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Messages - jwaldner

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31
Yeast and Fermentation / White Labs WLP570 Smoothie!
« on: March 08, 2011, 07:48:15 PM »
I've brewed a Golden Belgian Strong several times using White Labs WLP570 and just can't seem to get this yeast to flocculate and drop out.  The beer ferments out fine and I reach my FG like expected but the yeast seems to hang in suspension no matter what I try.  Initially I tried kegging it and letting it set for 4-5 weeks at about 38F but I still got a yeast smoothine when I tried to pour it.  I finally gave up on that batch thinking I had really screwed up somewhere in the process, dumped it and tried brewing it again.

I haven't kegged it yet but still see an enormous amount of yeast still in solution.  I've conditioned it for over a week at 36F and haven't noticed any clearing.  I then tried adding gelatin a couple of days ago and seeing if it would settle out but see no change.  Although I know this yeast strain is a low flocculater I'm at a loss and just don't know how to get it to drop out of solution or if I'm doing anything wrong.

Any help from someone who has ran into this problem with this strain or any type of similar yeast problem would be much appreciated.

Cheers

32
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Perlicks
« on: March 02, 2011, 09:52:52 PM »
I built my keezer within the last year and purchased Perlicks because of the problems I heard other faucets have with sticking, even if you clean them regularly.  I can't speak for the extra foaming though but if I pour properly it doesn't seem to foam more than it should.

Cheers

33
Kegging and Bottling / Sanitize CO2 line & connecter?
« on: February 16, 2011, 05:44:59 PM »
This may seem like a dumb question but should I be sanitizing my CO2 line and connector before hooking up a keg or bottling with my Blichman Beer Gun?

I would assume that I would only need to sanitize the liquid side since it comes in direct contact with the beer but then I think I guess it's possible that the CO2 could push something into the beer that might cause an infection. It's probably better to be safe than sorry and sanitize, thus the dumb question.

Thanks

34
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Matching Keg, Post & Poppet
« on: February 13, 2011, 08:14:59 AM »
I went ahead and bought new poppets to match the lugs.  I hope that will be sufficient and I don't have to come back to buy all new lugs and poppets again.

It's been months since I bought the kegs (online) and I don't know if they would do anything about it but rest assured I'm armed with the right information this time and will not make this mistake again.

Thanks to you all!

Cheers

35
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Matching Keg, Post & Poppet
« on: February 12, 2011, 03:04:09 PM »
Thanks for all the info.  After reviewing it, I feel like I got ripped off when I bought the reconditioned kegs or I'm still not understanding something.

I have kegs that say "Cornelius" but have a model name like "Super Champion" or "XI."  On those kegs I have the Type "A" fittings but the Type "B" poppets.  From the information, I need to now spend more money and buy either the correct fittings or poppets or both!

Maybe I should have stuck with  bottling  :'(

36
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Matching Keg, Post & Poppet
« on: February 12, 2011, 09:07:19 AM »
Here's a good write-up by Mike Dixon that helped me when I had a similar question:

http://hbd.org/carboy/ballkegclean.htm
[/quote

Thanks, that helps.  It does talk about how the poppets should match the post but is it also important for the post to match the type of the keg or do they all basically have the same type of threads/fittings?

Cheers

37
Kegging and Bottling / Matching Keg, Post & Poppet
« on: February 11, 2011, 04:11:52 PM »
I've recently got into kegging and I think I've been having some trouble with my kegs leaking CO2 so I went to inspect my kegs and it seems I have some differences between the types of posts and poppets that came on my refurbished kegs.

All of my kegs are of the Cornealius type. However, my posts seem to be of the Type A for ball lock which I understand to be for Firestone, Challenger and Super Challenger kegs.  Upon further inspection, it appears some of my poppets are a mix of the Type A and Type B. 

If I'm using the wrong type posts to match the keg will this cause CO2 to leak?  In addition, if I have the wrong type poppet to match the post will this cause CO2 to leak? 

How critical is this to match exactly?

Cheers
T

38
Kegging and Bottling / Re: How Much CO2 Does it Take?
« on: February 09, 2011, 06:45:07 PM »
Get some of this stuff: http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/gas-leak-detector.html

It's a ridiculously large amount that will last you a lifetime, and cheap enough to pay for itself the first time you don't accidentally blow down a tank.

Sold!!! Thanks, I'll get it on order and give that a try.

