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Messages - narcout

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The Pub / Re: Ferment chamber temp controller
« on: January 02, 2016, 08:48:39 PM »
I have both a Johnson A419 and an Auber TD100.

I much prefer the Auber.  Besides being able to control both heating and cooling, you can adjust the differential by a tenth of a degree.  With the Johnson, the smallest differential you can set is 1 degree. 

The Auber also reads in tenths of a degree, while the Johnson reads in whole degrees, and the display is larger and brighter.

I think you will be happier with the Auber; it has more and better features for the same price as the Johnson controller.

Tape one of these guys, or something similar, to the inside of your fermentation freezer, and you will be all set:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: January 01, 2016, 07:43:23 PM »
Below is my first attempt at a German Pilsner.  It took about 5 weeks to drop clear, but I used no finings or filtration other than whirlfloc in the boil.

The Pub / Re: Cheers to you and Beer in 2015
« on: January 01, 2016, 07:36:38 PM »
Cheers.  I'm just so happy that 2015 is over.

I never realized the same brewery put out Old Rasputin, Brother Thelonious, Red Seal Ale, Pranqster, and Le Merle. 

I wonder what yeast they use for Brother Thelonious; that is one of my favorite beers.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Keg PSI
« on: December 31, 2015, 01:01:46 PM »
Thanks. Thats close, but just a gage on a CO2 in disconnect is what I think I'm after. It will basically be like a tire pressure gage but fits the CO2 In post. I can snap it on, read pressure,  snap it off, move on to next keg.

I've seen that in some homebrew catalog or other, but I cannot remember which one.  Somebody definitely sells it though.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Quick tips
« on: December 31, 2015, 12:06:36 PM »
If using hop bags, clipping the drawstrings to the rim of the kettle makes for easy removal (easier than fishing them out of the kettle with a spoon).

Running wort through a hop bag or metal screen filter on its way from mash tun to kettle will catch a fair amount of fine grain particulate that vorlaufing didn't remove.

Using a metal ruler to take measurements while filling your boil kettle up with one or two quarts of water at a time, you can plot the points and solve for the equation which allows you to input the height in inches of your wort and returns the volume (easy way to measure pre and post boil wort volume if your kettle isn't graduated).

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Upcoming Rube Goldberg Brewday
« on: December 31, 2015, 11:05:57 AM »
Jim, I doubt the 2F difference in fermentation temperature is going to make a difference in the fruity ester. Especially when most yeasts' range is in the mid 50's at the top end. But, it doesn't hurt to lower it by a couple degrees. Who knows, maybe it'll make all the difference. Look forward to reading the results.
Yup, when you start getting close the changes get really small. If I'm able to add one point to each aspect it will be a 42-43 beer. To take it from that to 45-46 will be even more subtle

The thing that makes it really difficult is the subjectivity in judging. I've had the exact same beer, from the exact same batch score a 41 in one competition and a 33 in another.  Who was correct? 

I suppose it would be easier if you had the same people judging each iteration.

Kegging and Bottling / Re: Draft Brewer keg system
« on: December 30, 2015, 12:02:02 PM »
Nothing against Northern Brewer (I order equipment and ingredients from them regularly), but I would skip that setup and piece together your own.

Taprite Dual Gauge Regulator: $65

There are a lot of options for both new and used kegs.  Here is one of them - 5 gallon Torpedo keg: $90

Then you need one gas and one liquid disconnect ($6 each).  I like the flared versions opposed to the barbed versions:

You will also need gas and beverage tubing.  I don't know what your setup is like, but I would get at least 5 feet of gas tubing.  I would also get about 10 feet of 3/16 inch beverage tubing.  Read up on how to balance a draft system to prevent foaming (it isn't very complicated and there are a lot of resources on the web; use more beverage tubing than you think you need, it usually doesn't harm anything and you can always cut it shorter if you want).

To connect tubing to flared disconnects you need a barbed swivel nut, like this:

Then you use a hose clamp to secure the tubing to the barbed swivel nut.  You can use the regular worm gear style clamps, but I much prefer stepless ear clamps for permanent (or at least semi-permanent) connections. 

They look like this:

They do require a special clamper.  You can often find them on Ebay or other on-line shops for less than half of what homebrew shops sell them for.  This is what it looks like:

Don't forget extra clamps to secure the gas tubing to the regulator and to secure the beverage tubing to your faucet.

I'm assuming you are planning to start out with a picnic faucet:

Also, for future reference, for any metal to metal connections you want to use a flared washer, like this:

You do not need flared washers for the connections to the disconnects, as the disconnects already have a built-in washer.

I think that puts you somewhere around $180 (assuming worm gear clamps instead of the stepless ones) plus another $15-$20 for tubing.  That doesn't include shipping, though I think you can get free shipping from MoreBeer and NB has $7.99 flat rate shipping for a lot of items.

For a CO2 tank, I would call you local Airgas distributor and ask them how much to get in the program for a 5 or 10 lb. tank and then shop around on-line to see which is less expensive.

It's also a good idea to have a little keg lube on hand:

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: What's Brewing this Weekend? 01/18/2014
« on: December 29, 2015, 12:07:43 PM »
Munich Dunkel on Saturday night with Wyeast Munich Lager II

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Simplest Yeast Storage Procedure
« on: December 26, 2015, 08:01:29 AM »
I use plastic lids

I was going to buy some of those last week and drill them to accept an airlock, but then I found lids that already had the necessary hole.

Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Yeast Nutrient
« on: December 24, 2015, 10:25:48 AM »
I came across the thread below awhile ago where someone stated they contacted Wyeast about the composition of their nutrient blend:

Per 1/2 teaspoon in 5 gallons:

Calcium 0.696 ppb
Magnesium 0.928 ppm
Sulfate 13.920 ppm
Zinc 0.635 ppm
Manganese 0.567 ppm
Thiamine 0.241 ppm

Further down in the thread (post #6), someone listed the minerals they found when analyzing a sample of Wyeast nutrient in an X-ray diffractometer.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: composition of 5.2 ph Stabilizer?
« on: December 23, 2015, 10:29:51 AM »
I've wondered in anyone has more info on it though.

Kaiser made a solution and sent it to Ward Labs for an analysis.

General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rubbing Alcohol Off Flavor
« on: December 23, 2015, 10:21:17 AM »
On a related note...  My oxygen stone is permanently affixed to the end of a stainless steel tube close to 3 feet long.  I'm thinking the only way to sanitize it is to bake it in the oven.  Anyone know what temperature and for how long?

I have the same one, and I boil it.

The Pub / Re: Grocery Store Beer
« on: December 22, 2015, 05:18:16 PM »
Does the price say $16.00?

Other Fermentables / Re: Krausen and Cider
« on: December 22, 2015, 10:11:03 AM »

I'm fermenting in a corny keg, but there is definitely CO2 coming out of solution.  I just thought it was weird that there was no krausen.

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