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Messages - narcout

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1
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Transfer to secondary
« on: Today at 01:05:07 PM »
Our beer  appears to still be fermenting and we are debating on whether or not to transfer to secondary now or wait longer until it completely settles.

You should wait until it is finished fermenting and the yeast has had a few days to clean up some of the less desirable by-products of fermentation before you rack out of primary. 

2
All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mash to Batch
« on: Today at 06:58:37 AM »
Any take on this...how to replicate a step mash regimen with a single temperature infusion mash?

If you take a specific step mash regimen and think about what each of the steps is trying to accomplish, you can use your knowledge of ingredients and mash chemistry to decide on a process that will work well in most circumstances.  However, there are some steps (such as a ferulic acid rest) that you probably can't really replicate (though proper yeast selection and fermentation management may help).

If you post a specific step mash, someone will be able to suggest an appropriate single infusion mash temp.

You can always use your boil kettle or HLT as a direct fire mash tun to perform a step mash and then transfer to your regular mash tun for lautering (or use boiling water, perform a decoction, or set up a RIMS or HERMS system).

3
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Just joined this forum
« on: May 28, 2015, 05:33:41 PM »
Hello Everyone,

Brewed for years, stopped for about  five. Made it a priority a week ago, visited Austin Homebrew Supply to buy some piece parts. I walked out with a new FastFerment unit.  A AHS German Wheat recipe kit is on day 4. Fermentation slowed then stopped yesterday. Saturday will be the removal of the ball, removal of the trub. I soda keg so another week to keg.

So far I'm loving the FastFerment. Saw a comment about oxidation in reattaching the ball for stage 2.

There should still be a lot of yeast in suspension even after you remove the ball, enough that oxidation probably isn't a huge concern.

You mention that you keg, as a precaution you could purge the ball with CO2 prior to reattaching.

Not oxidation related, but I'd consider waiting a few more days before you remove the bulk of the yeast from the fermentor.

4
All Grain Brewing / Re: Step Mash to Batch
« on: May 28, 2015, 03:33:37 PM »
Most recipes in the book list a series of step mashes and temperatures. How can I deduce a good temperature to mash at in these cases to closely replicate the recipe utilizing batch sparging?

Step mashing and batch sparging are not mutually exclusive.  Are you asking how to replicate a step mash regimen with a single temperature infusion mash?

Secondly, some recipes call for no sparge. Would I ever NOT sparge during batch sparging?

If you are brewing a recipe without sparging, it's kind of irrelevant whether you typically batch sparge or fly sparge.   

 

5
Ingredients / Re: 10% Phosphoric Acid/ CaCl2 in Mash
« on: May 28, 2015, 03:12:57 PM »
What are the effects of 10% phosphoric acid in RO water?

It lowers the pH with minimal additions since RO water has little buffer capacity.  Most of the popular water adjustment spreadsheets can help you predict the magnitude of the change.  You aren't likely to need to use acid to lower the pH very often if you are brewing with RO or distilled water.

Secondly, normally I'll add CaCl2 into the strike and sparge water to dissolve. Gordon Strong mentions to add the X amount of CaCl2 "to the mash". Is he referring to just dumping the dry salts into the mash and stirring them up at that point?

My assumption would be that he means add all of it to the mash as opposed to reserving some for the sparge water. 

6
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sanitizing tap
« on: May 28, 2015, 08:54:15 AM »
I guess everyone's experiences are different, but I've not found the need to discard beer that has been sitting in the lines, sanitize the faucets between pours, or use faucet caps.

The only time I sanitize my faucets is when I'm bottling beers for competition.  I'll unscrew the spouts and dunk them in Iodophor and also spray some Iodophor up into the faucets.

7
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Orval dregs
« on: May 27, 2015, 09:04:28 AM »
Below is what Kristen England said about it on the NB forum a few years ago.  The full thread is here: http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=40289&start=15

Fermentation
Orval pitches the Bastogne yeast for primary at about 3million cells/ml wort which lasts about a week or so at quite a cool temperature in 60-62F. They then spin most of the primary yeast out and adds the Brett (B. Brux) in secondary at 1000-5000 cells/ml. It stays in this 'holding' tank for about 3 weeks at 56F. Let the beer stay in the sencondary and then add the dry hops for the final week.

