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Messages - narcout

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All Grain Brewing / Re: Low Oxygen Conclusions?
« on: December 22, 2016, 08:48:27 PM »
Would like to see something delineating all the steps involved from beginning of brew day to kegging/bottling and how those could be incorporated into my normal brew schedule.

Below is my current process for ales.  It assumes a single temperature rest with no sparge.  While I've been brewing since 2005, I have only brewed 2 low oxygen batches to date, so it's a new thing for me (by which I mean you should take my process with a grain of salt).

Heat entire volume of strike water in kettle, add water minerals, bring to a boil and hold for 5 minutes, chill with stainless immersion chiller to desired strike water temperature, add SMB, Brewtan B and, if necessary, acid

While water is heating, condition grain with 2% water by weight, mill, and add to mash tun

Using ball valve on kettle and high temp tubing, fill mash tun from bottom, stir gently to break up any dough balls and even out temperature

Shut cooler and mash for desired time

Vourlauf gently and minimally, drain wort into kettle through ball valve and high temp tubing (I tie a fine mesh hop bag around the end of the tubing to catch any excess grain particulate)

Boil for 70 minutes targeting 10% evaporation, add hops, Brewtan B and whirlfloc at requisite times

Chill with stainless immersion chiller to desired pitch temperature (which for me requires recirculating ice water through the chiller with a pump), let trub settle for 15 minutes while sanitizing fermentor, transfer tubing, etc.

Add yeast to fermentor, drain chilled wort on top, oxygenate, place into fermentation chamber and ferment to completion

Purge serving keg by filling with Iodophor solution and pushing out with CO2, add priming solution, purge again by continually filling with CO2 and releasing through the PRV

Transfer beer into serving keg under CO2 pressure, purge any remaining headspace in keg after transfer, top off with a few psi to seal lid (not actually necessary on most of my kegs)

Wait a few weeks while monitoring pressure build up with spunding valve, place keg in kegerator, hook up gas and liquid lines, dispense when serving temp is reached

There are a couple places I could tighten up (utilize a mash cap, transfer to serving keg while fermentation is finishing up rather than priming), and I might make some changes to my process and equipment next year, but this is where I’m at now.

Really, the only things I had to purchase were the SMB and the stainless chiller.  The Brewtan B and the spunding valve are possibly optional.

Wish I had something on tap in one of the accepted categories, maybe next year...

Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Golden Strong
« on: December 22, 2016, 06:40:51 PM »
Maybe I'm pouring them wrong, but in my experience not all the Trappist beers have tons of foam. 

Your tripel should include some oats and wheat.

Trying to clone Tripel Karmeliet?  Fantastic beer...

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: December 22, 2016, 06:20:49 PM »
I always get confused because I reference this post:

where Kai suggests the reading are temp invariant but the. I don't see that stated anywhere in his Colorphast articles.

My experience with the Colorphast strips is that you get the same reading regardless of the temperature of the sample.  I don't know if that's because the strip cools off to room temp pretty quickly or what, but when I use them I just dunk them in the mash tun.

I've compared them against readings from my pH meter and found them to be fairly accurate.  The lighting in my house really screws up the colors though.  They're easiest to read in sunlight.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: low oxygen trappist
« on: December 21, 2016, 03:56:20 PM »
I think pitch rate was high enough. 15 liters, shaken-not-stirred 750 cc pitched at high kraeusen.

I made the Rochefort 4 once before, fermented at 18C and submitted it to a competition. The judge said he tasted isoamyl acetate, which should not be prominent in Rochefort, so  this time I lowered the temp a bit.

I also ferment in a keg. That doesn't seem to be ideal for esters.

If you haven't read it before, there is some interesting information on ester formation here:

All Grain Brewing / Re: Introduction to Low Oxygen Brewing
« on: December 19, 2016, 07:19:44 PM »
I enjoy the brulosophy experiments, but I find at times the experiment designs are lacking.
Well, judging by the fact that Marshall doesn't post here anymore, I kinda think he got that impression from a lot of people.

They often have discussions with posters regarding the design of a particular experiment on Reddit.  The Monday experiment results posts on r/homebrewing often have at least 100 comments. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Newbie here. Water question.
« on: December 18, 2016, 09:55:19 PM »
I run this unit, with the DI disconnected.

I could see myself in the market for something like that.  I'm spending $8-$10 a batch on distilled water as it is.  It would also be useful for topping off the aquarium I guess.

