Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Kaiser

Pages: 1 ... 110 111 [112] 113 114 ... 119
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Water in yeast plates?
« on: November 28, 2009, 09:09:30 PM »
If the culture is old, I tend to steak them out to isolate a single cell growth. But oftentimes I just skip that step.


All Grain Brewing / Re: wort quality and water ratio question
« on: November 28, 2009, 07:25:49 PM »
You're welcome. That's what we are here for.

I just had to brew a doppelbock at 1.3 qt/lb b/c I have only a 5 gal MLT. That reminded me how much more I like my 2 qt/lb standard mash thickness. :)


Maybe one of the Mods here can dig it up?

I just shot off an email to see if we can add it to the downloadable Zymurgy articles.

cool. Thanks.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Alpha Amylase
« on: November 28, 2009, 09:32:41 AM »
Do a Fast Ferment Test (Zymurgy Nov/Dec 2009 or on the pilsner wort. You want the FG of the finished beer to be the same as the FG of the FFT. This means that there are no fermentable sugars left in the beer and the beer is fully attenuated. Pilsners are generally fully attenuated and have an attenuation of 80-84%. Starting at 12 Plato this means they finish at 1.9-2.5 Plato.

You may also go away from a single infusion mash and use a step mash. 63C for 30 min, 65 C for 30 min and 72C for 30 min should give you a good attenuation.

Using artificial enzymes in mash and fermenter will have undesired consequences as the others already said. The FFT is your tool to check your fermentation performance.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Slowed down my sparge,and got a boost
« on: November 27, 2009, 05:33:08 PM »
I often try to avoid this confusion by referring to "two run-offs" instead.

Slow sparging gives you better efficiency because the grain bed is rinsed more evenly. If you run off to fast, the wort and water are more likely to look for the path(s) of least resistance.


I'm always aiming to blow off the kraeusen. Most of the German authors I have been reading are very ademate (spelling) about that. They say that Kraeusen that falls back into the beet  can give it a harsh bitterness. But I haven't found the opportunity to make a side by side yet. I may end up doing this as a small scale batch. Until
I can evaluate this process parameter more closely I stick with blowing off the gunk.

This is one of the cases where I want to have data to justify my process but there are other things that I'm interested in more and which I'd like to test first. Hence the lack of experimentation with this on my side. 


All Grain Brewing / Re: undissolved vs. dissolved chalk
« on: November 27, 2009, 11:58:13 AM »
So for the dense folks here (that would be me) the recommended chalk additions like promash give us to get proper water mineral levels will be off as some of the chalk will stay undissolved. I guess that's why some folks add it directly to the mash.

Adding chalk to the mash or to the water w/o dissolving it is the same.

(most) Spreadsheets and water calculators will calculate the amount of undissolved chalk necessary. This calculation seems to work until about 300-400 ppm chalk concentration and it assumes that chalk contributes only half its alkalinity potential. You can check that by entering 100 ppm chalk (0.1 g in 1 l water or 0.38 g in 1 gal water). The resulting alkalinity as CaCO3 (i.e. as chalk) will only be 49 or 50 depending on the used formula. Not 100 ppm as you would expect.

While this is not as intuitive as it should be, it seems to work when it comes to predicting mash pH through residual alkalinity.

If chalk is dissolved it does not have this odd behavior and it is also able to raise the mash pH more than just 0.2-0.3 pH units over the distilled water pH of the grist. I.e. the pH that you would get with very soft water.

OTOH, if I take a carbonator cap and add my chalk in the PET bottle, throw in some distilled and gas it, the stuff will go into solution?
I take it has nothing to do with the pressure, but rather the formation of carbonic acid in the water?
Presuming I shake the snot out of the PET bottle, how long will this process take?
Please straighten me out here, thanks.

I don't exactly know why dissolved chalk behaves so much different in brewing compared to undissolved chalk. If I test the alkalinity of a dissolved and a suspended chalk solution, of the same chalk concentration, I get the same alkalinity. I.e. the neutralizing power towards an acid is the same.

The dissolved CO2 will form carbonic acid which lowers the pH and converts the carbonate of the chalk to bicarbonate. That makes the chalk much more soluble. If the concentration of chalk that should be dissolved is fairly large, simple atmospheric CO2 pressure is not enough and you need to force carbonate the water. Do that by shaking. Then let it stand and you'll notice that the liquid  starts to clear up. I still have to do some searching for a formula that gives me the minimum CO2 pressure that is needed to dissolve a given concentration of chalk.

If you want to give this a try, I'm glad to help. I also started to test my spreadsheet that allows for grist and water based mash pH prediction. I used it for the Doppelbock I brewed today and the prediction was only off by 0.01 pH units. Now that may have been luck, but for other beers in the past It has been off by less then 0.05 pH units which is the precision I was hoping for.


