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Messages - narcout

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31
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimental Brewing podcast Episode 34
« on: February 16, 2017, 09:55:28 AM »
On my iPhone Podcasts app, what's showing up is two copies of Brew Files #3.

32
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: HomebrewCon schedule...
« on: February 15, 2017, 12:32:58 PM »
I think the changes sound good.

33
All Grain Brewing / Re: LoDo questions
« on: February 12, 2017, 04:08:59 PM »

34
All Grain Brewing / Re: Reinheitsgabot and 'Real Ale'
« on: February 11, 2017, 09:37:45 AM »
I feel like I end up with water that is more "pure" by buying distilled and adding back salts as opposed to using what comes out of the tap which contains chlorine/chloramine and other chemicals and impurities (though still makes great beer if treated properly).

35
All Grain Brewing / Re: How long does it take you to brew a beer?
« on: February 10, 2017, 11:42:21 AM »
I'm at 6 hours, including all clean up. 

36
Kegging and Bottling / Re: New to kegging
« on: February 09, 2017, 05:59:59 PM »
There a couple different routes you can go, from storing kegs in a fridge and dispensing with picnic taps to buying or building a kegerator with a draft tower to converting a chest freezer (google “keezer”).

A few things you will need and some random info that may be helpful...

For a CO2 tank, you can buy a new shiny one or call your local Airgas (or similar) distributor and find out how much it is to join their program where you just swap out empty for full tanks when you run out of gas.  I’d go with a 10 lb. tank if you have the space.

Then you need a regulator for the CO2 tank.   There are a bunch to choose from, I have this one and am
happy with it:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/taprite-dual-gauge-co2-regulator.html

Used kegs have gone up in price and down in quality over the last few years, but lower cost, good quality new kegs are now available at reasonable prices.  Here are a few options:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/torpedo-ball-lock-kegs.html

https://beveragelements.com/beverage_elements_shop/kegs/new-ball-lock-kegs/5-gallon-ball-lock-keg-single-handle-new/

https://beveragelements.com/beverage_elements_shop/kegs/5-gallon-ball-lock-keg-dual-handle-new/

The reason you only need one CO2 tank is because you can connect the regulator to a distributor similar to the one below.  It’s nice to buy one with an extra port so you can purge kegs or rack beer when the other ports are occupied.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/3-way-co2-distributor-w-1-4-mfl-shutoffs

I like the flared versions better than the barbed versions (for both the distributors and the keg disconnects).

From the distributor, you run gas lines to the kegs which connect to the gas disconnect.  You’ll need one of each of these for each keg you are dispensing.

http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-beverage-flare.html?site_id=9

http://www.morebeer.com/products/ball-lock-gas-flare.html?site_id=9

You will also need gas and beverage tubing.  I would get at least 5 feet of gas tubing for each keg, and longer for the extra port on your manifold so you have some reach when purging etc. 

I would also get about 10 feet of 3/16” beverage tubing for each liquid connection.  Read up on how to balance a draft system to prevent foaming (it isn't very complicated and there are a lot of resources on the web; use more beverage tubing than you think you need, it usually doesn't harm anything and you can always cut it shorter if you want).

To connect tubing to flared disconnects you need a barbed swivel nut, like this:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/tubing/clamps-etc/barbed-swivel-nut-k123

Then you use a hose clamp to secure the tubing to the barbed swivel nut.  You can use the regular worm gear style clamps, but I much prefer stepless ear clamps for permanent (or at least semi-permanent) connections.  Buy a bunch of them.

They look like this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/stepless-clamp-no-145-oetiker

They do require a special clamper.  You can often find them on Ebay or elsewhere for a decent prince.  This is what it looks like (but don’t buy this one as you can get it for less than half somewhere else):

https://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-14100083-Side-Jaw-formerly-Plastic-Coated/dp/B0037QFNJM

For any metal to metal connections you want to use a flared washer, like this:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/flare-fitting-washer.html?site_id=9

You do not need flared washers for the connections to the disconnects, as the disconnects already have a built-in washer.

