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Messages - narcout

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Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast harvest
« on: November 22, 2015, 07:46:09 PM »
That crop will work just fine.

Cool, thanks for taking a look.

Were you just looking for an excuse to show off your reading material? ;)

Wow, good catch.  Being honest though, my wife is the one who reads the New Yorker.  I don't seem to have the patience for it.

My confusion comes in where my recipe guide says "after all apparent bubbling has stopped for approximately 3 days, and if the specific gravity is where it needs to be (1.062 is what my guide tells me) then the beer is finished fermenting".

If your kit references a gravity of 1.062, that is the original gravity before fermentation, not the final gravity post-fermentation.  The final gravity depends on a lot of different factors (yeast strain, fermentation temperature, mash temp (or extract variety if you are brewing extract), etc.).  Assuming you are brewing with extract, it's likely to be somewhere in the mid teens.

You want to leave your beer in primary until it is finished fermenting (specific gravity is no longer dropping) and the yeast have had a few extra days to clean up some of the less desirable compounds created during fermentation. 

This brewer told me that I needed to heat the beer up (only by 3-4 degrees in F) for 24-48 hours, which he said would kill off some impurities that would cause skunkiness and off flavoring, then transfer to a secondary fermenter and give that fermenter two whole weeks before bottling.

It is not uncommon for brewers to let the fermentation temperature rise a few degrees near the end of fermentation to help ensure that the yeast stays active, finishes consuming the fermentable sugars, and cleans up some of the compounds I referenced above.  I think this is likely what your friend was referring to.  Skunkiness is caused by an interaction between ultraviolet light and compounds in the beer contributed by the hops.  It has nothing to do with warming the beer up near the end of fermentation.

You mention that the beer has only been fermenting for 4 days.  Personally, I would leave it alone for at least two weeks from brew day.  At that point, you can check the gravity and see where it's at.  You could then wait another few days and check the gravity again to be sure fermentation is finished. 

Once fermentation is complete and the yeast has had some time clean up, you have a few choices.  You can leave the beer alone for a bit and wait for yeast and other particulate to drop out of suspension (which will help keep this material out of the bottles), you can transfer to a secondary vessel and let it clarify there, or you can go ahead and package.  If the beer looks fairly clear and you are careful when siphoning to the bottling bucket, I would go ahead and package.

Are you planning on dry hopping this beer?  Also, what type of yeast did you use, how much did you pitch, and at what temperature is the beer currently fermenting?

Yeast and Fermentation / Yeast harvest
« on: November 22, 2015, 02:31:18 PM »
I don't typically re-use yeast, but I'm interested in starting.

How does 34/70 look to you all?

My transfer process doesn't leave behind much beer in the primary.  I used a sanitized ladle to scoop this out of the cone (I currently ferment in one of these:

I'm considering pitching some of it into a marzen in a few weeks.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: November 20, 2015, 12:45:15 PM »
How are you making it 'black'? In the mash, sparge, cold steeping? There is a local one here that is great and I have really wanted to brew one.

I'm going to add one pound of Dehusked Carafa II during the batch sparge.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: November 19, 2015, 05:40:28 PM »
I'll be brewing a black saison tomorrow night.  The plan is to age half of it on some cherry puree.  I've never used fruit in a beer before, but I was inspired by something I tried at the NHC.

If it turns out well, it might be a good candidate for souring (hoping to get some sours going next year).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Playing around with final beer pH
« on: November 19, 2015, 10:15:42 AM »
I wonder if Founders actually adjusts pH in the kettle on this beer or if the acidity of the dark grains gets it there ? Interesting.

The yeast probably drops it quite a bit during fermentation.

Equipment and Software / Re: Milwaukee pH meter drift issues
« on: November 18, 2015, 11:23:31 AM »
With my MW101 (which I believe uses the same probe as the MW102), I noticed that the pH reading would slowly drift upward over the course of 5 minutes or so, and it never really seemed to stabilize.

I purchased a new probe, and it solved the issue - though I still find that I need to do a bit of stirring to get a good reading.

I've never let it sit for a full hour though to see what would happen. 

As I understand it, the probe works through ion exchange.  Is it possible that after an hour in water the solution is actually leeching stuff from the probe?

