Just take Uber; it is usually way less expensive than a cab and pretty fast (even in Los Angeles).
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Yeah I've added all my seminars and stuff to the agenda in it... Worked really well for them (though I did notice 1 seminar missing from it).
I am thinking 1214 or 3522.
*i should probably cut my gas line back as well. No need to run 3 feet IMO.
Thinking of the beer length equation, is that reliable most of the time? I wanted to ask before I cut off a foot or two of beer line.
I already have just about every book from Brewers Publications outside of Malt, but I do not intend to buy that.
Our beer appears to still be fermenting and we are debating on whether or not to transfer to secondary now or wait longer until it completely settles.
Any take on this...how to replicate a step mash regimen with a single temperature infusion mash?
Brewed for years, stopped for about five. Made it a priority a week ago, visited Austin Homebrew Supply to buy some piece parts. I walked out with a new FastFerment unit. A AHS German Wheat recipe kit is on day 4. Fermentation slowed then stopped yesterday. Saturday will be the removal of the ball, removal of the trub. I soda keg so another week to keg.
So far I'm loving the FastFerment. Saw a comment about oxidation in reattaching the ball for stage 2.
Most recipes in the book list a series of step mashes and temperatures. How can I deduce a good temperature to mash at in these cases to closely replicate the recipe utilizing batch sparging?
Secondly, some recipes call for no sparge. Would I ever NOT sparge during batch sparging?
What are the effects of 10% phosphoric acid in RO water?
Secondly, normally I'll add CaCl2 into the strike and sparge water to dissolve. Gordon Strong mentions to add the X amount of CaCl2 "to the mash". Is he referring to just dumping the dry salts into the mash and stirring them up at that point?