Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Brewtopalonian

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8
1
The enzymes that turn starches to sugar in the mash work best in the pH 5.2 - 5.6 range, so you need to have the mash pH correct or you may suffer from poor efficiency. Steeped roasted grains are usually added at the end of the mash, when their acid contribution is too late to have any effect.

Thanks, that kind of steers me in the right direction.  I guess I won't add any alkaline to my mash profile.

2
Ingredients / Water Profile: Stout (Steeped Roasted Malts)
« on: Today at 03:53:13 AM »
Hello All!

I'm brewing an Irish Stout tomorrow (not dry, just a nice rounded stout).  I'm currently steeping my roasted malts in room temp RO water.  I'm using Martin's Bru'n Water and trying to come up with a good water solution for this recipe.  I would like to have some RA in the final beer in order to improve body.  If I use the mash profile's provided by Martin for either a Black Full or Dublin, my pH is rather high (5.83) after making the adjustments.  I don't want to add acid and alkalinity.  Should I not worry about the mash pH being that high because the roasted malts are going to add acid to the overall beer?

Here's the recipe:

8.75lb Golden Promise
.5lb Flaked Barley
.5lb Chocolate Malt (250SRM) <--- cold steep
.5lb Roasted Barley (695SRM) <--- cold steep
.25lb Crystal Medium (77SRM)

Thanks for the feed back, hope you all are enjoying a cold one!

3
All Grain Brewing / Re: Increasing body in stout recipie
« on: January 04, 2019, 04:14:14 AM »
Another question.  What were your OG and FG numbers?  If it attenuated way down, that could also give the perception of being thin.

OG = 1.070
FG = 1.022
Man, that should have tons of body to it! Bordering on cloying.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

^^^Exactly what I was thinking. Respectfully, another possible reason for why you think the body is thin: your palate. The beer's numbers and ingredients suggest that it should be full of body and fullness, provided the carbonation is reasonable. Did you get a second and third opinion on the beer? Based on the recipe, there's not much more you can do to increase the body. You could add a little wheat malt, but if you didn't get body from the recipe in its current form, you likely won't detect any more body from adding wheat.

Yes, I have had three other friends of mine try this with a similar response, descriptions included thin and almost watery.
That's crazy man, the only thing I can think of is carbonation or water profile.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


4
All Grain Brewing / Re: Increasing body in stout recipie
« on: January 04, 2019, 03:06:00 AM »
Another question.  What were your OG and FG numbers?  If it attenuated way down, that could also give the perception of being thin.

OG = 1.070
FG = 1.022
Man, that should have tons of body to it! Bordering on cloying.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I agree, body should be better than it is currently being perceived, that is why I asked the question. Something just doesn't seem right.

Also, this was bottle conditioned. Unfortunately, I have yet to switch to kegging.....hopefully this year......
Are you still use the tried and true 1oz. Dextrose per gallon?  That will give a higher carbonation profile than you would typically want in a stout.  Ideally, serve this in a keg on nitro.  I've noticed a big difference since switching to beer gas.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


5
All Grain Brewing / Re: Increasing body in stout recipie
« on: January 04, 2019, 02:53:38 AM »
Another question.  What were your OG and FG numbers?  If it attenuated way down, that could also give the perception of being thin.

OG = 1.070
FG = 1.022
Man, that should have tons of body to it! Bordering on cloying.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

6
All Grain Brewing / Re: Increasing body in stout recipie
« on: January 03, 2019, 02:13:56 AM »
What was your mash temp/pH?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


7
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulated SS Kettle Specific Heat
« on: October 16, 2018, 02:07:29 AM »
"Relax, don't worry, have a Homebrew!"

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


8
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulated SS Kettle Specific Heat
« on: October 15, 2018, 09:18:24 PM »
Another thought is to just get a hold of the guys at Clawhammer and ask them to send you their equipment profile.  If you watch their YouTube videos you'll see that they use BeerSmith, so I'd assume they also have an equipment profile already built.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


9
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulated SS Kettle Specific Heat
« on: October 15, 2018, 04:43:36 PM »
Oh, you're using Clawhammer?! Nice! I've been wanting to try that system.  I think I wouldn't even worry about it then!  I would just put my grains in at the set mash temp and let it rise.  Shouldn't take but a couple minutes if that.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


10
Equipment and Software / Re: Insulated SS Kettle Specific Heat
« on: October 15, 2018, 04:01:57 PM »
Hi Koch!

I had to mess with this same issue quite a bit in Beersmith.  I have an SSBrewTech MT that is double walled SS with insulation inbetween (think yeti cup). I had to simply adjust this through trial and error, but mine came out to be .18.

There is, however a more scientific way to go about this that I learned in my chemistry class.

