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Messages - narcout

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511
Where are you seeing that in the paper?

I don't like the taste of wort, but I'd be interested in trying it to see if I can tell a difference.

It's not in the paper, but it has been suggested on the German Brewing Forum by the folks who authored the paper. 

512
There is a mini-mash test outlined that involves a side by side mash of a few ounces of grain in mason jars.  The only additional equipment needed for that would be the sodium metabisulfite (assuming you have jars).  You could then do a blind triangle tasting of the worts.  It wouldn't require much time, is no one interested in even that?

513
To me, it reads more like a recipe with a detailed guide on how to brew it than a scientific paper that requires peer review.

It seems like people are bending over backwards to discredit processes they haven't actually tried.  What's the value in that?

If you don't want to try it, don't try it.  It's really not a big deal either way.


514
We are happy to announce the re-opening of the German Brewing Forum. We look forward to seeing you over there and viewing our latest announcement.

-B

That is a very interesting paper you all have put together; I really enjoyed reading it. 

515
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Red X
« on: April 25, 2016, 04:39:54 PM »
Well, I got it done.

From my previous experience with Red X, I knew it was more acidic than Bru'n Water would project so I targeted a mash pH in Bru'n Water of 5.54.  Actual mash pH was measured at 5.34.


516
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Rube Goldberg Part Two
« on: April 24, 2016, 10:04:33 PM »
Nice!

517
There are DO meters and digital refractometers available that are not outside the range of a homebrewer's budget.
Oh yeah?

Some of the folks on the German Brewing forum recommended this DO meter (it's $250):

http://www.tequipment.net/ExtechDO600.asp?Source=googleshopping&gclid=CLaKi7D6pcwCFYkCaQodV8cDpA

Morebeer sells a digital refractometer for $199, and there other models available I've seen people using.

I don't have personal experience with any of these, but I've been thinking about the DO meter.

518
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Pics of recent brews?
« on: April 23, 2016, 11:52:52 PM »
I was comparing my Belgian Strong Golden (on the right) against Pranqster (on the left).

They are actually pretty similar in flavor, but the Pranqster is more carbonated and more phenolic.  It's also a bit darker which makes me wonder if the grain bill is more than just pilsner malt and sugar. 

I plan to pick up some Duvel and Damnation for further comparison. 





519
There are DO meters and digital refractometers available that are not outside the range of a homebrewer's budget.

520
Sounds like a lot of fun

  • They exclusively use "the Andechs strain" from BSI and pitch a metric ton of it. 4 full 1/2BBL kegs, harvested off the cone of another fully fermented bier, is pitched into a 60BBL fermenter. We pitched a full 1/2BBL keg of 2nd generation yeast ("the best yeast generation") into the 15 BBL fermenter above.

Did they measure the DO?  If so, do you know what they target?

521
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Decoction help?
« on: April 22, 2016, 06:19:18 PM »
I think the "half the Pilsner" is what threw me. I thought that I would mash the entire grist, pull a portion after protein rest, boil it and return it to mash in order to push the temp to the 149. Can someone give me their step by step interpretation of these directions? Thanks!

I believe your interpretation of the directions is correct.  "Half the pilsner malt" means the portion of the mash you pull for decoction should include half of the grains being mashed (and you would be mashing the entire grist).

522
But I also believe there is something to gradually dropping the temp versus a straight-up crash. I don't know though...it's easy enough and I got the time.

My understanding of traditional lager brewing is that the beer is cooled slowly towards the end of fermentation to avoid shocking the yeast.  When there is still a small portion of fermentable extract remaining, the beer is racked into secondary, sealed with a pressure relief valve (to allow for natural carbonation), and slowly cooled further while the yeast continues working.

I guess cooling slowly is of less importance when one is allowing fermentation to complete during a higher temperature diacetyl rest and then racking to kegs for force carbing. 

Whether there are flavor differences between the two methods, I cannot say.  I would like to give the first method a try sometime though.

523
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Faucet Wrench
« on: April 21, 2016, 05:22:02 PM »
Yes to MFL connections and I do have Teflon tape and keg lube.

Cool.  Don't forget these guys for metal to metal connections, such as between the barbed swivel nuts at the end of your gas tubes and the shutoff valves on the CO2 distributor: http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/tubing/clamps-etc/flared-nylon-washer

You do not need them for connections to liquid or gas disconnects as they already have them built in.

524
Beer Recipes / Re: Belgian Red X
« on: April 21, 2016, 05:05:46 PM »
I decided on the 3522 and will be brewing Saturday night.

I picked up 10 lbs. of Red X which would get me 6 gallons at 1.051, but I might use a little less and make up the gravity with some cane sugar.

525
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Faucet Wrench
« on: April 21, 2016, 04:56:22 PM »
Any other specialized tools people get for their serving system I should be aware of.

If you don't already have them, 7/8" and 11/16" wrenches for keg posts (the kind with the 12 point ends).  Similar to the below, though the ones I bought at Home Depot were half the price.

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/15680582657907231482?lsf=seller:9119074,store:7489071587148312241&prds=oid:8980665856246268947&q=7/8+wrench&hl=en&ei=SwMZV7SRLYT3mAH0vJKQBA&lsft=sid:LIAxSgLx376649045x26603605325&lsft=gclid:CJSvpdyWoMwCFQkyaQod-esJOw

Also, if you are using stepless ear clamps (which I highly recommend), you'll need an ear clamper.  They are a bit pricey, but you can usually find a good deal on Ebay.

This kit actually isn't a bad deal unless you already have some of the tools: http://www.northernbrewer.com/draft-brewer-tool-kit

I assume you are setting everything up with MFL connections rather than using barbed fittings?

Teflon tape is also necessary, and keg lube is nice to have around.  I like this stuff as it is fairly easy to wash off: https://www.morebeer.com/products/cip-film-keg-lube-4-oz.html?site_id=7


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