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Messages - jwaldner

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16
One, my regulator measures differently in the keezer (lower) as opposed to outside the keezer and I really couldn't get a good read on it to determine whether or not I needed more CO2.

The high-pressure gauge will change any time there's a change in temperature. No matter what temperature it's at, it'll start dropping once it's about 10% full.

In the keezer it read in the red like I needed more CO2.  Outside of the keezer it reads above that at least giving me a decent indication of when it's running low.  Either way, it works to carbonate your beer, it's just easier for me to read outside and refill the tank without moving around kegs.

17
I just moved mine to outside my keezer for two reasons.  One, my regulator measures differently in the keezer (lower) as opposed to outside the keezer and I really couldn't get a good read on it to determine whether or not I needed more CO2.
Two, and the most important, there's more room for beer now!

Cheers!

18
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Cleaning Bottles - Soaking - How Often?
« on: April 17, 2011, 09:28:18 AM »
My regiment is to rinse after use, then gather my bottles for the week and soak them in PBW for a few hours, then rinse with hot water (bottle jet washer), let dry, then put them back in the case and cover them with saran wrap to keep the dust/bugs out.

Before bottling, I pull them off the shelf then sanitize them with Star-San before bottling.

Seems to work pretty well for me although I prefer keggng when I can :-)

Cheers!

19
Then I agree, bed depth is probably the problem. 

Bed depth impacts efficiency?

It was my understanding that if the mash bed wasn't deep enough that when sparging the water would move through to quickly and not extract the sugars as efficiently.

20
Thanks Tom, I'll give it a shot. I've also considered just using a smaller mash tun and see if that works any better next time.

Cheers!

21
I experience the same thing.  When I do a 5.25 gallon batch I get about 50% efficiency on my system (using a 26-gal stainless pot).  However, when I do a 10.5 gallon batch I get about 76% efficiency. 

Wow, only getting 50% would have me seriously looking for problems.  That's pitiful :(

Sure is, but when I do the 10.5 batch of the same beer it jumps.  Since I'm using such large pots for my mash tun and kettle the only conclusion I draw it's due to the depth of the grain bed.
Are you batch sparging like the OP?
I'm fly sparging.

22
I experience the same thing.  When I do a 5.25 gallon batch I get about 50% efficiency on my system (using a 26-gal stainless pot).  However, when I do a 10.5 gallon batch I get about 76% efficiency. 

Wow, only getting 50% would have me seriously looking for problems.  That's pitiful :(

Sure is, but when I do the 10.5 batch of the same beer it jumps.  Since I'm using such large pots for my mash tun and kettle the only conclusion I draw it's due to the depth of the grain bed.

23
I experience the same thing.  When I do a 5.25 gallon batch I get about 50% efficiency on my system (using a 26-gal stainless pot).  However, when I do a 10.5 gallon batch I get about 76% efficiency.  I've also noticed that if I do a stir about every 15 minutes I get better efficiency.

I think it has something to do with the depth of the grain bed but haven't researched it.

24
Extract/Partial Mash Brewing / Re: Aluminum Stock Pot
« on: April 09, 2011, 02:11:24 PM »
I used aluminum as my first brew pot for years.  It heats quickly, is lightweight and served me well until I upgraded to stainless.  It's a great starter pot.

Cheers!

25
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs WLP570 Smoothie!
« on: March 27, 2011, 07:16:52 AM »
Perhaps I'm being too fussy about the clarity.  According to the BJCP guidelines it should have "good clarity" as opposed to some other styles "very clear," "brillantly clear" or even just "clear." I guess "good" is just a subjective term anyway when it comes to judging.

It just seems a bit odd I have to bottle it to get the clarity to even a "good" level and in the keg it won't seem to clear at all.  I wonder if carbonating right away after kegging rather than letting the yeast settle out for several weeks makes a difference?


Cheers

26
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs WLP570 Smoothie!
« on: March 26, 2011, 08:41:37 AM »
That occurred to me too except that right before I bottled the beer I took a sample from the top of the keg with a wine thief and it was still pretty cloudy.  This is after being in the keg for 4-5 months.  After two weeks in the bottle the beer was crystal clear.  I really believe that something happens when you put it in the bottle.  I have experienced this at work with the unfiltered-bottled conditioned ciders we do as well.

At what temp are you observing this phenomena? If the kegged sample is cold and the bottles are at room temp the difference could be chill-haze.

And I drank four Duvel's last week and I couldn't claim they were very bright. It's a slightly hazy beer as it is.

UPDATE: I went ahead and bottled the beer and it's been about a week and a half.  I had one last night and it was nearly crystal clear! Bottling does help but I would still like to be able to enjoy this beer from the tap.  I think I'll try switching to the Wyeast equivalent next time and see if that makes a difference unless anyone has any other suggestions short of filtering.
Cheers

27
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Which Yeast for Kolsch?
« on: March 25, 2011, 07:06:41 AM »
I use WLP029 with very good results and have won several medals for my Kolsch.

I ferment at 67F until complete, transfer to a secondary and leave it at 67F for 4-5 days then drop the temp down to about 34F for 6-weeks.  It comes out real clean and crisp.

Cheers

28
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs WLP570 Smoothie!
« on: March 13, 2011, 12:27:20 PM »
I brew a Strong Golden every year and have exactly the same problem with clarity in the keg.  In my experience no course of action or time produces a very clear beer.  Like you I have tried gelatin, near freezing temps, and six months of aging.  Last year in frustration I bottled the keg with my beer gun just to get it out of there.  It was with sheer joy that I discovered clear beer in the bottle within a couple weeks.

I'd suggest filling a bottle from the tap, leave it for a week or two, and see what kind of results you get.  I have had good luck with this but otherwise this yeast is impossible to clear.  The only explanation I can come up with is that the greater surface area/beer ratio of the bottle has something to do with the clearing.

Thanks, you may be onto something.  I dropped the temp several days ago and still don't see much of a change.

The first time I made this I wasn't kegging and bottle conditioned it.  Since I've been kegging I haven't been able to get it to clear at all.  I'll give it a few more days and then give this a try.

Cheers

29
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs WLP570 Smoothie!
« on: March 09, 2011, 05:11:25 PM »
11 lbs of carapils?  That's not a typo?   :o  That's more than 25% of the grist.

Ya Tom, you're right. It was 11 ozs not lbs.   ;D

30
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: White Labs WLP570 Smoothie!
« on: March 09, 2011, 06:11:29 AM »
I did try dropping it down to 38F but didn't think dropping it lower would do much good but I guess it couldn't hurt.  I also tried fining with some unflavored gelatin but haven't seen any significant change and I don't have a way to filter so that's out.

The recipe is very simple consiting of about 29 lbs of Pilsner and 11lbs of Carapils and 2.5lbs of cactus flower honey with a 90 minute boil for a 10.5 gal batch.  The first time I made it I had won two medals with it but after following the same process/recipe I just can't seem to get it to clear anymore and this is my third time making it.

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