Bottling
The beer is now polished (centrifuged/ 'filtered') which leave it basically clean. They they repitch both yeasts at the same rate they pitched before which will have the following make up:
Main fermentation yeast : 3 millions cells/ml
Brettanomyces : 1.000 to 5.000 cells/ml

8
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sanitizing tap
« on: May 26, 2015, 11:20:27 AM »
My experience with those plugs was that they did more harm than good.
I haven't used them, but was considering it.  What harm are you referring to?

They caused my Perlicks to develop a noticeable odor of stale beer.  Turns out I was better off letting them air dry between pours. 

Fortunately, I don't have an issue with fruit flies so there was no compelling reason to continue using them.

9
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Dual Faucet Kegerator Question
« on: May 26, 2015, 08:58:12 AM »
You're going to want something like this.  I would call and verify that each shutoff valve has its own check valve (I have the 4 valve version of this product and they do).  That will prevent keg "crosstalk" - where gas from one keg can flow into the other.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/2-way-co2-distributor-w-1-4-mfl-shutoffs

I would set up the the entire system to use 1/4" MFL rather than barbs.  For example, use these (http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ball-disc-1-4-mfl-liq) instead of these (http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/ball-disc-1-4-barb-liq).

Also, consider using stepless ear clamps instead of worm gear clamps.  You can get the necessary clamping tool on Ebay for about $10.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/stepless-clamp-no-145-oetiker

Edit:  Don't forget these flared nylon washers for your metal to metal connections (but you don't need to use them on the keg disconnects).

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/flared-nylon-washer

Edit 2: It's likely that the draft tower coming with your kegerator has chrome elbow shanks.  I would suggest replacing them with stainless steel elbow shanks.  You can get them at www.micromatic.com.

10
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Sanitizing tap
« on: May 26, 2015, 08:50:00 AM »
My experience with those plugs was that they did more harm than good.

11
Beer Recipes / Re: Saison 2.0
« on: May 13, 2015, 12:29:38 PM »
Yeah, I pitched one @ 90F and held there last year. Hit FG in like 9 days. Any other yeast would make a fuselly mess there, but it was surprisingly good. That strain is a different animal altogether.

I also tried this last year.  The beer turned out quite well, though it still took 5 weeks to hit FG.

Wow. I remember mashing that one @ 147F, too. Did you mash higher ? I'm surprised it took that long at 90.

I mashed at 148 for 75 minutes.  I think it ended up finishing at 1.004 or 1.005; it just took awhile to get there.

It was a nice change from the 3711 (which I use a lot).  Next time I'm going to try pitching both strains.

12
Beer Recipes / Re: Saison 2.0
« on: May 13, 2015, 12:15:12 PM »
Yeah, I pitched one @ 90F and held there last year. Hit FG in like 9 days. Any other yeast would make a fuselly mess there, but it was surprisingly good. That strain is a different animal altogether.

I also tried this last year.  The beer turned out quite well, though it still took 5 weeks to hit FG.

13
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Food Grade CO2
« on: May 13, 2015, 12:06:49 PM »
So do tanks get contaminated over time?  One more thing to obsess about.......

They need hydrostatic testing every so often (what is it, every 7 or 10 years?).  If you are swapping out tanks at a gas services company, it shouldn't be an issue.

Not as likely if you have check valve installed- preventing back flow of beer in regulator and tank.

You definitely want to make sure you have the proper check valves in your system.

14
Events / Re: NHC forum meetup
« on: May 13, 2015, 10:42:03 AM »
There will be blank nametages so you can wrote your forum handle on them to ID yourself.

I was actually planning on wearing one of those all weekend, since I will know absolutely no one by sight (well, other than you and Drew perhaps).

15
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Food Grade CO2
« on: May 13, 2015, 10:37:23 AM »
I swap tanks at AirGas, and I'm pretty sure they have stickers on them that say food grade (I can't check right now though).

Whether or not it really means anything, I can't say. 

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