors or other indicators of infection. Cause for concern? I'm planning to test again in 1 month to see if there are additional changes.

Left side is the kegged sample pH (3.98) and the right is the barrel sample (3.82)

Left side is the kegged sample (1.044) and the right side is the barrel sample (1.041) Yes, I know this is not actually the specific gravity, but it's a simple way to compare without wasting a lot of beer.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Newbie question about SG
« on: January 25, 2018, 12:19:12 AM »
How are you taking your gravity readings? If you're using a hydrometer, carry on. If you're using a refractometer, remember that it is not accurate when alcohol is in the solution. There are calculators that you can use to determine the correct gravity reading when alcohol is present, but I find it easier to use a refractometer for OG and a hydrometer for FG. When you are trying to determine if fermentation is complete, I use a refractometer, since it only "wastes" a drop or two of beer. Since I'm only looking for a change in gravity and not the actual reading, this works fine. I take a sample and write down the number. Wait 2-3 days and take another sample and check it again. If the reading changed, then you know something is still happening. Wait another 2-3 days, take another reading and repeat as necessary. I've experienced a wide range in fermentation times depending on the yeast, OG, temperature, etc. Don't assume 2 weeks is always the fermentation time. I'd also recommend calibrating your refractometer regularly. Mine drifts quite a bit in between uses, for some reason.

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