Weigh your vessel empty, write this down.
Fill with 2.5 gallons cold water, weigh this, subtract the difference of the vessel, this is the weight of the water ( use metric weight)... Water weighs 1g/ml or 1kg/L. 

In a separate vessel, pour another 2.5gallons and record it's weight as well.  Begin heating this water to 80*C. (Being accurate with all measurements is important).

Meanwhile, place an accurate (to .01*C) thermometer in your kettle and record it's temperature.  Record the initial temperature of water, stir gently, record a temp reading every minute for 4 minutes.  On the fifth minute it should have balanced out.

When your hot water is ready, pour it into the cold water and watch your thermometer.  Stir, cover, record temp quickly. 

Record temp every 30 sec for 5 minutes.

In Excel or another spreadsheet program, enter the time as your x-value and temp as your y-value and create a graph.  Use the best fit option for a line overlay.  This is only the data from the time you added your hot water to the calorimeter (kettle in your case). 

Take the final temperature (temp at time 5mins) and subtract the initial temp from the final temp.  Multiply this number by the mass of the cold water and 4.184 to find the amount of energy gained by the cold water in Joules. 

Finally subtract the energy gained by the cold water from the energy lost by the hot water, this is the energy absorbed by the calorimeter (kettle) then divide the energy gained by the kettle by the change in temperature, this is the calorimeter constant for your kettle that you will use in BeerSmith.

Hope this helps, I had to refresh myself on this myself, here's a website that I got the info from.

http://Https://sciencing.com/determine-calorimeter-constant-8018985.html



Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

11
Ingredients / Re: Water Profile for Brown Ale
« on: October 07, 2018, 10:37:40 PM »
Robert, I literally just slipped him 20$ in hopes of getting it! Lol

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


12
Ingredients / Re: Water Profile for Brown Ale
« on: October 07, 2018, 09:01:45 PM »
I'm going to assume that you're using the free version of Bru'n Water. It only reports what the mashing water quality will be. That mashing water calcium and sodium content should be significantly reduced when the low alkalinity sparging water is added.

Don't be afraid of sodium in brewing water. Below 50 ppm is fine for pale beers and below 100 can be OK in dark styles.

I just had the big, "oooooOOOOOOoooooo" moment there.   Yes, the free version 1.18a.  Okay, I'm gonna trust it and go with it!  Thanks so much Martin! I owe you a homebrew!

13
Ingredients / Re: Water Profile for Brown Ale
« on: October 07, 2018, 08:40:41 PM »
PS: brown malt is not a crystal malt.

That did change a little bit!  However, here is what Bru'n Water is telling me to add to get to the desired pH of 5.3:

I have to add 1g/gal of Baking Soda and .2g/gal Pickling Lime - which gives me way too much sodium (80ppm) and a bicarbonate level of 295 in my mash.

OR

I add .5g/gal Pickling Lime and .36g/gal Baking Soda - this gives me high calcium (72ppm), still slightly higher than called for Sodium (34ppm), and Bicarbonate of 302

Do I just trust the science and go with it?  Is there anything wrong with having that high of a Bicarbonate in this particular mash?  Will it create astringent flavors? 

Thanks for your input Martin!  I really do appreciate it!

Here is a link to exactly what I've got going on right now:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QBJoDQLnOM5Scx0Cpd34cLhYDC3T8QwW/view?usp=sharing

14
Ingredients / Re: Water Profile for Brown Ale
« on: October 07, 2018, 04:11:31 PM »
Hmmm interesting, I'm no chemist, but I'm seeing something happen in Bru'n Water that isn't making much sense to me.  Adding Pickling Lime Ca(OH)2 increases Bicarbonate levels.... but Bicarbonates are CO3 .  There Hydroxide OH- Ions from the Pickling lime, which should correctly reduce pH, but no Bicarbonates.  Now I really do want the chemist to chime in!   :o

To get my pH to the correct 5.3 I need to increase my supposed bicarbonate level to 256ppm which seems ridiculously high and I'm afraid it will ruin other aspects of my beer.  Also, my sodium is off the chart or my calcium will be off the chart if I go the other way.  I'm at a loss here.

Edit:  Maybe my mash sucks?  Perhaps a recipe building issue and not a water issue at all?

15
Ingredients / Re: Water Profile for Brown Ale
« on: October 07, 2018, 04:00:17 PM »
Maybe becasue CaCO3 is so ineffective at raising pH?  I stopped using it years ago for that reason.  I now use baking soda for slight adjustments and pickling lime for larger ones.

Hmmm. Interesting!  I'll try that!  Thanks Denny, always great getting your advice!  Curious to see if Martin chimes in on this one.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 8