Equipment and Software / Re: Draining the boil kettle....
« on: November 25, 2009, 08:46:14 PM »
About 30 min. If you are letting it settle in the chilled wort you'll still have some cold break in the wort. But I would not worry about that.


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxygen; too much, or not enough
« on: November 25, 2009, 02:38:10 PM »

and pressure, but I have trouble controlling that

To some extend you do and it makes a difference. The O2 pressure in air is about 0.2 bar (~3 psi) while it is 1.0 bar (~15 psi) in pure O2. As a result you cannot overaerate with air and at common pitching teemps air saurated water wort is likely around 8-10 ppm. This is different with pure O2 where you can actually overoxygenate the wort. But pure O2 also allows you to get sufficient O2 into high graviy worts where you are limited with the use of air.


General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Standards for Homebrewing Calculations
« on: November 25, 2009, 02:07:28 PM »
I ask because I would like to develop my own spreadsheet application for recipe design and result estimations.  I know there's a ton of software already written, but even the commercial software packages results seem to vary.

They vary b/c most of them are just estimations. Hop utilization, for example, depends on many more factors than boil time and wort gravity. As a result each of the brewers who came up with a formula found slightly different results. I'd pick one and stick with it.

The only real standard we have is the ASBC (American Society of Brewing Chemists) or EBC (European Brewing Convention) and even those official bodies don't necissarily agree on everything. At least they are close. You can buy books where the standards are defined, but those are expensive and not necessarily valuable to you anyway.

It all depends how complicated you want to make it and how complicated it has to be. Given the precision at which we measure during our brewing process highly accurate formulas might be moot anyway. I suggest that you look around on the web and in the literature (Designing Great Beers might be a good start). If you find differences check how big the difference is and if the authors are making different assumptions.


Equipment and Software / Re: Draining the boil kettle....
« on: November 25, 2009, 01:57:00 PM »
If you have a bazooka screen or something else that sticks into the kettle and disturbs an even rotation of the wort, you may prevent that nice trub cone to form.

I just brew more than I actually need, chill, let it settle and rack clear wort from the top. The wort/hop/trub sludge at the bottom gets fitered through a paper towel in a large funnel w/ screen. The clear wort is then frozen and used for future starters. I use a lot of wort for yeast propagation which is why this works well for me.


Post #100, Woohoo

All Grain Brewing / Re: Various water recipes
« on: November 25, 2009, 12:31:21 PM »
Not unless it's a porn forum!  ;)

They have those  :o 

(insert reference to the Family Guy episosde, where Quagmire finds out about internet porn, here)


All Grain Brewing / Re: Various water recipes
« on: November 25, 2009, 12:02:03 PM »
kai - I don't know if i'll get in trouble posting a link to another forum, but here's the discussion we were having:

I don't think you should get in trouble. I'm a big fan of cross linking. I'll check it out.


All Grain Brewing / Re: Various water recipes
« on: November 25, 2009, 11:55:37 AM »
He says that most craft breweries use RO (he's friendly with a lot of the Cali and Denver micros), and frankly, every brewpub I've been to and brewer that I have talked to uses RO water and adds some back. 

really. I didn't know that. On the other hand I tend to be less in touch with what US craft breweries do than what a German brewery might be doing. For the latter I think that if the RA of the tap water matches what is needed for their beer, the water from the tap will be used w/o modifications. Which is why emulating the local water from a paricular German brewery is oftentimes a good start. But there are exceptions as well.

If Stone is using RO water, I'll have to check with them how they handle chalk in their very dark beers.


Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Water in yeast plates?
« on: November 25, 2009, 11:42:23 AM »
Do you use a loop or needle to inoculate your stabs? With visible yeast on the one you use? Thanks for posting the log book.

to make a stab, let the agar set w/o resting the vial at an angle. Then take a sterilized needle and stick it into one of the colonies on the plate. After than just stab it a few times into the agar and let the culture grow a little before putting it into the frigde. I don’t think it matters much if you have visible yeast on the needle. I usually have a little bit.

Some are now as old as 3 years.

That means I have been able to keep the culture going for 3+ years. That involves periodical re-culturing. I stop harvesting the lawn once it starts looking brown. That usually happens after 4-7 months. At that point I may inoculate a new slant from the old one, get some yeast from a stab culture or start a plate culture from which I inoculate a new slant.

My oldest yeast is a culture of WY2206 and sometime in the future I want to brew a side-by-side with that yeast and a fresh yeast pack from Wyeast. I’m curious if I can detect taste and or fermentation performance differences.


Pages: 1 ... 110 111 [112] 113 114 ... 119