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Messages - narcout

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1
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 17, 2017, 07:19:45 PM »
Man, I am loving my new Extech 110.  I've only just received it, but so far it is much easier and faster to use than my MW101.


2
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: How many packets of dry yeast
« on: February 17, 2017, 10:11:08 AM »
Bry-97 = Ballantine Ale

=Wyeast 1272

3
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast List: Poor Choices for LowO2/LODO/LO2
« on: February 16, 2017, 02:22:53 PM »
I have a batch fermenting now with 1450, so I should have some idea about that one soon.

1450 with 50 ppm SMB - no sulphur issues
3711/3724 blend (50/50) with 44 ppm SMB - no sulphur issues

5
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: HomebrewCon schedule...
« on: February 16, 2017, 09:55:57 AM »
Bauhaus is a little north, and is one started by a former member of the forum, he went by Pawtucket Patriot. Might drop by and say hi.

I was actually thinking about doing that as well.

6
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimental Brewing podcast Episode 34
« on: February 16, 2017, 09:55:28 AM »
On my iPhone Podcasts app, what's showing up is two copies of Brew Files #3.

7
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: HomebrewCon schedule...
« on: February 15, 2017, 12:32:58 PM »
I think the changes sound good.

8
All Grain Brewing / Re: LoDo questions
« on: February 12, 2017, 04:08:59 PM »

9
All Grain Brewing / Re: Reinheitsgabot and 'Real Ale'
« on: February 11, 2017, 09:37:45 AM »
I feel like I end up with water that is more "pure" by buying distilled and adding back salts as opposed to using what comes out of the tap which contains chlorine/chloramine and other chemicals and impurities (though still makes great beer if treated properly).

10
All Grain Brewing / Re: How long does it take you to brew a beer?
« on: February 10, 2017, 11:42:21 AM »
I'm at 6 hours, including all clean up. 

11
Kegging and Bottling / Re: New to kegging
« on: February 09, 2017, 05:59:59 PM »
There a couple different routes you can go, from storing kegs in a fridge and dispensing with picnic taps to buying or building a kegerator with a draft tower to converting a chest freezer (google “keezer”).

A few things you will need and some random info that may be helpful...

For a CO2 tank, you can buy a new shiny one or call your local Airgas (or similar) distributor and find out how much it is to join their program where you just swap out empty for full tanks when you run out of gas.  I’d go with a 10 lb. tank if you have the space.

Then you need a regulator for the CO2 tank.   There are a bunch to choose from, I have this one and am
happy with it:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/taprite-dual-gauge-co2-regulator.html

Used kegs have gone up in price and down in quality over the last few years, but lower cost, good quality new kegs are now available at reasonable prices.  Here are a few options:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/torpedo-ball-lock-kegs.html

https://beveragelements.com/beverage_elements_shop/kegs/new-ball-lock-kegs/5-gallon-ball-lock-keg-single-handle-new/

https://beveragelements.com/beverage_elements_shop/kegs/5-gallon-ball-lock-keg-dual-handle-new/

The reason you only need one CO2 tank is because you can connect the regulator to a distributor similar to the one below.  It’s nice to buy one with an extra port so you can purge kegs or rack beer when the other ports are occupied.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/3-way-co2-distributor-w-1-4-mfl-shutoffs

I like the flared versions better than the barbed versions (for both the distributors and the keg disconnects).

From the distributor, you run gas lines to the kegs which connect to the gas disconnect.  You’ll need one of each of these for each keg you are dispensing.

http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-beverage-flare.html?site_id=9

http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-gas-flare.html?site_id=9

You will also need gas and beverage tubing.  I would get at least 5 feet of gas tubing for each keg, and longer for the extra port on your manifold so you have some reach when purging etc. 

I would also get about 10 feet of 3/16” beverage tubing for each liquid connection.  Read up on how to balance a draft system to prevent foaming (it isn't very complicated and there are a lot of resources on the web; use more beverage tubing than you think you need, it usually doesn't harm anything and you can always cut it shorter if you want).

To connect tubing to flared disconnects you need a barbed swivel nut, like this:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/tubing/clamps-etc/barbed-swivel-nut-k123

Then you use a hose clamp to secure the tubing to the barbed swivel nut.  You can use the regular worm gear style clamps, but I much prefer stepless ear clamps for permanent (or at least semi-permanent) connections.  Buy a bunch of them.

They look like this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/stepless-clamp-no-145-oetiker

They do require a special clamper.  You can often find them on Ebay or elsewhere for a decent prince.  This is what it looks like (but don’t buy this one as you can get it for less than half somewhere else):

https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-14100083-Side-Jaw-formerly-Plastic-Coated/dp/B0037QFNJM

For any metal to metal connections you want to use a flared washer, like this:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/flare-fitting-washer.html?site_id=9

You do not need flared washers for the connections to the disconnects, as the disconnects already have a built-in washer.

It's also a good idea to have a little keg lube on hand:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/cip-film-keg-lube-4-oz.html?site_id=7

12
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Want to start lagering
« on: February 09, 2017, 03:13:32 PM »
What did I do wrong and how should I go about in the future trying to make a lager with the bare bones set up?

I think Kai does a good job of explaining some of the basics as well as some of the more advanced topics without it being too overwhelming for someone who is just starting out.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers

13
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 08, 2017, 10:16:51 AM »
I just checked my meter and my shorted reading was 6.57, so I'm getting near the end of that probe's life. Not too bad for almost 5 yrs of use.

Mine bounced around between 0.75 and 4.75, then seemed to settle near 3.8, but it's been almost two weeks since I last calibrated it, and it has never held calibration between uses.

Cool trick though, thanks to pfabsits for all the info.

14
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 06, 2017, 11:09:42 AM »
so it really seems like you (at best) get 1.5 yrs out of these probes depending on how often one uses them.

I think Martin said he has been using the original probe for 5 years without issue. 

My experience has been different, but I don't really know why.  I store the probe in the storage solution, only test the pH at room temperature, etc.

15
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 06, 2017, 10:12:30 AM »
I have that same meter.  After awhile, it started becoming very difficult to calibrate so I replaced the probe (I can't remember exactly how long ago that was, maybe 18 months?).

That solved the issue, but now it is starting to happen again. 

I know a lot of people like these meters, but the manual calibration drives me nuts.  I'm about to replace it with an Extech 110.

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