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Messages - narcout

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Kegging and Bottling / Re: Spartanburg SC Beer-Out Plastic Piece
« on: July 23, 2013, 08:37:16 PM »
Is this what you are talking about?

If so, be aware that they come in two different sizes (one is a bit longer than the other, and I believe it can be sanded down successfully if necessary).  My own experience is that the longer keg posts which require the longer spacers can be swapped out for the shorter "Type C" keg posts (available from Northern Brewer, etc.) which take the shorter spacers.

See also:

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Aeration Equipment Question
« on: July 13, 2013, 01:01:51 PM »
I've been using this setup for a couple of years and have been really happy with it.

I can oxygenate around 20 five gallon batches with one of the larger disposable oxygen bottles, which is about a full year's worth of brewing for me.

The only thing you won't get in this setup is a flow meter, but I believe you can add one if you want (I personally don't see the need).

I also use this in-line HEPA filter, though it is likely unneccessary.

Equipment and Software / Re: Buidling a Cooler Mash Tun...PLEASE HELP
« on: June 08, 2013, 02:27:39 PM »
It sounds like the hole for the drain spout in your cooler is larger than the one used in the video.  The mini keg bung should fit pretty snugly on its own without the sealant. 

If it is indeed too big for the mini keg bung, you could use a cooler bulkhead fitting that you could attach a ball valve to. Something like this:

I'd much rather use one of these bulkheads than any amount of adhesive or sealer.

I've never had even the smallest leak.

All Grain Brewing / Re: barley crusher gap settings ?
« on: June 08, 2013, 02:22:09 PM »
I'm hitting 80% efficiency at the factory setting with a 10 lb. grain bill.  Efficiency drops to the low 70s when the grain bill gets up to around 15 lbs. or so.

I don't really see the point in tightening the gap any further. 

While I don't think there's any harm in it, you don't need to wait 20-30 minutes into the mash.  If you scroll over cell G27 on tab 4 of Brun Water, it actually says the mash pH tends to rise a bit as the duration increases and that the estimate given is for the early stage of mashing.

Also, there is no need to let the sample cool to room temperature.  The stips will give you the same reading regardless of whether you let the sample cool or not (try it and see; I just dip mine directly into the mash).  I'm not sure what the explanation for that is, maybe they cool to room temp on their own pretty quickly after they are dipped.

Colorphast strips to tend to read about 0.3 too low.  Are you reading them in natural light?  I've found that indoor lighting can throw the colors off quite a bit.

I've compared them against a pH meter several times and have always found them to be pretty accurate (to the point where I rarely bother with the meter anymore).

Equipment and Software / Re: Cleaning keg exteriors
« on: May 24, 2013, 01:19:43 PM »
I figured Bar Keepers Friend should be good for this.

That's always worked well for me.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: That German lager flavor
« on: May 24, 2013, 01:10:57 PM »
Anyone brewing any good lagers lately?

I tapped a keg of Munich Dunkel last night that I'm pretty happy with.  I don't brew much lager, but this beer has me reconsidering that approach.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Bottling from a keg
« on: May 05, 2013, 06:01:26 PM »
Why not just chill the keg down to about 33-35 and fill with a picnic tap with a tube to reach the bottom of the bottle. Or just a tube off the kegerator tap?

Either of those methods can work well.  You'll want to turn off the gas to the keg and bleed most of the pressure off first. 

I do think it's worth flushing the bottles with CO2 (which you can do just fine without a counter pressure filler).

I made a run to the LHBS after work so I can brew an oatmeal stout tomorrow night.  Last night I kegged a dunkel which I also have high hopes for.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Second thoughts on brewing
« on: April 20, 2013, 04:36:09 PM »
I ordered the below kit with the glass carboys. I also ordered a case of 22 oz. bottles.

That's the same kit I started brewing with 8 years ago in an apartment in Nashville - no burner, no chiller, made excellent beer.

The groundwater here in LA is pretty warm most of the year, but a simple immersion chiller does the job just fine.  An ice bath in the kitchen sink will serve you well for the time being.

I would definitely recommend getting a $7 rubbermade storage bin and using it to keep your fermentor cool though.  Just fill it with water and change out frozen two liter bottles (or refreezable ice packs) twice a day. 

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Wyeast 2352 Munich Lager II
« on: April 07, 2013, 06:53:42 PM »
Well, I brewed my Munich Dunkel last night.  According to Wyeast, the minimum fermenting temperature for this yeast is 52 degrees. 

I read some posts on another forum that made it sound like running this strain lower than the recommended minimum was a bad idea, so I pitched at 47 and set the controller to 53.

We'll see how it turns out...

I'm hoping to brew a Munich Dunkel on Saturday - got the starter on the stirplate now. 

I don't brew a lot of lagers so I'm looking forward to it.

Yeast and Fermentation / Wyeast 2352 Munich Lager II
« on: March 25, 2013, 07:21:48 PM »
Anybody have experience with this yeast?

I'm going to try it in a Munich Dunkel in a few weeks.

I was attracted by the description which promises low sulphur and diacetyl.

The Pub / Re: Cats are not Hop Heads.
« on: March 24, 2013, 01:08:24 PM »
Does anyone else know any random facts about pets and brewing?

Hops are poisonous to dogs.  I'm not sure about cats though.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: BRY-97 First Impression
« on: March 24, 2013, 12:58:59 PM »
I take it this strain is more flocculant than US-05?

I will definitely give it a shot.

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