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Topics - narcout

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Equipment and Software / Insulated stainless mash tun
« on: November 24, 2014, 06:00:55 PM »
So many new homebrewing products have come onto the market in the past few years, doesn't it seem strange that no one is selling an insulated stainless mash tun?

I see homebrewers in Europe using them, but I don't think they are readily available in the States.

Am I the only person who would be interested in something like this?

Beer Recipes / Ale with honey and oats
« on: November 01, 2014, 11:02:13 AM »
I've been wanting to brew with honey for a while, and I finally got around to it a few weeks ago.  I tapped the keg last night, and I'm pretty happy with it.

5 lbs. 2-row
4 lbs. Belgian pils
1 lb. oats (toasted at 300 degrees for 30 min.)
8 oz. British dark crystal

2 oz. EKG (60 min.)
1 oz. Styrian Goldings (10 min.)
1 oz. Styrian Goldings (5 min.)
1 oz. Styrian Goldings (flameout)

1 lb. Ames farm honey (added post chill but prior to racking to fermentor)

Wyeast 1332 Northwest Ale (appropriately sized starter)

OG: 1.062 (6 gallon batch)
FG: 1.009
ABV: 7%
IBU: 50

Yeast and Fermentation / Wyeast 1332
« on: October 18, 2014, 07:50:05 PM »
What are your all experiences with this yeast?

I tried it for the first time in a beer I kegged this afternoon and found it to be a slow fermenter (there were still signs of active fermentation on day 14) but pretty attenuative.

It brought a 1.062 beer down to an FG of 1.009 (mashed at 152; 9% honey).

The Pub / PBR Sold
« on: September 19, 2014, 04:57:28 PM »

Ingredients / Barley Varieties
« on: September 18, 2014, 09:15:17 AM »
Why is it some maltsters, Thomas Fawcett for example, sell malt by barley variety (maris otter, optic, golden promise, etc.) but some sell malt labeled only pilsner, pale, ESB, etc. without specifying the variety used? 

If no variety is specified, does that indicate it is likely a blend?

Also, no one seems to denote the variety used for any of their specialty malts.  Is there a particular reason for that?

The Pub / Vegan Oktoberfest
« on: September 12, 2014, 09:26:01 AM »
See you on the 4th... (seriously, I will be there).

The Pub / The Drunken Botanist
« on: August 29, 2014, 12:07:34 PM »
Someone mentioned making bitters in a recent thread, which I would like to try.

While googling it, I came across this book that I think sounds pretty interesting.

Can someone please take a look and let me know if I have the correct parts to attach a gas post to a drilled stopper?

First, the barbed end of this fitting is inserted into the drilled stopper:

Then, this piece screws on:

To which you can attach a type B keg post:

Will that work?

Yeast and Fermentation / Safbrew Abbaye Ale
« on: August 14, 2014, 08:54:13 AM »
Is this new?

I've never seen it before.

Equipment and Software / CO2 Alarm
« on: July 23, 2014, 04:34:00 PM »
Does anyone have a carbon dioxide alarm?

I'm thinking of getting one for the basement where I keep my kegerator.

Maybe something like this, though it'd be nice to find something less expensive:

Ingredients / Iodophor
« on: June 29, 2014, 04:31:41 PM »
I'm just curious as to whether anybody else here uses Iodophor over Star San. 

I know they both work well, but sometimes I feel like the last homebrewer on the planet who uses this product.

Beer Recipes / NB's Plinian Legacy
« on: June 28, 2014, 08:54:41 AM »
I don't brew a lot of other people's recipes, but I this one sounded really good to me so I gave it a shot.

I just tapped it last it.  To me, it is more bitter and has more hop flavor and aroma than Pliney.  I'd go so far as to say that it's the hoppiest beer I've ever tasted.  It could actually stand to mellow a little bit.

Beer Recipes / Black IPA (or whatever you want to call it)
« on: June 23, 2014, 10:13:06 AM »
This is what I brewed yesterday. It is a very slight variation on the Northern Brewer recipe, which I've brewed before and is excellent.

11.5 lbs. 2-row
8 oz. English dark crystal (80L)
6 oz. English chocolate malt
6 oz. Carafa III
1 lb. cane sugar

1 oz. Summit - 60 min.
1 oz. Chinook - 15 min.
1 oz. Centennial - 15 min.
1 oz. Centennial - hop stand at 180 for 20 min.
1 oz. Cascade - hop stand at 180 for 20 min.
1 oz. Centennial - dry hop
1 oz. Cascade - dry hop

Wyeast 1272 (appropriately sized starter)

Mash at 152
OG: 1.066

I oxygenated for 75 seconds and pitched the yeast at 64 degrees.  The plan is to ferment at 66. 

What do you think?

Equipment and Software / New Equipment at NHC
« on: June 16, 2014, 04:30:10 PM »
For those of you who attended the conference, was there any new equipment being shown off that's worth discussing?

Kegging and Bottling / Review of new keg from India
« on: June 11, 2014, 10:01:59 AM »
I received my 5 gallon made-in-India keg last night.  These are my initial impressions.

Build Quality.  I can’t discern any quality difference in materials between this and my other kegs (which are all used corny style kegs with rubber tops).  The walls of the keg seem to be about the same thickness, they feel like they weigh about the same, and the maximum pressure is 130 psi.  There is a bit of manufacturing residue on the keg, especially around the rubber bottom.  This might be standard for new kegs; I’m not sure as this is my first.  It seems like it will be easily removable, and I planned to give it a solid cleaning before use anyway.

Welds.  The welds on the outside of the keg are not as pretty as those on some of my other kegs.  However, I ran my hand along all the seams on the inside, and they felt exactly the same.  I would say the weld quality is not an issue.

Posts.  The posts are the typical “type B” posts that fit a standard corny keg.  I tried screwing on some type B posts from a different keg, and they fit fine.  Once you replace the universal poppet valve, the posts are just as easy to remove and replace as a typical corny keg.  The gas post is notched.

Poppets.   I was expecting these posts to have non-removable poppets, but instead they came with those universal poppets (which are removable).  The spring is quite a bit longer than what is on a standard corny poppet, and the poppets do not have feet.  The result is that there is more tension when you are screwing on the post.  I don’t really like these, and it seems like the extra tension might not be great for the threads over time.  I tried replacing the universal poppet with a standard corny poppet which made removing and replacing the posts much easier.

Lid.  The lid is a standard size corny keg lid with the standard pressure relief valve.  The valve doesn’t always seem to seat properly when released (much like a poppet valve on an over tightened post), but this could be because the spring is brand new and hasn’t been pulled a thousand times before.  When the valve doesn’t seat, a slight twist of the pull-ring fixes the issue.  It’s not a big deal, and I kind of expect this will resolve itself in time.  The pull ring is slightly smaller than those on my other kegs.

Dip Tubes.  The gas dip tube is your standard tube.  The liquid dip tube is curved but less so then those on my other kegs.  Also, the liquid dip tubes on my other kegs usually touch the bottom of the keg when the post is fully tightened.  This one sits just above the bottom of the indentation in the center of the keg.  Finally, the liquid dip tube does not have the grooves that some do to keep them oriented properly when tightening the post.  Some of my other kegs are like this, and it’s never caused me any issues though I prefer the grooved design.   

Disconnects. I had no trouble connecting or removing my standard gas and liquid disconnects from the posts.

Overall, I’m happy with this keg and the price I paid for it ($83 not including shipping).  I would buy another one, though I should point out that I haven’t actually used it yet.  I’ll post again if I have anything further to report.

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