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Messages - narcout

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511
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brew Weekend
« on: February 07, 2015, 01:55:08 AM »
Mission accomplished, and it's only 12:54 - so I might actually get a full 5 hours of sleep tonight.


512
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Brew Weekend
« on: February 06, 2015, 06:15:49 PM »
My long zen brew days are over.  Now that we have a baby, I can pretty much only brew Friday and Saturday evenings.

I'm brewing a Saison tonight - will get started as soon as I get home from work.  Hopefully, I'll get to bed around 1 as I'll be up again tomorrow morning at 6:30.

513
General Homebrew Discussion / Re: Mosher's new book
« on: February 06, 2015, 11:23:11 AM »
Man, I haven't even had a chance to start Malt yet.

At a quick glance at the preview, and from what I've heard in interviews, it sounds like it might be more like a bridge between How to Brew and Brewing Better Beer.

I'm surprised Brewing Better Beer isn't discussed more on this forum.  I thought that was a really good read.

514
The Pub / Re: Homebrewing in 2015
« on: February 05, 2015, 10:39:11 AM »
I like using Beersmith 2, though it definitely has some features that to me seem superflous (which is fine, I just don't use them - for example, I know to heat my strike water 13 degrees higher than my desired mash temp regardless of what the software says).  It is nice to have everything in an electronic format that I can backup and access from anywhere, the unit conversions and hydrometer adjust tools are useful, and it makes it very easy to compare specs among various batches.  Also, my handwriting is terrible.

That said, I think I could brew just fine without it.  I always brew 6 gallon batches, so it's just a matter of looking at past batches to determine how many pounds of grain it takes to hit a particular OG.  You don't even need to bother with efficiency calculations, just look at how many pounds of grain it took you last time you brewed a 1.054 OG APA.

I also think I've brewed enough to look at a particular hop bill and know whether it's going to result in a beer with high, medium or low bitterness, hop flavor, and/or aroma. 


515
Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Dust/ Sampling
« on: February 05, 2015, 10:04:16 AM »
Either way, is there any issues with breathing in grain dust? I thought I read something about this in the past.

You don't want to breathe in grain dust.  Get some disposable masks or tie a bandana over your mouth and nose.

516
Equipment and Software / Re: Oxygenation System
« on: February 03, 2015, 10:08:09 AM »
1. What size O2 tank is best for oxygenating?

2. Where is the best place to get a tank? Can the tanks be purchased or rented? Which is best?

If you don't want to buy a tank, you can use the red disposable oxygen tanks which most hardware stores carry.  One of the larger red tanks will last me more than a year.

5. Should I use a wand or tubing to connect the tank to the stone? I have heard that the wands are difficult to sanitize.

The wands really aren't difficult to sanitize.  You can spray sanitizer down the inside of the wand, and the stone on the end can be boiled.

517
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Microscope Purchase
« on: February 02, 2015, 02:31:15 PM »
What exactly are you guys using those for (other than counting yeast)?

518
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast RO water
« on: February 02, 2015, 12:48:49 PM »
Sadly, I have never been inside the Desert Inn.  If I ever have the chance to pass through YJ again, I will definitely check it out.

519
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Dry yeast RO water
« on: February 01, 2015, 11:33:49 AM »
I have fond childhood memories of passing through Yeehaw Junction on road trips with my dad.

520
Equipment and Software / Re: Grain Mill Break-In
« on: January 31, 2015, 08:26:45 PM »
I wonder if powering a mill with a drill causes more wear and tear on the rollers than hand cranking.

I've had a Barley Crusher for over 7 years, and I've probably put somewhere around 1,500 lbs. of grain through it (almost all of it with the hand crank). 

I've experienced a stuck roller once or twice, but it wasn't anything that a bit of cleaning didn't fix, and the knurl on the rollers is still very much intact.

The JSP and Monster Mills look pretty nice though.  If/when my Barley Crusher dies, I'll probably give one of those a try.   


521
Yeast and Fermentation / Re: Secondary Fermentation... or not?
« on: January 31, 2015, 08:13:08 PM »
I was reading the portion of Kaiser's website concerning fermenting lagers, and I came across the sentence below.

