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Messages - BrewnWKopperKat

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hops can convert starches
« on: October 10, 2018, 10:58:05 PM »

I listened to a podcast a couple of months ago (can’t remember which channel) that had people from Allagash talking directly about this. At least I think it was them.  It referred to a link to “The freshening power of hops” which is located in Google docs.

MBAA podcast 098: Dry Hop Creep ?

2
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Watch that pricing!
« on: October 09, 2018, 10:08:54 PM »
In you don't mind buying from InBev...Midwest Supplies is advertising free shipping on bulk grains and their pricing seems reasonable....

https://www.midwestsupplies.com/homebrewing-ingredients/brew-malt-grain-adjunct/bulk-sacks

Agreed, their final cost is reasonable when compared to for the online stores that I buy from. One is $3.00 less (total cost) than Midwest, the other is $4.00 more.  Neither was offering "free shipping" on those orders. 

As part of reading this thread, I took a fresh look at the shipping options for the online stores that I used.  From one of the stores, small items can be sent US Mail.  So I could order two 1 oz packages of Saaz and have them delivered for a little less than $5.00 (total). 

So back to the OP:
Quote
Then realized I was most likely paying more for the same product making the lower free shipping amount null and void.



3
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Full 5 gallon boil, or ???
« on: October 09, 2018, 09:07:49 PM »
... I have been doing a full 5 gallon extract boil. Is there an advantage in doing a half (2 1/2 gal boil and adding the cold water instead of the full 5 gal? Is the end result any different? ...

Online, "Beer and Wine Journal" is a good resource for extract based brewing.  The article "How Much Wort Should Extract Brewers Boil?" (beerandwinejournal.com/extract-boil-volume/) is a good starting point for reading more about the impact on IBUs and color with partial boils. 

When I brew with extract, it's typically a full volume boil for 30 minutes with late DME additions (roughly half the DME before the start of the boil and the rest towards the end of the boil).  Precise timing for the DME additions varies based of the hop schedule (if the recipe calls for a hop steep, I'll add the DME around 10 minutes before flameout, if there's a first wort hop, DME is added when the water reaches 160* F). 

When I do color estimates for extract-based recipes, this (at https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=29885.msg392903#msg392903)
Quote
If you look at the spec sheets for the Briess DME, you'll see that for a fixed volume, the color goes up with gravity. For example, for their Pale Ale and Golden Light extracts, the colornin °L is 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 for 1.020, 1.030, 1.040, 1.050, and 1.060 respectively.

helps me get reasonable color estimates.  A 30 minute full boil and late DME additions helps get the SRM within the range for the BJCP styles that I brew (yes, it's at the high end of the range). 

If a lower color matters for a batch, I'll BIAB.

4
All Grain Brewing / Re: First all grain brew
« on: October 04, 2018, 12:17:26 AM »
When do you do a batch sparge?
A fly sparge?

Does it depend on the recipe?

I'm currently a BIAB brewer, so I'll step aside and wait for those who sparge to help out.

5
All Grain Brewing / Re: First all grain brew
« on: October 03, 2018, 11:47:33 PM »
I've gone through some recipes on brewers friend, and I'm having trouble understanding the recipes and procedures.


Could someone help me out?

Can you provide a link to the Brewers Friend recipe(s) you are considering and point out where you are having trouble? 

6
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Opinions on yeast rehydration
« on: September 16, 2018, 10:45:21 PM »
For those that direct pitch (without rehydration), do you use the yeast just one time? or do you harvest / reuse the yeast? 

FWIW: I almost always direct pitch (without rehydration), but don't reuse the yeast.  In the past, I have periodically rehydrated (without reusing), but have not noticed a difference. If/when I start harvesting / reusing yeast, "yeast health" would appear to make a difference.  Does rehydration help when harvesting / reusing yeast?  Does aeration help? ...

7
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: LME Volume Conflicts & Questions
« on: August 24, 2018, 12:34:21 AM »
Northern Brewer (and some other kit makers) are smart when it comes to converting recipes from all grain to extract - use full containers (3.15 lb or 6.0 lb) of LME and, f possible, full bags (3 lb or 1 lb) of DME. 

My experience is that partial bags of DME are easier to deal with than partial bottles of LME.

How To Brew, 4e uses Munich, Vienna, and/or Pale Ale DME (not LME, DME) in many recipes.  So these DME varieties may have introduced after the recipes in Brewing Classic Styles were written. 

So for the American Pale Ale recipe on page 134 of Brewing Classic Styles that calls for:

- 8.1 lbs of Light LME
- 0.5 lbs of Munich LME
- 0.5 lbs of Wheat LME

start with full containers of fresh LME and convert the remainder to DME using https://www.jaysbrewing.com/2011/11/17/lazy-chart-for-converting-dme-lme-grain/

I brew "less than 5 gallon batches", so DME is what I use.




8
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Amarillo IPA Help
« on: July 15, 2018, 12:48:31 AM »
Briess also makes a Vienna dry extract (1 lb & 3 lb packages) that's available from some online homebrew stores.


addition (about 10 minutes after my original post):  would you consider doing a partial mash using the vienna, flakes oats (and probably some two row to get the necessary diastatic power)?  If you steep crystal malts at 150 for 20 - 30 minutes, you're well on your way to doing partial mashes.

