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Messages - narcout

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The Pub / Re: Good deal on Zymatic
« on: May 02, 2017, 10:26:26 AM »
I fill in the grist and hops in the basic, tell it I'm doing the high efficiency multi step and switch to advanced. 

Can you set up any mash schedule you want or is it a choice between a single temp. or the high efficiency multi step (which per the manual looks like it is a set program that can't be altered)?

The Pub / Re: Good deal on Zymatic
« on: May 02, 2017, 09:02:43 AM »
Do you guys just ferment in the corny keg with all the trub and break material or do you rack to a different fermentor?

When calculating volumes, what do you estimate for grain absorption and boil off?

If I want to end up with 2.75 or 3 gallons of wort so that I can transfer a full 2.5 gallons of clear wort to a different fermentor (leaving some trub behind), is that possible or are you truly limited to 2.5 gallons of post-boil wort?

What is the point of the spindle on the top with the felt washer you are supposed to add anti-foam to?  Does the wort actually get foamy enough to fill the whole keg and bubble up into that thing?

Sorry for all the questions.  I've got 10 days to decide if I want to cancel my pledge or not. 

I'd recommend figuring out how to use the 'advaced" software now because that was the hardest thing for me. It's actually very simple bu since you can access the manual and the recipe software on line it makes sense to go ahead and have it figured out  before the machine arrives.

I can't figure out how to access it, even though I set up an account.  I wonder if you need to actually register the unit first.

The Pub / Re: Good deal on Zymatic
« on: April 30, 2017, 02:40:27 PM »
I ordered the Zymatic. $1379 shipped with full warranty and all the bells and whistles seems like a deal that won't come around again soon.

Agreed.  I just ordered one as well.

After 12 years of brewing, I honestly just don't want to spend 6 hours making wort anymore.  I'm really sick of it.

I mostly brew Belgian ales so using 9 lbs. of grain and 1 lb. of sugar, it looks like I can get 4.75 gallons of 1.057 wort from a brew session, which is good enough for me.

I may try to make some low oxygen modifications, but I get the feeling I'll have to bust out my full rig for proper low O2 brewing.  I'm ok with that though. 

That was really interesting.  I may have to pick up a copy of the book.

Looking forward to hearing Peter speak at HBC...

I don't, but the reports of the thin and bubbled glass sound awful.  Out of the 92 reviews, I counted 9 breakages.

Think of how many stitches you are going to need if it breaks when you are holding it.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Closed vs under pressure transfer
« on: April 24, 2017, 04:06:21 PM »
Out of curiosity, what made you decide to go back to transferring under pressure - transfer time?

There would be the occasional clog, and I thought racking under a bit of pressure would help.  Turns out I was using a bad liquid QD (manufacturing defect resulting in low flow).

It would probably work fine now that I have a new QD, but I've stuck with racking under pressure, probably just out of habit.   

I've also started using my 10 gallon corny keg fermentor again, which requires pressure.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Closed vs under pressure transfer
« on: April 24, 2017, 03:29:58 PM »
I presume flow will start as soon as you hook up the QD to the gas in post (which is attached at the other end to the top of the fermenter)?

It's been a while since I've done it (having switched back to transferring under pressure), but I think I hooked up the gas tubing first, then the liquid tubing, then just opened up the ball valve to start the flow.

Are you able to cold crash your Brewbucket under CO2 pressure with that ball-lock adapter installed?

Yes.  In my experience the Brewbucket will hold 3-4 PSI before gas starts leaking out under the lid.  It's also been my experience that it can hold a vacuum.  When I cold crash, I pump a few PSI of CO2 into it first, then crash.  Before you rack, you need to remember to pump more CO2 in to break the vacuum, otherwise you'll suck in a bunch of air when you open the ball valve.

This is how I attached the gas post (though I think some of the parts links are no longer valid):

I've been told by another Brewbucket user that this part also fits:

Though you can't swap between that and a regular airlock or blowoff tube without removing the lid like you can with the stopper assembly.  You'd attach a gas disconnect with some tubing that runs into a jar of sanitizer.  My only concern with that would be the potential for clogging if you had a lot of blowoff.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Belgian Dark Strong / Quad Stalling?
« on: April 24, 2017, 12:29:14 PM »
My yeast was from a starter that I started with two packs of 3787 and 3 quarts of starter wort.  Then I crashed, decanted, and added three more quarts of wort.  Based on standard calculations I should have had pitched enough yeast.

Maximum cell density is around 200 billion cells per liter.  Once you hit that, you aren't going to get any more growth. 

So pitching slurry from a 3 liter starter into a second 3 liter starter is only going to net you more cells to the extent you didn't hit the maximum density in the first starter. 

I'm not saying that's your issue, just pointing it out for future reference.

Equipment and Software / Re: pH Meter
« on: April 22, 2017, 07:41:14 PM »
Happy enough with my Extech 110.

Me too.  I like it better than my MW101.

Holding it while the reading stabilizes is the pits.

Why do you have to hold it up?  I just let it rest against the side of the test jar.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Closed vs under pressure transfer
« on: April 22, 2017, 05:43:51 PM »
I've always thought of a closed transfer as being where the CO2 in the purged keg flows back into the fermentor.

As opposed to a transfer under pressure, where additional CO2 is being pumped into the fermentor to push beer into the serving keg where it is then vented

I still enjoy Coopers Sparkling Ale!

I have good memories of that beer.  I've brewed a few versions of Australian sparking ale, but it's been a long time since I've had the real thing to compare it to.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Metabisulfite (sulfur dioxide) in beer brewing
« on: April 14, 2017, 08:27:01 PM »
The fact that some people are having issues with sulfur and others aren't, even when both parties are using the same ingredients, makes me think the yeast choice + Sulfate thing could have some credibility.

SMB doesn't really add much sulfate though, and I've pushed sulfate over 200 ppm on several beers with no issues (though all of those beers were brewed with US-05, 1056 or 1272).

Do yeast actually break down sulfate to hydrogen sulfide?  Kunze says "sulphate is assimilated from the wort and converted to sulphite, which the yeast cell uses up itself."  After most of the nutrients are used up and yeast growth is inhibited,  the assimilation continues and excess sulphite is excreted from the cell (paraphrasing here).   Though maybe sulphite is intermediate to hydrogen sulfide?  I really don't know.

All Grain Brewing / Re: Metabisulfite (sulfur dioxide) in beer brewing
« on: April 14, 2017, 07:38:41 PM »
Doesn't it seem more likely that sulphur issues are being caused by sulphur dioxide reducing to hydrogen sulfide as opposed to excess sulfate?

Someone I know of is convinced the wet milling over 1% is causing the efficiency hit and is currently investigating.

I think that is worth checking out.

Of the five, no-sparge, low-oxygen batches I have brewed, I got 73% efficiency on all but one (which was 63%). 

One of the differences with the low efficiency batch was that I over-conditioned the malt, and the crush was noticeably different. 

If there's no sulfite present when the yeast is pitched, there's nothing for them to react with.

I don't think this is actually the case.

So 6 out of 7 trials failed to reach significance.  That doesn't really surprise me given my own experiences with Brewtan B on its own.

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