"Recent studies have shown that even active yeast may not be active enough to consume all the oxygen from the headspace before it can contribute to oxygenation of the beer [Hermann 2005], because of that the head space should be purged as well."

There's a link to source on Kaiser's wiki, but it doesn't seem to be working at the moment, and I wasn't able to pull it up with a Google search.  Also, I think it is probably in German.  Below is the reference from Kaiser's site:

M. Hermann, Entstehung und Beeinflussung qualitätsbestimmender Aromastoffe bei der Herstellung von Weißbier, Dissertation, Technical University Munich, 2005


522
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Help Me Root a CO2 Leak
« on: January 30, 2015, 10:40:15 AM »
The beverage side gauge also drops from 10 PSI to 0 PSI, when pressurized and the tank off, whether or not the line check valve is opened or closed. The little valve under the regulator body, the feed to the manifold.

Perhaps I misunderstood, but I thought you said in your initial post that the low pressure gauge stayed constant when the valve under the regulator body was closed and the tank was turned off?

If your gauges are going down when the valve under the regulator body is closed and the tank is turned off, the leak is either in the regulator or between the regulator and the tank.

Perhaps gas is escaping from the quick disconnect, as if the seals were bad. I just greased them up.

How can I test for a leak while the QD is attached to the keg post?

I thought up a way to test for a leak between the gas disconnect and the keg post (if my logic is flawed, someone please let me know).  Hook a line up to a keg and turn everything on; close the check valve at the bottom of the regulator and turn the gas off; wait until the low pressure gauge drops to zero; quickly remove the gas disconnect from the keg; check for remaining pressure in the line by pressing the valve in the gas disconnect with your finger while holding it up to your ear to listen for gas escaping; if there's gas still in the line there is no leak between the disconnect and the keg post; if there is no gas in the line that would indicate a leak (unless you weren't able to remove the disconnect quickly enough and the gas escaped while you were doing so).

Here's my thought process, with no new gas able to enter the line, it would all leak out if there was a leak between the disconnect and the gas post.  However, if the reason the gauge is dropping to zero is because the beer in the keg is absorbing some of the gas, there would still be equilibrium in pressure between the keg and the line, and there would still be some gas in the line.

I guess another way would to be hook everything up, turn everything on, and submerge the keg completely under water while watching for bubbles.



523
All Grain Brewing / Re: Martin B. is the man!
« on: January 29, 2015, 08:13:30 PM »
Figure 13 was the most interesting to me as it showed that LD is still active at higher mash pHs.  I also think figure 14 is pretty useful.

I never saw the point of performing an iodine conversion test.

524
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Help Me Root a CO2 Leak
« on: January 29, 2015, 05:11:53 PM »
Is it possible that:

1) There is no leak, and you just got a low fill on your last tank; or

2) The fact that the low pressure gauge is dropping when you have a keg connected is because the beer in the keg is absorbing some of the CO2, and if there is a leak, it's either between the regulator and the gas cylinder or somewhere in the regulator itself?

That said, the fact that the low pressure gauge stays at 10 for at least 3 days when the gas out line is closed, the regulator is pressurized, and the gas is turned off makes me think there is no leak between the reg and the cylinder or in the reg itself.


525
Kegging and Bottling / Re: Help Me Root a CO2 Leak
« on: January 29, 2015, 03:08:27 PM »
You didn't mention it, but I'm assuming you had a tank empty faster than usual?  How much faster?

With the gas line check valve closed, line charged, and the tank off – the beverage side reads 10 PSI for approximately 3 days

Do you mean that after 3 days the low pressure gauge dropped to zero or that after 3 days it was still at 10 psi so you stopped that part of the experiment?

I have rotated through the three kegs, using a different gas line each time. With the line charged and tank off, the beverage side gauge reads 10 PSI for < 10 hours. Regardless if I use line 1, 2, or 3, attached to any of the kegs, the beverage side gauge will zero out after a few hours.

Are these kegs empty when you're testing them or are they full of beer?

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