I think I remember reading that, but I cannot remember where.  Maybe it was a post on this forum.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: New MoreBeer Torpedo Keg Dimensions
« on: November 17, 2015, 10:04:51 AM »
Any idea where these are manufactured?

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Carbing up a 9.5% IBA
« on: November 16, 2015, 04:24:57 PM »
How did you calculate 3 oz. of priming sugar to carbonate 6.1 gallons of beer to 2 volumes of CO2?  That seems low.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: oxygen cleaners
« on: November 16, 2015, 10:31:42 AM »
I was looking at it for soaking my BK, so I wouldn't be touching the stuff.

Have you ever tried Barkeeper's Friend?  I cleaned my boil kettle with it yesterday, and it seriously looks brand new.  I wish I had taken before and after pictures.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: First yeast starter! Any help appreciated!
« on: November 15, 2015, 05:21:57 PM »
You will get varying opinions on this, but for high gravity beers like what you are proposing, I like to pitch close to the .75 million cells per milliliter per degree Plato metric.  That would put you in the vicinity of 200 billion cells for your 3 gallon batch.

I tend to make my starters around 1.040.  For a one liter starter, that would require 3.8 oz. of DME.

You could pitch the entire starter at high krausen; try to crash the starter at high krausen, wait for the yeast to sediment, decant, and pitch just the slurry; or wait until the starter has fermented out, crash, decant, and pitch just the slurry.  This is is also something you will get varying opinions about; you're going to have to make your own decision.

If you choose to decant, you will be able to see the liquid clear as the yeast begins to fall out of suspension.  I try to give the yeast two days to sediment, but I've decanted and pitched after 24 hours with good results.   

Yes, you can grow more yeast if you make a larger starter (and there is sufficient oxygen and nutrients).

I think it is a good idea to use yeast nutrient in starters. 

I don't know the answer to your question about chloramines as I typically decant my starters and don't worry about treating them.

Do you have a means of oxygenating or aerating your starter?  If so, you should use it.  If not, you can try the method of aerating by shaking (search "shaken not stirred" on this forum), but you'll want more headspace than you'll get with your 2 liter flask (a gallon glass jug would be better, and you can probably get one for a few bucks at the grocery store). 

You are also going to want to aerate or oxygenate your wort prior to (or just after) pitching the yeast.

All Things Food / Breakfast Pizza
« on: November 15, 2015, 02:00:02 PM »
Saute veggies in olive oil with garlic and onions, add 5 or 6 beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper (can also add some grated cheese if you want), leave over medium heat on stovetop until cooked about 3/4 of the way through, transfer pan to oven and finish under the broiler (only takes another minute or two), slide onto cutting board and slice up like a pizza

The below is just spinach and zucchini, but I like to add mushrooms and tomatoes if we have them.  I think I learned this from watching the Food Network.

Commercial Beer Reviews / Re: Sour Beer Tastings
« on: November 15, 2015, 12:56:43 PM »
Lindemans - Framboise 11.14.15

Description: lambic with raspberry juice and “natural flavor from raspberries”; 2.5% abv

Appearance: hazy, deep red with a brown tint, effervescent, minimal head

Aroma: sweet and lightly tart; fresh berries (mostly raspberry), light lemon?

Taste: moderate sourness/tartness, no funk, fruit juice, raspberry (with a candy aspect) and maybe apple (light lemon?), finish is sweet and has an artificial aspect to it, no hop character or bitterness
Impression: this is too sweet and has an artificial aspect I don’t love; a small serving would be nice with a dessert

Beer Recipes / Re: Chasing the perfect Munich Helles
« on: November 13, 2015, 10:42:55 AM »
At this point, if you would like I will post my last brew details, if you would like a glimpse of what I am talking about.

That would be cool.

There's nothing I'd love to do more than sit down with you guys and taste some German beers.

Come to the NHC next summer.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Banana ester in my lager after diacetyl rest
« on: November 13, 2015, 10:30:16 AM »
Just want to thanks the folks who responded to my questions. After reading all the responses I think I will stick with Ales for a while before trying another lager. I'm trying to keep life simple. I'm thinking about using a clean tasting ale yeast (like 1056) and making ales with hops typically used in lager, and the doing extended cold conditioning in the bottle. Just play around with it and see what happens.

I hope you will post an update once the beer is packaged and ready to drink. 

I'm curious to hear whether you even end up with any off flavors.

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