« on: June 04, 2013, 09:38:56 PM »
Best bet would probably be to join a club and bring your beer to meeting for evaluation. But if you're out in Klickitat county, not too much out there eh? Maybe in Hood River or The Dalles?
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My Complicated Blonde that I got to brew at a local brewpub just got kegged last night and is carbing comfortably. I wanted to do a batch on my home system to see how it translates. Seems a bit darker at this point. Split the batch between WL001 and WY1450 to compare.
This weekend I'll start the first round of dry hopping for my Backyard IPA which is made from 100% of the hops grown in our backyard last summer. It's basically the Pliny Clone grain/hop bill with my hops subbed in. I used Willamette, Mt. Hood, CTZ and Cascade. Can't wait to try it!
I grew a wild hair on this batch and decided to pitch half of the wort with WY3787.
I cannot figure out how to update the “Actual FG” on a brewing session.
too much copper is not good for you and in a low pH environment like beer there will be a significant amount of leachingThanks for that info. A little reading and i'm getting that copper scrubby out of my beer!
I wouldn't use copper in finished beer, but a stainless steel scrubby would work well.I had this problem a couple batches ago. ended up attaching the bottom of a metal tea ball to the end of the dip tube with a piece of grain bag and a rubber band. the tea ball held the bag away from the end of the tube enough that it didn't just clog up immedietly. worked fairly well.
In the absence of a surescreen or a tea ball, a copper scrubby rubberbanded to the dip tube works well as a screen for whole hops. Not sure if this would solve your pellet hop escape problem.
I had this problem a couple batches ago. ended up attaching the bottom of a metal tea ball to the end of the dip tube with a piece of grain bag and a rubber band. the tea ball held the bag away from the end of the tube enough that it didn't just clog up immedietly. worked fairly well.
Just curious as to how much benefit you get from the yeast nutrient addition. I have not done this yet and after my current porter batch blowing through the fermentation lock 4 times in the last 3 days, I wonder if I need to ever add yeast nutrient. Current wort temp is 64 degrees so it is not over heating. I do make a 2.5L starter of about 1.040 SG, give it a swirl everytime I go by and have always had good fermentation starting within 12 hours.My understanding is that adding the nutrient is more about assuring yeast health in the case that you want to harvest the slurry for re-use, than it is about getting a good fermentation in the beer you add it to. I think for normal gravity beers (~1.060 or lower) you can get away just fine for that beer without any nutrient, but if you want to harvest that yeast then nutrient is a good idea. For big beers, nutrient may be a good idea whether or not you are going to harvest the yeast.