It's also a good idea to have a little keg lube on hand:

http://www.morebeer.com/products/cip-film-keg-lube-4-oz.html?site_id=7

37
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Want to start lagering
« on: February 09, 2017, 03:13:32 PM »
What did I do wrong and how should I go about in the future trying to make a lager with the bare bones set up?

I think Kai does a good job of explaining some of the basics as well as some of the more advanced topics without it being too overwhelming for someone who is just starting out.

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers

38
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 08, 2017, 10:16:51 AM »
I just checked my meter and my shorted reading was 6.57, so I'm getting near the end of that probe's life. Not too bad for almost 5 yrs of use.

Mine bounced around between 0.75 and 4.75, then seemed to settle near 3.8, but it's been almost two weeks since I last calibrated it, and it has never held calibration between uses.

Cool trick though, thanks to pfabsits for all the info.

39
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 06, 2017, 11:09:42 AM »
so it really seems like you (at best) get 1.5 yrs out of these probes depending on how often one uses them.

I think Martin said he has been using the original probe for 5 years without issue. 

My experience has been different, but I don't really know why.  I store the probe in the storage solution, only test the pH at room temperature, etc.

40
Equipment and Software / Re: pH probes
« on: February 06, 2017, 10:12:30 AM »
I have that same meter.  After awhile, it started becoming very difficult to calibrate so I replaced the probe (I can't remember exactly how long ago that was, maybe 18 months?).

That solved the issue, but now it is starting to happen again. 

I know a lot of people like these meters, but the manual calibration drives me nuts.  I'm about to replace it with an Extech 110.

41
All Grain Brewing / Spunding Experiment
« on: February 04, 2017, 04:50:05 PM »
Well, I finally get a chance to try spunding.  Today is day 8 on my low oxygen saison.  The airlock was still bubbling so I took a gravity sample, and it was at 1.015. 

I've brewed this recipe quite a few times, but this is the first time I have pitched a blend of 3247 and 3711.  My guess is it will finish between 1.004 and 1.007.  Today is the only day I could possibly transfer it until next weekend so I decided to give it a shot.

I really hope it doesn't stall out on me.  I'll let you all know how it goes.

To those of you who have tried it, did you have any issues with the liquid QD getting clogged?  The beer stopped flowing when there was still about a gallon left in the fermentor.  I figured the QD was probably clogged and swapped it out for a new one which fixed the problem (but still caused a few minutes of crushing anxiety).

42
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Trub in starter
« on: February 04, 2017, 04:36:13 PM »
Isn't there zinc in wyeast nutrient?

Edit: yup. Seems like everything I need is in my wyeast nutrient

1/2 tsp of Wyeast nutriet per 5 gallons of wort yields 0.635 ppm zinc.  This is according to a thread on another forum where a member emailed Wyeast about it. 

43
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Experimental Brewing podcast Episode 33
« on: February 04, 2017, 10:56:08 AM »
A 2 hour episode can take upwards of 20 hours to put together.

Ok, I've been dragging on it, but you've just convinced me to finally become a supporter on patreon.

44
The Pub / Re: Recommend a mail-order beer store please
« on: February 03, 2017, 10:46:40 AM »
BevMo?

It looks like they deliver to WA, and have stores there.

http://www.bevmo.com/

45
Equipment and Software / Re: Using the thermostar dudal mode controller
« on: February 03, 2017, 10:42:47 AM »
I set my desired temperature around 50F for primary fermentation of a dunkel, i have used the heat and cooling modes have seen the range jump from 28F to 67F in the fridge.

Are you measuring the air temperature or the temperature of the beer?  With that controller, you will be better off measuring the temperature of the beer. 

If your fermentor does not have a thermowell, you can tape the probe to the side of the fermentor with some insulation over it to keep it from being affected by the air temperature.  I take a small ziplock bag into which I have inserted a paper towel that's been folded over a few times, tape that to the fermentor with painter's tape, and insert the probe into the space between the ziplock and the fermentor (so that the probe is touching the fermentor and the insulated ziplock bag is taped over the probe and holding it against the fermentor).

That's just one example, there are a bunch of different ways you could accomplish this.

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