Cheers

39
Kegging and Bottling / Re: How Much CO2 Does it Take?
« on: February 09, 2011, 06:56:55 AM »
Thaks all,

I've tried several times with some sanitizing solution spayed around the fittings to see if I can find any leaks but don't really see anything bubbling.  I wonder if I took a CO2 detector from my house and put it in my keezer if this would at least give an indication of CO2 leaking?

Thanks again

40
I don't have any recommendations but can also confirm I have received this feedback from both competitions and friends.  I also believe I have followed the instructions to a tee and my beer seems carbonated to style in the keg. 

I love the ease of use from the beer gun especially after trying to do it on the cheap but am more confident about my bottle conditioning than the use of the beer gun at this point.

Cheers

41
Kegging and Bottling / How Much CO2 Does it Take?
« on: February 08, 2011, 09:09:51 PM »
I started kegging about 6-months ago and although it's been a bit of a learning curve and I've had some issues I thought I was getting the hang of it.  However, I recently had to refill my 10 lb tank again only after about a month of use.  From other posts it seems a tank of this size should last me about three times that.

I have had some problems with poppets going bad but have replaced all of those and everything else seems airrtight.  I do carbonate all my beers to style some at 10 psi, some at 11 psi or some even lower and leave it at those setting until the keg goes dry.  I usually keep three on tap and have a seperate regulator for each beer. 

Does this seem normal to run through this much CO2 for three kegs in only a month?

Thanks and cheers

42
Ingredients / Re: Dry hops for a sticke alt
« on: February 01, 2011, 09:22:49 PM »
Okay, I have an honest question.  If it's okay to dry hop a sticke alt, is this deemed acceptable by the German commercial brewers, or by American interpretations of the style, or both?  Enquiring minds want to know (I want to know!).
I made one a few months ago and it turned out pretty well.  I used this BYO article as a basis for my recipe. 

http://www.byo.com/stories/beer-styles/article/indices/11-beer-styles/1210-old-world-alt

I hopped it with .5 oz Hallertauer each week for 4 weeks.  It may have been a bit too much for some of my non-homebrewer friends though but hopping at those low temps gave it a really unique and tasty character.

Cheers

43
Ingredients / Ingredient Guides (Malt/Hops/Yeast)
« on: December 31, 2010, 09:24:21 AM »
Does anyone know if there are any guides published describing all of the malt, hop or yeast varities available?  I know there are some internet sources like the resource guide on BYO and some white papers by the manufacturers but I was trying to find something consolidated and in print for easier reference.

Cheers and have a happy New Year!

44
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Is my fermentation stuck?
« on: November 28, 2010, 08:13:23 PM »
You can use the following formula to calculate your attenuation and get a pretty close estimate to determine whether or not your yeast has finished.

[(OG – FG) / (OG – 1)] X 100

Checking the Wyeast site, for optimum fermentation you should get 73% to 75% attenuation for this strain. If you're starting OG was 1.073, you got about 72%, pretty good I think. For you to get it as low as you want you would have to get 83% attenuation which is not possible with this yeast strain. If you still want to try and bump it down a few points my suggestion would be to rouse the yeast a bit by shaking, give it 2-3 more days and see if it drops.

Cheers


45
Kegging and Bottling / Re: CO2 question.
« on: November 22, 2010, 10:12:52 PM »
I'm fairly new to kegging myself and built my keezer about 3-4 months ago. One thing I have learned though when troubleshooting these systems is to take things one step at a time and break them down to small segments to isolate the problem. Here are some of my suggestions:

1.  If you're working with more than one keg narrow that down first by removing the others and concentrating on one to monitor.
2.  If you're CO2 feeds into a manifold or a secondary regulator,eliminate that and go directly to the keg to see if you have any improvement.
3.  If you've got your liquid out side connected disconnect it for the time being and see if you have any improvement.
3.  Check, double check and triple check your connections. Make sure your gas in connection is connecting to the proper connection and your poppets are seating properly. Although difficult, if you're not familiar with distinguishing your gas in from your liquid out posts you can connect improperly. Even though they are labeled, the actual posts may have been switched around. The gas posts should be notched/diamond cut around the nut itself. In addition, make sure your clamps are tight around your barbed fittings.


Take it slow and change only one thing at a time, monitor for improvement and move on to the next item until you're able to isolate the problem.

Good luck and Cheers!

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