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: pale malt difference
« on: July 06, 2018, 10:08:10 AM »
I can’t remember who did it, but I read an experiment where they taste tested a beer brewed with 2 row vs one brewed with Pilsner. With all else the same, very few folks could tell the difference.

Brulosophy has done a couple of grain comparison experiments (and some of the articles are reposted at the AHA site).  Here's the link to the pale malt two row vs pilsner:

http://brulosophy.com/2017/08/28/grain-comparison-pale-malt-2-row-vs-pilsner-malt-exbeeriment-results/

10
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Vindication for us non-rehydrators
« on: June 18, 2018, 08:50:27 PM »
I think on the periphery of this topic is another question (your assumption?) that has to be answered first: does direct pitching in wort really kill some of the yeast, or is that outdated information?  For that matter, does rehydrating first damage yeast?

Sure, data can always be contradicted or invalidated, but we don't typically used the word "assumption" to refer to the results of repeated hypothesis and controlled experiment. That's a "theory".

The article in the OP's link suggests direct pitching does no damage, we'll have to wait for the full report.

I just re-read it to make sure, and there's no mention of either potential or observed viability effects.

The most interesting thing I noticed was the comparatively enormous error bars for the "W" trials - without any discussion of methods it's hard to infer much from that other than that the results from the rehydrated samples were remarkably inconsistent. A large variation in ethanol content without a corresponding variation in ADF at least suggests contamination to me, and if that trial was also the one exhibiting outlier levels of VDKs and acetaldehyde that's a smoking gun IMHO.

Master Brewers podcast #93: Active Dry Yeast (http://masterbrewerspodcast.com/093-active-dry-yeast) may be of interest.   

11
The recipe calls for 6 lbs of dark LME. 

My first thought would be to try to track down the original all grain recipe.

Is there a way to figure out what grains and weight to replace the DME? the Recipe is here in case that helps.

You may be able to do a "pretty close" conversion if you know the composition of the dark LME.  Some manufacturers will list the composition of their DME/LME at their web site.  For Briess, that information is here: http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Extracts.htm.  My concern with this approach is that converting from all-grain to partial mash using dark DME/LME may result in a partial mash recipe that doesn't convert back to a "close enough" all-grain recipe.  As a final note, LME will have a different PPG than DME. 


12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Off The Topper Kit
« on: April 25, 2018, 08:58:44 PM »
Adding the 5 oz of corn sugar to the boil and working with the volume until it matches the OG of 1.070 I get a volume of 1.55 gals.

So the "Additional Information" section lists pre-boil OG (70) and post-boil expected volume.  Seems odd, but a  couple of additional adjectives would clear up the confusion.

Hopefully I won’t end up with a ridiculously low OG

Your post-boil OG should be higher than your pre-boil OG (same amount of sugars in the wort, but less volume).


[...] but the instructions after the boil mention sanitizing the one gallon fermentor and not to fill it higher than the one gallon mark as the yeast need room to work. So the end product is to be one gallon.

The instructions in the kit say:  "NOTE:  Make sure you do not fill the jug higher than the “ONE GALLON” raised lettering."

A one gallon carboy holds a gallon of liquid when completely full.   When filled to the raised lettering, it holds around 120 oz. 

As I suggested earlier, the recipe is targeting a end of boil volume of more than one gallon so that it's practical to transfer 120 oz of wort into the gallon carboy without bringing along "too much" hop trub. 



13
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Off The Topper Kit
« on: April 25, 2018, 10:17:44 AM »
I’m wondering what the OG is for those who’ve brewed it as the numbers don’t match, and I hadn’t included the corn sugar to what I ran through the calculator which would only make it that much further apart.

So has anyone brewed this kit and can confirm the numbers?

Where are you getting 70 as the OG?  NB has recipe kit instructions online.  I did not see an OG listed in the current online instructions.

The recipe uses around 3.5 oz of hops.  With a starting volume of 1.5 gallons, I wonder if the recipe is targeting a end of boil volume of more than one gallon so that it's practical to transfer 120 oz of wort into the gallon carboy without bringing along "too much" hop trub.  However, I didn't see where the recipe listed batch size.


14
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Hop stands and bitterring addition
« on: April 12, 2018, 09:58:39 PM »
A couple of additional links that may be helpful:

IBU Calculator - Diversity Methodology (FWH, Boil and Whirlpool bitterness): https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=30046.0 - this will lead you to the Zymurgy article.

An Analysis of Sub-Boiling Hop Utilization: https://alchemyoverlord.wordpress.com/2016/03/06/an-analysis-of-sub-boiling-hop-utilization/

15
... how to calculate the effect of adding hops to the kettle after the mash, and 15-20 minutes before the boil is reached, and the period after the boil when the wort is above 80C/176F. ...

These two links may be helpful.

IBU Calculator - Diversity Methodology (FWH, Boil and Whirlpool bitterness): https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=30046.0

An Analysis of Sub-Boiling Hop Utilization: https://alchemyoverlord.wordpress.com/2016/03/06/an-analysis-of-sub-boiling-hop-utilization/

I haven't looked at recipe software recently (in the last year) to see if the software has "caught up" with the these models.

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