The Pub / Re: Howdy
« on: December 17, 2016, 04:14:17 PM »
Echoing all sentiments above

All Grain Brewing / Re: starting all grain brewing
« on: December 17, 2016, 03:48:54 PM »
Here's what it contains: Fermenter’s Favorites® Hot Liquor Tank
Fermenter’s Favorites® Mash/Lauter Tun
Titan 11.5" Stainless Steel False Bottom
Bronze Ball Valve Cooler Kit with Barbed Hose Fittings (QTY: 2)
Siphon Sprayer
Thermoplastic Tubing 3/8” ID
Hi-Temp Clear Vinyl Tubing 3/8” ID
Teflon Tape
Worm Clamps (x2)
 I was wondering if there would be a significant problem because of the difference in head space between the 7 gallon cooler and 10 gallon cooler, as far as keeping a constant temperatures? Maybe I'm overthinking this, I just want to make sure I get the right equipment for what I want to do. Thanks for any help!

That's the Northern Brewer starter kit right?

It's set up for fly sparging (which is totally fine), but you might want to consider batch sparging at first as it's easier and requires less equipment.

If I were you, I would skip the kit and put together my own mashtun with either a braided hose or one of these:

That will save you quite a bit of money.  And if you decide that you want to switch to fly sparging later on, you can just buy a false bottom (and if necessary a separate insulated hot liquor tank), and you'll be ready to rock.

All Grain Brewing / Re: First Low Oxygen Brew
« on: December 17, 2016, 03:27:29 PM »
So it topped out at 17 psi.  I’m not sure if the yeast stopped working or if that’s just as much head space pressure as you get priming with 4 oz. of cane sugar at 68 degrees. 

Anyway, it’s been cold conditioning for 5 days and my initial impressions are below.
The beer has a rounder, fuller flavor than usual.

There is a particular flavor I get from certain hops like EKG, SG and Saaz.  It’s hard for me to describe, but I like it a lot, and it’s the reason why I brew a lot of pale Belgian style beers with these hops.  In this beer, it seems to be more pronounced than usual.  I also think it is apparent earlier than usual as it sometimes takes a few weeks of cold conditioning to develop.

Finally, there is a honey flavor present that I don’t usually get from this beer.  I don’t know if it’s due to unfermented priming sugar or some effect of low oxygen brewing on either the malt or the golden candi syrup I used.

Anyway, I’m taking this with a grain of salt as I didn’t do a side by side or blind triangle test.  It could all be due to the power of suggestion.

I kegged the second low oxygen batch (an APA with 1272) last night with 4.5 oz. of priming sugar. 

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Newbie here. Water question.
« on: December 16, 2016, 01:00:22 AM »
The Bru'n Water spreadsheet is pretty great once you know the mineral content of your starting water.

You can download it here:

Reading the water knowledge page is a good place to start.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: WY 1450 in an oatmeal stout
« on: December 15, 2016, 07:04:43 PM »
Cool.  I originally wanted to use an English strain, but I couldn't decide which one so I went with the 1450.

Hoping to get this brewed next weekend.

10 lbs. Maris Otter
1.5 lbs. toasted, flaked oats
.5 lbs. each of English dark crystal, roast barley, and pale chocolate malt

East Kent Goldings; 2 packs of 1450

Ingredients / Re: Brewtan B
« on: December 15, 2016, 05:18:47 PM »
How? Does it have ball lock connectors?

The liquid out tubing from the fermentor can be connected to a liquid keg disconnect using a barbed swivel nut. 

On the gas side, you have a few options, including connecting the keg gas out tubing to the hole in the lid using a stopper or attaching a keg gas post to a stopper.  You can do a closed loop transfer or you can use a bit of CO2 pressure to assist if you go the gas post route (which is what I've started doing).

See the pictures in link that The Beerery posted above or pictures of my set up in the link below.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottle Spunding Trappist Ales
« on: December 15, 2016, 06:11:45 AM »
This isn't hard and fast stuff but for me it's the only way. I brew 1.25 gallon batches so kegging is not my thing. Bottle spunding is the way, I just need to experiment with it.

How are you currently packaging your low O2 beers?

Yeast and Fermentation / WY 1450 in an oatmeal stout
« on: December 14, 2016, 11:04:00 PM »
Decent choice?

I don't have much experience with this strain.

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