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Messages - narcout

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391
I think that was the most entertaining interview to date. 

The craft brew revolution is drinking its own children.

392
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Water PH
« on: March 03, 2016, 01:36:25 PM »
I don't know if I'd say pH is inconsequential when steeping grains. 

For a nice primer on water, see the Water Knowledge page from Bru'n Water: https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/water-knowledge

393
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxygenation and Fermenter Head Space
« on: March 03, 2016, 10:31:58 AM »
Once you pitch your yeast, they take up any available oxygen in the wort (beer now I guess) pretty quickly.  Any additional O2 in the headspace that dissolves into the beer (if any) before it is displaced by CO2 from active fermentation will also be taken up by the yeast.  It's not going to cause you any problems.

Some small amount of O2 will probably make its way into your fermentor post fermentation, but I don't see how using a smaller fermentor would change that, and it's not an issue anyway.

394
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Oxygenation and Fermenter Head Space
« on: March 03, 2016, 10:02:56 AM »
In thinking about reducing oxygenation, I started thinking about my almost 8 gallon Speidel that normally is only filled with about 5.5-6 gallons of beer. Is this a potential issue during the ~2 weeks my wort/beer sits there?

Aren't you using an airlock that lets gas out but not in?

395
Regarding the olive oil experiment, did you guys specify that dry yeast should not be used?

397
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Winter Wyeast PC Strains
« on: March 02, 2016, 12:07:25 PM »
Summary: IMO, it's a great alternative yeast for brewing mostly neutral beers while still retaining the malt AND hops.  Not great for British-style beers. IMO.

Well, that's not really what I was hoping to hear.  I'm still planning on using it in my Golden Promise ale; it just got pushed because I fractured my foot and have been on crutches the past few weeks.

398
Its been 4 years since ive used dry yeast. Its kind of interesting that a smack pack in 1L of oxygenated starter, pitched to 6 gallons of oxygenated wort just 8 hrs later, will be chugging along so much faster than a pack of dry yeast in 2.5 gallons of oxygenated wort.

My experience with US-05 is that it has a pretty decent lag time even if rehydrated.  It doesn't seem to have a negative impact on the beer though.

399
The Pub / Re: Coors being sued for not brewing all beer in CO
« on: February 29, 2016, 11:00:18 AM »
I really enjoyed touring the Coors brewery - bought some sweet Coors Light sweatbands.

400
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Kegging with less oxygen
« on: February 27, 2016, 08:40:02 AM »
I ferment 3-gallon batches in 5-gallon food-grade buckets.

I know it doesn't help for this batch, but have you considered fermenting in 5 gallon corny kegs?  Then you could do closed transfers under pressure to your serving keg.

401
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: yeast starter from dry yeast
« on: February 25, 2016, 04:11:04 PM »
Below Dr. Clayton Clone states that Lallemand dry yeast has sufficient lipids for 3 to 4 growth cycles.  In theory, if you require more cells than that, you should either pitch more than one packet or add additional oxygen at some point in the fermentation (that is also touched on in the below).

http://www.lallemandyeast.com/articles/crabtree-effect-and-overflow-metabolism

To paraphrase SC again, the osmotic pressure placed on yeast cells in a high gravity wort is another reason to pitch more cells when brewing high gravity beers.  See reply #46 in this thread:  https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=24439.msg311523#msg311523

Here's some more info from Dr. Clone in response to a question concerning rehydrating but which also seems applicable to the question of making starters with dry yeast:

https://koehlerbeer.wordpress.com/2008/06/07/rehydrating-dry-yeast-with-dr-clayton-cone/

"We recommend that the rehydrated yeast be added to the wort within 30 minutes. We have built into each cell a large amount of glycogen and trehalose that give the yeast a burst of energy to kick off the growth cycle when it is in the wort. It is quickly used up if the yeast is rehydrated for more than 30 minutes. There is no damage done here if it is not immediatly add to the wort. You just do not get the added benefit of that sudden burst of energy."


403
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: yeast starter from dry yeast
« on: February 24, 2016, 06:41:42 PM »
In theory, there isn’t much point in making a starter with dry yeast for the reasons explained above: you already have a large cell count of yeast with healthy UFA and ergosterol reserves that require little or no additional oxygen on the initial pitch.

With liquid yeast, you are generally starting with a lower cell count and the cells do not have the same levels of UFA and ergosterol due to the method of propagation.  You can increase the amount of cells you are pitching by using a starter (though I don’t think you are going to see much growth pitching a full smack pack into a half liter starter). 

For some interesting information on growth, check out this blog post: http://www.experimentalbrew.com/blogs/saccharomyces/yeast-cultures-are-nuclear-weapons

See also reply #56 in the following thread: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=24460.msg312443#msg312443

Then you have the choice of pitching the starter at high krausen (when UFA and ergosterol reserves are supposedly higher) or waiting until the starter ferments out, decanting, and pitching just the slurry (when reserves are supposedly lower). 

There has been a ton of discussion on these topics here recently, though perhaps not much consensus.  A good chunk of it was posted by user S. Cerevisiae.  If you search this forum for his posts using key words like “ergosterol,” “maximum cell density,” or "morphological changes" you will find a lot of information.

As an example, see reply #48 in the following: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=24041.msg306967#msg306967

See also reply #5 in this thread: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=25207.msg323689#msg323689


404
Beer Recipes / Re: My 1st IPA & Pale Ale and How do you 1st wort hop
« on: February 24, 2016, 02:11:16 PM »
You might consider bumping the gravity up on the rye IPA.

405
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: yeast starter from dry yeast
« on: February 24, 2016, 12:00:52 PM »
I just want to know that if you make a starter from dry yeast, you weaken it considerably... Obviously the proof would require an experiment that I'm not willing to do personally ;)

The nice thing about dry yeast is that (paraphrasing from S. Cerevisiae and the Lallemand website) it is propagated in a manner that results in high levels of ergosterol and UFA reserves.  As such, you do not really need to aerate/oxygenate your wort on an initial pitch.  The other nice thing is that there are a lot of cells in each packet.

I think making a starter with dry yeast is less about weakening the yeast and more about just not being necessary, since you already have a good amount of fully charged cells.

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